Technical Lets build a 327 to make 400hp

Actually that jogs my memory. The machine shop squared the block and I asked about the mains and he said they were real good and he had just touched them with a hone. he also said it took .003/4 to clean the deck; so I figured he should take .015 more instead of .020. Moral is : I should have had him check it since he had all the pieces by then.

To the OP; figure in the small stuff on those heads. 1. screw in studs 2. guides or guide liners 3. best valves you can afford 4. springs and good seals 5. if the valve seats are very deep you can install new seats that will reduce chamber volume a little. Also you can do some gasket matching on your manifold and heads and maybe some bowl work. Do some reading and some of this stuff just takes patience and time.

 

I think it all takes patience and time. LOL

If you are willing to play with it you can juggle rods around to get the pistons to come out as even as possible before cutting the decks. Or you can measure the rod centers and see how close they are to correct, sometimes you have to bush them to get them closer to the correct length.

You can play with all the journals to get the clearances spot on, you can CC combustion chambers, and the list is never ending.


Most of the time with just a little care it will be more than close enough.

 

Had a Pro st Vega in the 80s, 327+.30 10 to 1 comp,461 202 Fuelies,480 lift hyd cam,Victor Jr w/750 dp,Turbo 400 and 538 gears it was fun on the street!

 

Well in my opinion if your going to put any type of performance / lopey idle camshaft in any small block, you need to look at a minimum of pinning the studs, screw in studs preferably, and a set of roller tip rockers just to cut down on the friction cause you know your going to rev it up at least once in a while right? And I hate getting caught with my pants down and pulling a stud, or losing / bending a pushrod, It just gets worse from there. A little insurance goes a long way with me.

 

I have 93 octane here. I run it in my daily(due to turbo car) I run it in my truck with a 355. Still looking for opinions on the cam Isky recommended. I appreciate the other suggestions updating the post. Thx

 

Call Bullet Racing Cams at (662)893-5670
link here: http://www.bulletcams.com/

This is all we use in all the engines we build, their profiles and designs flat spank everything else we have replaced or tried.

 

I still like Isky cams. I don't have the specs but the old Isky revmaster solid cam was a great stick shift cam, as was the 505 cam. And I would never go past .030 on a 327 block without a sonic check. JMO Lippy

 

the local engine builder that does 100's of hp engines a year did my 327 several years ago
it is .030 over 11.5 forged pistons 462 heads with 2.02 valves, ported, hyd cam, dynode with 2 intakes
scorpion intake max hp was 389, with l79 factory intake it was 416, that's with racing fuel

 

I just finished one for the Produce truck.

A quick overview:
327 .040 over flat top forged pistons
**** 5.7 capscrew rods
Bottom end all balanced
decked it .015"
Vortec 64cc heads 1.94/1.50
Small Howards Hydraulic Roller Cam
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-cl110235-10/overview/
1.5:1 Long Slot rocker arms
Guide Plates
Edelbrock RPM intake and an Edelbrock AVS Thunder 650 CFM Carburetor
Pertronix HEI, Small cap
In front of a 2004-R running a 3.55 rear gear with a 29" tall tire.
Should be very streetable, plus will make for a good tow vehicle for the Fly.

 

There is a good article on the 327 in May ‘94 Custom Rodder. Rebuilt mine with that and it has been great ever since.

 

Good bump, old thread, no matter, 327's rule!

 

Old post^^, old thread, 400 hp is easy money. This is from May 1970

 

YES on the Isky Cam....
I learned when having my cam ground that 108* LSA gives it the idle you want. Any more and you could run into 'issues' with adaquate vacuum for brakes(if you go with power brakes)
If you have add 6 or 8 degrees more duration on the exhaust side it gives you that DEEP thump sound when idling and helps offset the exhaust restrictions of mufflers and pipes.
With 232* intake and 232+6* exhaust duration you shouldn't have any issues running 11:1 CR using a manual ****** to avoid 'lugging' the engine at around town speeds.
I like to run engine temps around 160 degrees to help keep the engine temps down. Big radiator is a must!
Do you know you can have a camshaft CUSTOM GROUND with your specs for the same price (or less) than off-t******lf sticks?! Think Howards...Delta...and others.
Most guys get about 6* advance ground into their camshafts OR get them straight-up and then get an adjustable crank gear and advance it that way. By adjusting the cam timing either advance OR retard can calm a radical cam down or boost up a too mild cam. With you light weight vehicle a snotty cam with 6 or8 degrees advance will be a hoot to drive! You may experience 'the light switch effect with extra advance and a tight LSA of 108*' Power on BOOM like flipping a lightswitch (6000RPM or so)....Plan on tailoring your ignition for A LOT of advance to come in quick. 36*-42* total advance all in by 1500 RPM or so. (don't worry about "how much initial advance should I run"?!! duh) Using a timing tape or calibrated dampner with (light springs) and a timing light will get you right where you need to be.
Keep us in the loop ! Sounds like a rocket when you finish it....
6sally6

