Hot Rods 4 Post vs 2 Post

@panhead_pete Those scissor jacks are great for body work and servicing the 4 corners, suspension and brakes. They are useless for stacked storage and any center car fluids, trans, exhaust.
Again, tool for the job. The one @anthony myrick posted has the arms with tilt up lift points, which are very useful on something like your 34. The garage grade ones that are just flat would be tough. Most are at least 4 inches tall, so depending on how low you are, that could be a no-go, too. Also, he's always got something on it. Otherwise, it's taking up floor space if you don't have something that will drive on and off easily and is a trip hazard.

 

Low?
A couple 2x6s handle that.
Had one car I had to double stack em to get off the lift.

 

This is an age old debate over on the Garage Journal. It sets pretty heated over there whenever the subject comes up.

In my case, I wanted a two post, so after the lift finally rose to the top of the surplus funds expenditure list, I bought a BendPac 10 k ***ymetric two post lift. If I had bought it twenty years earlier it would have been a good choice. Unfortunately, by the time I got it, my eyes and especially my knees found it not very user friendly. Particularly my knees, as I have to get down on them several times to correctly position the arms and pads. Even then I dropped a truck about a foot when the pad slipped off the spring perch.

Part of the reason was that with bifocals, it’s hard to see exactly where the pad is located while standing on your head peering under the car.

I also likely will eventually get a subdural hematoma from banging my noggin on the lift arms when under the car.

Hint: wear a soft welder’s hat instead of a baseball cap with the steel knob in the center.

Later I bought two Advantage four post lifts after I sold a lakefront house a couple of lots down from us. I had bought it out of a foreclosure sale as a retirement project, and coincidentally (wink wink) it had an oversized garage that I could store cars in. I finished the project eventually and decided I didn’t want to be a landlord.

Losing the storage meant I either had to dispose of a couple projects, build an addition to my shop or another building on that lot, or add a couple of four post lifts. The lifts were the best option.

I ended up with an 11 k that would accept my dually, and a 9 k for everything else. I can store four cars in the space of two.

The lifts came with jack trays, drip pans (simple but effective), aluminum approach ramps (essential if you’re an old wimp like me with a bad back).

I opted to buy a rolling air operated bridge jack for the larger lift. The jack trays with a bottle jack are sufficient for light cars, and a small aluminum “racing jack” can easily be used to lift the car for wheel or break work. ( I actually forgot to use the bridge jack when I changed wheels and tires on the ot muscle car).

The four post is better for body and much ch***is work, as the ramps make ideal tool rests and the posts and arms of a two post aren’t in the way. I did rockers on my truck with the two post, and it was nearly impossible to access the middle part of the cab.

My recommendation? Depends on your age and the work you are going to perform. Wheels and tires are a toss up, engine work, probably two post. Body, definitely four post.

Storage definitely four post.

If I had to pick one at this stage it would be the 9k four post. If I was simply storing a light hot rod, I would go smaller, but still a four post. If I was 21 again, a two post.

 

I agree that someone like yourself who has daily interaction with them and lots of different cars each week can spot and address that quickly. I used to be that too.
However, if you are only driving one or two cars, don't have any experience with these things and don't have a couple buddies who can spot for you on each side, it's a much more likely thing to catch something you didn't even know was hanging down. It shouldn't happen and probably won't. Worst is probably a bit of catching as it goes over the edge break.Just as it might on a 4-post with the short ramps.
That's another extra tool that can be a requirement for either 2 or 4 or scissor; a pair or 4 mini wood ramps of 2x6. Like these, but may not need the end stop.

 

I wish I had both but I'm going on 20 years on my Rotary 2 post lift, and I still love it. I have de-bodied (de-framed?) 11 cars and trucks in that time working alone and put most of those on the rotisserie. Couldn't be done with a 4 post lift, or no lift for that matter. The engine comes out of my roadster from the bottom, which also requires the 2 post and that has happened 4 times and counting. Without a doubt the best tool I have ever purchased. I do have 12-foot ceilings and high lift doors and had the floor poured 6" thick with rebar and mesh for the asymmetrical lift.

