For those running Hurst or similar front mounts on a SBC with an auto ****** (T350 etc etc etc) how have you done the mid mount for the transmission near the bell housing. Ive done a bit of a search but struggled to see how its been done. Kind of keen for this not to be a discussion if its needed or not...
Just asking why mid mount ? Most time mid mount is solid with solid front , You could mid mount with small biscuits on each side with front rubber. most time front mount & mid is for Pulling Engine or Trains ,leaving one or other in place. Stiffing ch***is in away, Creating room along side of engine. You could also side mount & mid
Copy something like this for your application. https://www.cl***icindustries.com/p...NpTPFfrkp7pfpVuvt1cMrtNBxFz-zW_PB3CMVdeSpc1DS
I think the first reply blew that wish away Modern race car folks use a mid plate, between block and bellhousing, plus a spacer for the torque converter pilot and pads. Tri-5 guys use the Danchuck mid mount adapter, which is a kluge, but apparently works. You'd use just the part that bolts to the two bellhousing bolts, and make your own piece to support it from the frame. This image shows the parts for one side. But you could copy the concept, with a design that fits in the car better. One thing I noticed, having a 1962 Corvette, is that Chevy put aluminum powerglides in them, with the engine supported at the front/top (by the water pump bolts) and the transmission supported at the rear by the crossmember, and they seemed to work OK. Maybe the Hurst mount is close enough to that configuration that it might work? The 55-57 front mounts are wobbly, so you need to have support at the bellhousing to keep it from wiggling around, but with the Hurst mount, it could be OK. Unless there's some reason you want to add the mounts at the side, which is likely, since you don't want to discuss why you do
I ran a Hurst style front mount on the SBC with TH400 in my roadster and NO mid-mount for 30 years . It’s still going in NH as far as I know. Could be that the Hurst style and a relatively light car with a rigid frame contributed to its longevity.
Also, the SBC with an aluminum transmission is probably one of the lightest V8/auto combinations you can find. Like Squirrel said, early Corvettes got away with just front and rear mounts for years and throughout the 60s and 70s we used Hurst mounts on Chevy engines without giving it a thought. Somewhere along the line someone must have had an aluminum bell housing crack and word got around that you must use a mid-mount if you don’t use the factory side motor mounts and we all kinda just accepted it as sound engineering. If you prefer to have mid-mounts, I think those 55-57 Chevy mounts are available or you could make your own using the two bell housing bolts next to the dowel pins on each side. if you’re using a ****tershield or a cast iron bell housing it’s probably a waste of time. If you’re using an aluminum bell housing or an aluminum case automatic add the mid-mounts if it gives you peace of mind. Can’t hurt.
I have a Hurst front mount and T400 in my heap. Because of the trans length, I used slightly modified Danchuck mid mounts to help stabilize things. So far, it's working fine.
Here's a neat setup for a TH400. Eric Vaughn had a bellhousing at the Fathers Day Swap that I noticed. I ended up buying the whole unit for a killer deal. He wanted $60 for the bellhousing, which was a heck of a lot better than the one on ebay for $400+.
Ford used a front mount on the trucks and thunderbirds. Trucks had ears on the bellhousing, birds used “steady rest “ rods off the side of the block. They really didn’t support much weight, just prevented rocking under load. Personally I think you’ll be fine with the wider Hurst mounts. A Yblock was a lot more weight and a longer distance with either a Fordo or a T-85 o/d than you’re dealing with. I can send pictures of the bird set up if you’re curious.
Jim, on a simular past thread (several years now?) you mentioned that Chevy had used support rods of some sort that tied to the underside of engine then to the underside of trans on I believe 4x4’s? If you remember mentioning anything that is remotely to what I’m mentioning, can you clearify this and maybe source pictures as well?
Unless you plan slicks and a wild convertor I'm not sure you need it. Sure, we all do this cuz hot rods. Somewhere between just adding a bigger engine and balls out racing the majority of those out there do just fine without. If there's a genuine concern based on proposed use... This is only .090 thick, no real need for spacers, maybe a washer between the convertor bolts and flywheel at the most. From here being flat steel some simple tabs to carry it, but those should sit on similar biscuits to the fronts or at least some rubber blocks to the frame where some brackets bolt on. If not the vibes will rattle your dental work out.
That’s sounding more like it! As Jim but it, it took away stress on the bellhousing when hanging an auto trans like what this thread is about.
Those year's still had a rear trains mount. A few yrs ago I broke a bell on stock th350 case all the way around First trains bell I broken I do not know just old case or 4,800 converter & 315's Side mount & rear .
Here’s what I did. It’s a quarter inch thick aluminum plate that attaches to the frame and a tube support structure inside the body. I am using side mounts, however I could have used a Hurst saddle mount if it wasn’t too crowded with parts where it would attach to the frame. Here’s a picture of the setup in the car. I will be using a spacer kit for the torque converter.
this is the other part on the 70s-80s 4x4 setup, went between the block and motor mount, the rod connected the 4th bolt hole to the dust cover.
Thanks all. There are already a few threads covering the need for the mid mounts or not, consensus seemed to be they would be a good idea, with a few thinking they arent needed.
It all boils down to what parts you use and what you intend to do with the car like so many of the questions posted here. Most cruisin’ hot rods will be fine but your wheel standing drag car or off road racer will probably break an old aluminum case eventually so build accordingly. I like that TH400 that Redo32 bought, good deal. Those struts that Chevy used on the 4x4 trucks were another obstacle when designing and/or installing headers, especially since the headers had to fit multiple applications but we always kept them in place.
If its for the car in your pic, forget it. Again tho, unless its pounding out over 400HP and gonna be launched hard with traction? A 'what if' you needn't worry about. Hell, regular street tires will be your best safety net... 10s of thousands without been running for decades. I'd bet a coffee there's a notable measure of 4spds without as well, although I'd likely want mids in a stick car (I've seen me do it).
What about circle track style mid-mount "batwings"? Speedway Steel Engine Side-Mount Rear Motor Mounts, Fits Chevy Small/Big Block | eBay
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