 

Cool old thread
All I can say is the Grumps 331 was killer I have no idea how much HP it made! I dreamed of having a clone on the street.
Dan

 

I wonder how this project has progressed?

 

Here's a Sunday Funny!

 

He had a thread on the car here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-can-find-old-indiana-model-a-hotrod.1046683/

This is the motor in 2018 fresh out of Ross Racing.

 

Looked like he had a real nice build going in 2018. Have to wonder what happened.

 

This the backup engine for my son’s 1/2 mile dirt Super Stock at Perris Auto speedway. He normally uses his Dart block based 422”. We are mandated iron block, iron heads, cast iron flat tappet cam, any single 4 barrel and MSD 6A ingnition.
The photo is my engine for him to use if needed meeting all the same rules. It’s 356”, Chevrolet block, RHS 215 iron heads, Callis 3.480 stroke crank and rods, custom Comp Cam, a Chinese knock off single plane intake from Compe***ion Parts. The carb is the only part that’s his, a Shawn Murphy 750 Holley. The dyno sheet follows. Check the hp @ 6000. This on Richard Cattons dyno in Huntington Beach. They say a true Z28 will dyno 400 hp I believe it.

 

I don't know where you are, but I was shocked at the prices when I was looking for a 3 speed to run in my altered. I was lucky to find a guy who thought what I was building was cool and sold me one for $75. I found that asking prices were around $350. When I was a kid they were throwaways.

 

Nice package,do you have the cam specs, is it a special grind or catalogue brand.

 

Yeah, I can remember getting $50.00 for one, and that was because the buyer was desperate; it was his only mode of transportation and he was on foot until he fixed it.

 

I gave away the three speed out of my 67 Nova when swapping in a Muncie.

 

I built a 383 with AFR 190 Street heads and a custom hydraulic roller cam. Makes 515 HP at 6300 rpm (6500 is the rev limit with that cam). I'm sure with a bigger set of heads it would be over 550. That is with an Eddy RPM Air-Gap manifold and an 830 QuikFuel carb.

Pretty amazing what you can obtain with good quality parts these days. Back in the day, it was not all that easy to get over 500 HP with a Big Block unless you put quite a bit of work into it.

 

Yes I do I believe a special grind. I purchased this engine from an IMCA modified owner after he wrecked the car in June of 2017 for the paltry sum of $3200, an absolute steal.
I called Comp Cam after reading the specs…they actually told me who bought it and to never run it on a less than a 1/2 mile track. I don’t think there were problems with cast flat tappet cams or lifters at this time. If we ever use it I would install T&D sportsman rockers. We have a set on our 422”.

 

Could you post a picture of the cam card with the part number?

 

Sent PM

 

Isn't thread about 327 CID & maybe bored .030 over ?

 

In the end, the HP potential of a 327 would be driven by the top-end and cam technology selected. I can imagine making 425+ HP with a set of AFR heads, a hydraulic roller cam and about a 750 or so carb. Today's aftermarket heads are the big key.

 

I just had a 327 small journal built and came here to see what a guy wrote about modifying the tomato can.
It's built with a rotating ***embly I got from a HAMB'er who contacted me when I mentioned I was contemplating another 327 or a 383 for my 32 roadster.
This engine has Trick Flow DHC heads and roller rockers, true 10:1 compression, a beautiful Hank the Crank stroker crankshaft, custom Bullit hydraulic flat tappet cam ground for this application...bored .030 over, it comes in at 385 cubic inches. It's getting dyno'd as soon as I get the crankcase ventilation can issue worked out and I will post the results.