Still would like to add a 4 post. And a scissor jack, that would make car painting easier. But I would need to cut the floor so it sits flush, my cars would never clear it.

I suppose it comes down to what you intend to do with it.

 

I am thinking of getting some gl***es with the bifocal in the upper part of a pair for working under the lift.

 

I'm lucky, my shop is too short for a full height lift. So I've been looking at quickjacks and now the mid rise scissor lifts. I still do ok with a floor jack and stands, but then I'm only 65, but getting old fast.

The main problem is having a few late model cars, which don't have much under them for floor jacks to get ahold of. The old cars are still no problem.

I got a pair of gl***es that is for using with the computer, it has single prescription for seeing things about 20" away. Might work for that?

 

Jim that may be the best bet could still look down at the cart and find the tool your looking for.

 

Knew a man with an HVAC company who bought safety gl***es like that for his duct installers.

 

I do have some safety gl***es I cut and fitted some reader liens in that I use when welding and closeup work. They would probably work also.

 

I got a pair of reader safety gl***es at walmart not long ago for about ten bucks...they're getting common these days

 

I have to have the extra help over my normal bifocals. I'm basically blind without gl***es and readers only doesn't work for me.

 

The ones with Bifocals
Look into Progressive lenses
No Lines / break in lenses
As you rotate eye's down ward more magnification,

Lift , I typically have/ work on
A's & 32 so I marker the floor
To line up center of the spindle
& lines on floor keeping tire's on & center to drive or push car in between
Post .
I also made 6 inch Extensions to lift higher , but that also requires use of
12 race block , I raise car on lift then drop on race block add Extensions the raise of blocks ..

On my 2 post I also use to pull engine's
& a work bench

 

Thanks and great idea re marking out lines on the floor!

 

Yep, I used to need to use a pair of those for work, when sitting infront of a ****** computer for 8 hrs a day in an office environment, which they were excellent for, and now being retired, I've found that they are now perfect for working on the car, or under it, for the very same reason....and much better than my normal 'everyday' varifocal gl***es, where you are chasing the small focus area all the time, especially when lying down under the car.

 

In all honesty, I don’t have nearly the issues with my eyes not working well for spotting the arms under the car since I had my cataract surgery and they equipped my eyes with some sort of fancy new lenses. Still not great when standing on your head trying to spot those arms, though.

I’ve had progressive lenses forever it seems, and they don’t help in this situation. I find myself working without gl***es occasionally now, which, in my opinion is a dangerous habit to get into, given the number of times I’ve had to get rust removed from my eyes over the years.

Side shields or wrap around when in the shop for me, but there are lapses….

 

For the marking out lines, a center stripe on the floor and on the car trailer are useful even for when you have a new helper. Lots of shops have used the big convex mirrors at the back of the stall too, so you can see things from inside.
I've thought of even having lines on the trailer colored for width from center. If you have some regulars, even color match. White for the narrow T speedster and Maroon for the wider 40, for example.


Gl***es are an issue, mainly sideways and upside down work. It certainly is compounded by hot days with sweat!

 

I went with a 4 post for a few reasons.

I like that it is freestanding, doesn’t need to be bolted down and I can move it around if need be, which I’ll be doing soon.

I can store a project car on top indefinitely while pulling the runner underneath and through to the back of the shop. It’s not a good idea to store a car on a 2 post with the lift arms and the suspension flexed down long term.

I can add lift jacks for brake & suspension work, which I have but I haven’t installed yet.

My ceiling is 16’ minus the rafters.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

The issue doing brake or wheel swaps on a 4 post are solved with an air operated bridge. I have one on my 4 post Advantage lift, and a rolling tray that a bottle or floor jack will fit on. The best would be to have 2 air bridges to be able to lift both ends of the car at the same time.

