I bought a roadster a couple years ago that has been in the corner while I collected parts. It had a cheap Chinese dropped axle under it and I had bought an original dropped an axle to put under it. I put it in and it looks to have too much camber. Do I have mis matched spindles to this axle? Was it dropped wrong? Did I ***emble something wrong?
Might the kingpin inclination have been altered to work with different spindles when the axle was dropped? E.g. '49-'54 Chevy spindles have a much smaller KPI angle, so if the axle was set up for those and you put Ford spindles on it, you'd get about the camber you've got.
There is probably a shop not too far from you that does big truck frame repairs. They would have the tools and experience to adjust that axle.
I have a bunch of 49-51 Chevy cars and parts cars. What is the simplest fix if that’s correct? Changing to Chevy spindles might open another can of worms. Can this axle be tweaked enough to get the camber right?
You need to check the scrub point, where the king pin centre line intersects the ground should be in the centre of the tire contact patch. It doesn't look that bad really. The angles all have to work together. My RPU looks very similar (both sides are the same) , the axle is so cal speed shop forged item with 48 spindles. JW
Hi Neighbor! That is a pretty easy camber correction for any truck alignment shop with the right tooling, and experienced tech. Both Hunter and Beeline supply the kits, if the shop bought it with their rack. When I did that work, we took most of the positive camber out, leaving zero on the right, 1/2* + on the left..
Just a bit pick but an important detail before you speak to a shop about fixing it. You have too much POSITIVE camber, camber should be relayed in terms of positive (top of the wheel out) and negative (top of the wheel in)
There is an axle dropper that has a history of excess camber drops. I've had a couple, corrected that in a press.
With a bit of enginuity, tools and determination it can be fixed at home. I set this up to correct the issue on the dropped Ford axle in the '38 cabriolet.
At what point on the axle would force be applied? Would you try to bend right where it was stretched?
No. If it’s 3.7* + on both sides, you would hold it down in the center, or between the spring perches equal distance.. A single hold down in the center may give it too much of a sharp bend,to be esthetically pleasing. That would be the fastest and cheapest in a shop, and take less push force. It COULD be corrected where it’s bent with the hold down between the perch and the bend, but it would be hard to push up the end. That might be better done in a press. @anothercarguy has it right with his hold down and pushing up on the bare axle end. Great setup!