Nice wheels my '35 died one day going down the road to a photo shoot for pictures in a builders magazine we were going to park it in front of an old looking custom garage we had just finished building ? Didn't make it there cuz it had the junk *** Mallory electronic ignition installed, ended up with pertronic and boom it was all better but missed the magazine it woulda been cool. The whole pertronics kit was cheaper than just a module for the Mallory.
I ran a Mallory Unilite in my old Sedan Deliv. for 12 years with no issues. I always carried an extra cap, rotor and modual....but never had to use any of them.
@Ed95 let me know when you're ready to finish the top chop. I have some s**** copper backing plates that'll allow you to crank up the voltage and get better penetration without blowing holes in the sheetmetal. That plus the hammer & dolly work and shrinking disc should produce nice results.
When are you around? I’ll be busy this weekend i think maybe free on sunday but should be around any other day. Here’s where I’m at with it. I tacked most of it. Feels pretty solid but definitely need more hammering to do and its doing the thing you said where it pops in and out haha
Just tested my coil with the jumper wire trick. Basically u disconnect the distributors negative connection to the coil so its standalone and turn ignition on. U can then jump the coil’s negative to ground. When you remove the jumper wire the coil sparks. So it definitely fried my unilite module from the distributor I have the original distributor with points still, but spent a lot of money on the unilite distributor… i think my mistake is unilite recommends using their surge protector to keep the module safe from voltage spikes. I was a cheapo and chose to save some money but ugh i’ll debate wether go back to points or replace the module and protect it this time. I do notice it sparks way stronger with the unilite, the points sounds tired when firing up. So I like that, plus being able to adjust the curve with the springs is pretty cool.
You're splitting hairs on voltage loss through points vs. unilite. You can buy hotter coils if you really think you need that. If you're talking about a stock distributor and the points they have, those 8ba distributors are junk. A dual-point mechanical advance (or vacuum adv.) is plenty reliable. Arguably more reliable than the Unilite at this point as you got how many miles out of that unit? They used single and dual points for decades before magnetic/laser signal distributors became a thing. Points do wear (especially if you leave the key on and they are in contact), but the amount of use you will use your truck will be so insignificant that you could literally drive for years on a set of points. I have had more issues with condensers recently than with points. Dual points help control the spark at high RPMs, like higher than your flatty is ever going to turn. And, for the record, you can swap springs in the advance mechanism of all Mallory distributors. Yes, voltage spikes are what kill the modules. Either get the safety (as you now know) or swap to Pertronix. Happy Hot Rodding! 3blap.
Just got the 605 module from mallory and the guard protector. Installed everything and tested spark. Looks good. Hit the start ****on and she lives again. I’m out $200 or so again but I hope this time with the guard protector I’m able to squeeze a few years out of the unilite. Any ideas where to mount the guard protector? I was thinking either extending the wires to the firewall but idk if it increases resistance to a point that affects the voltage or weld a small plate to the coil bracket and mount it next to the coil somewhere Next, I will install the new harness since I have a mess of wires. Thinking I’ll use some of the extra circuits for a car charger, but well hidden of course
Washington blue and black are never wrong. But i kinda like that burgundy/maroon color with the red wheels & whitewalls. The red & green looks too Christmas-ish.
I powder coated the wheels red so those are staying. Just trying to find the correct match to these wheels. I like the Washington blue or black. The maroon is cool but idk if it fits the wheels
@Just Gary was. Kind enough to come help me figure out the roof. He had a good system and we managed to straighten it up pretty decent. I kept welding a bit from the inside of the cab. Seems like thats doing the trick. Also finished the shocks
Finished smoothing the pillars. I didn’t get a before pic but the bottom was thicker than the top. I drew it in the last picture. And also cut up the windshield frame… had to slice the corners to make it fit good but getting there
As of last night i am the proud owner of an original 1935-1936 ford temp gauge sensor. It’s crazy how much these things go for… I’ve been hunting for one for about a year. I will fit it to my temp gauge and smile every time i look at it move
Not sure if this is how the windshield was ***embled originally but its how mine was before i cut it up so i just redid it that way. Made the guides and welded them on lower side and made holes on the other side to screw it in. then just welded the corners that I had sliced. Looks pretty good to me Im debating between paint on this. Im gonna probably just clear coat it for now a satin finish. I think eventually i will do that to the whole truck. One day maybe ill paint it nice but i like the rough look on it
Had to declutter the garage a bit—it was getting hard to even walk around. But man… she’s got one good-looking rear end. hopefully i get gl*** soon and can move it around easier
The roof has been the hardest thing so far to get straight. @Just Gary came over to help. He let me borrow his shrinking disc and helped me try to shrink the highs, but i think it just needed more hammer dolly work. So i rethought this a little bit. The dolly was just too small and didn’t have enough force when i hammered. So I grabbed a 6x6x2ft heavy piece of wood and put it on the roof. I held it from the top to make sure it didnt bounce too much. Located the real lows and hammered away from the bottom. It was like seeing magic in real life. The roof slowly came back to a beautiful crown. There’s some hammer marks to remove now but the overall shape is done I think
The roof looks awesome. Glad you figured it out. Well done! Beautiful- and not something anybody can order from a Summit or Speedway catalog.
Your learning curve is steep! MIG welds shrink to start with due to the rapid cooling. Consequently, the shrinking disk doesn't help. It probably didn't do anything to be honest. Hammer & dollying stretches metals, but MIG welds are so damn hard, they're almost impossible to stretch without them cracking again, if you can get movement out of them at all. If you grind them down as much as possible on both sides, that's your best bet to get the metal to work in your favor. Those hammer dents, the shrinking disk will work on them. Good luck! 3blap.
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