 

@BJR true! They have the added advantage of a flat work space to lay out parts and tools like doing it on the floor on stands. Messy when spraying down the parts though, even with a catch pan. On a 2 post, I always had a cart nearby for that.
Also, working with the shoe retaining springs at chest height versus on the ground can require a bit more strength. You may not notice it on a single job, but if you do a half dozen in a day, it can wear you down a bit. Same with lifting the wheels and tires.
It really does come down to user and what they want to accomplish.

 

4 post all the way. I bought a Direct lift 4 post. For a lot of the same reasons all ready listed. Mine came with caster wheels that when lowered without a car on it can be rolled any where in the garage with ease. The rollers can be seen in the back ground of one of the pictures I posted. It also came with a jack tray that fits between the rails so you can place a jack in it and lift the car up on the lift. It also has plastic drip trays that can be placed between the rails. When I bought it I planned to go pick it up 500 miles from home with a car trailer till I saw how big the shipping box was. I paid to have it shipped to a local shipping depot which cost me 400 dollars then had a local flat bed towing company deliver it to my garage for another 100 bucks. I thought I was just going to just use it for storage but turns out not laying on my back to work on a car seemed to be more of a plus.

 

I bought my 4 poster at 70 y.o. because I was having trouble getting on the floor and rolling around under the hot rods. I was damned if I was going to buy a lift and then have to get on the floor and roll around setting, then readjusting the arms, yada, yada to lift the car up. I open the shop door and roll right onto the lift, push the ****on, and up the car goes. No rolling around on the floor.
My second point was that I have a model T coupe, full fendered, splash aprons and running boards. The frame is a long way up above all that and would be a real PITA to get the arms and spacers in place.
The expensive rolling jacks make it easy to get the wheels up off the lift for brake work. But I came up with my own cheaper way of doing that.
My ceiling is only 9'. The Model T is the tallest car. I can raise it enough to be able to use a rolling stool to work comfortably under it with headroom. I haven't found anything I couldn't do on the 4 post that a 2 post would have helped. I have built 2 cars on it.

 

I went with a big 4 post and 11ft ceilings. If I did it over again, would go 12 ft or more on ceiling height.

 

If given the choice between the 2 and I had the room……. I’d choose a 4 post. And bolted to the floor. If spending someone else’s $$$ I’d spring for the rolling jacks on that 4 post.
ot build a crossbar with a good air bag jack
My knees hurt
Minimum of 12ft height for the lift area.

 

I considered both, bought a 4 post, and have never once regretted not going with the 2 post. Of course, your needs may be different from mine but for my needs I think the 4 post has more versatility.

 

I have both.

While I have a 12-foot ceiling, I cannot use a clear floor 2-post lift, because I have a sprinkler system hanging below.

Threading one through and into a rafter cavity would have required putting it where it was not optimal, and would have required removing bracing (there are two floors above).

I had to go with a floor plate lift:


These do not go as high, but then again, I can't without hitting pipes.

Some gripe that the floor plate interferes with moving stuff (I just go around), and that you cannot put jacks/stands/etc. right in the center (I just adjust the arms and move the vehicle).

 

One caveat: insurance.

I don't know if this applies in the case of the OP, but it might for anyone that has a commercial operation.

My insurance agent cautioned me that if I installed lifts that were not ALI certified, any accident/incident involving a lift would not be covered. I was also cautioned that I needed to have, and retain the engineering specifications for the floor, in the case of the 2-post lift.

 

I would also bolt a four post to the ground. I know many people say you don't have to but the piece of mind would be worth the effort for me. I can tend to get rough working under a car and would just feel safer.

 

Another great benefit of the 4 post is when you have to work under the dashboard. Simply raise it up to a comfortable height and lean in. No more crawling and contorting.

 

I’ll sum up the consensus.


Survey says:

Build a larger shop and get one of each.

Dang, I’m good at spending other folks $$!!