Projects My GN Cycle Car tribute build

So, got the backing plate installed. Thought there was some interference as it seemed it wouldn’t sit flush against the axle flange. This was probably true, but I went a little too far using a drum sander on my drill as I thought the inside surface of the backing plate was supposed to sit flush with the locating ring on the flange. Geeze! Removed the shoes, and the drum fits, albeit with some rubbing on the backing plate. Deja vue all over again with the nightmare I had with the front axle backing plates, but this seems worse actually. At least I’m happy with the fact that the drums work on the rear axle with the backing plates. Short vid of me turning the drum by hand. The interference is enough for the whole axle to twist if it gets caught.
Next is to move the speedster back outside as far as I can based on my extension for the welder. Got to remove the rear “buggy” axle (angle iron braces are tacked to the ch***is). Then start welding things into place. I’m hoping by tonight to have the rear wheels installed. That will be another huge milestone for me. Can’t see what it will look like.







https://youtube.com/shorts/6rLJqdwcmUg?si=Ad_sME9C3Xfs85Wg

 

Got the axle welded in place. The end of the MIG gun was just a few inches too short to weld all the way around (tack weld) the axle tube on the DS. Got the frame all level and both ch***is rails within 0.3 degrees of each other. Not bad considering I’m on unlevel dirt ground. I think I calculated that the engine/trans were on a 1.5 degree slope rearwards, so tilted the rear diff so that it was up 1.5 degrees. Not sure if that’s correct, or how accurate I got the measurements, but it’s good enough for my purposes. Taking a break as it’s humid as hell out. Almost feels like rain is on the way. D’oh!

 

Can’t believe it’s “done”. Rear wheels barely turn due to rubbing on the backing plates. I guess I’m going to have to figure out a way to straighten them. Will see if the machine shop feels like doing it.

 

Looking gooder every time I see it!
Dan

 

Hey isn’t your gas tank going to cause vision problems?
Dan

 

Going to remove that stupid thing soon. Haha! Was thinking of starting it up again. My neighbour has some contractors working over at his house. lol!

 

That gas tank is true Hot Rodding 101
Dan

 

It’s from my father’s Lawnboy that he bought in the 70s. Lol!

 

Now that the speedster is back inside, I checked the angle of the ch***is. DS reads 1.1 degree, and PS reads 0.9 degrees, so there is a slight rake to it. I didn’t measure the height difference between the front and rear of the frame rails, but it’s noticeable. I would like to keep this rake at its curb weight, or maybe increase it by another degree, so when I’m in it, it only moves another 1/2” or so down.
Going to take some measurements of the distance between the trans yoke and pinion yoke which I still need install from Speedway, then will head into town and visit the driveshaft shop. Was there earlier this year or last, and IIRC., they said about $400 and 1.5 weeks to make one.

 

I guess you could call me stupid, but reading the instructions from Speedway, there is no mention of removing the original pinion gear from the original driveshaft. Am I missing something? Pretty sure there was no such thing in the box when I opened it. Damn! Thought this was just going to a simple “plug & play” affair, but I guess not.
Getting this ****** off looks like it’s going to be “interesting”. Nothing like 90 yr old grease all over your hands…

 

Got the two large nuts off. My large adjustable wrench was just large enough to fit over them.

 

I guess I got to rig up something like this now. Not sure if I have a gear puller even large enough.

 

Used this gear puller. Wasn’t budging, so heated it up with my oxy torch. She gave way with a pop. Now what’s next…

 

Got it all re-***embled with the new tapered input shaft from the Speedway kit. Interestingly, the pic of the Instructions shows an older kit I’m guessing without the input shaft. Looks like that collar was a webbed style casting vs the all machined collar in my kit.
Was a bit of a cluster because the one tapered bearings next to the pinion fell apart when I removed it. Luckily, I didn’t lose any of them. Was also a bit of cluster trying to figure out how they all went back together with the cage.
The teeth of the gear are pretty chewed up. I’m guessing a full rebuild of the axle will be required down the road.

 

Checked angles again:

Trans yoke: 89.9 degrees
Axle yoke: 88.3 degrees

Driveshaft length (distance between yoke centres:

Trans yoke fulled engaged: 17.0625”
Trans yoke moved 3/4” away from trans seal: 16.375”

Leaving soon to head to the driveshaft shop.

 

I think I recall why the seat is where it’s at. The yoke sticks out a ways from the pinion flange.

 

Dropped off the front yoke at the shop. Needs a #1330 u-joint and rear needs a #1350 u-joint. Said it would be 3-5 days and only $44. What!?

 

$44 seems awful cheap, I hope there wasn't a failure to communicate. That is a pretty small shaft maybe something industrial is about that size.

Phil

 

I asked them if that was the correct price ($43.75), and they rambled on why it was so “inexpensive”. Last time I was there, I think I spoke to the owner or partner, and he said it would be around $400. Haha! I don’t think I could buy one u-joint for $40. Maybe , it’s $444. It was a bunch of “kids” with techno dance music playing. Lol!

 

Good luck

Phil

 

Parts finally arrived from 3rd Gen for the pedal ***y. Forgot what I had ordered. Lol!

 

Forgot to mention they told me the reason the trans yoke looks so big is that it’s fitted with a damper ring around the outside. Had no clue. Highlighted in blue.

 

Removed the bronze? bushing from the clutch pedal arm. The other one came out in pcs. Had to file a “V-groove” with my triangular file into the bushing to get it to pop out with a punch.
There’s a lot a wear on the clutch side of the shaft that’s pressed into the cast brkt. This results in about a 1/8” side to side play at the top of the clutch arm. I’m hoping to reduce that with some washers once the snap ring is installed. Thought about removing the shaft and machining a new one, but that’s a project for after the speedster is finished. I need to leave something to tinker with after it’s done. Haha!

 

Wasn’t expecting that the clutch pivot shaft “ball” bushing was going to be made from plastic. Geeze!

 

Decided it’s finally time to check the gear ratio on the rear diff. Lifted the rear end, chocked the drivers side wheel, and rotated the p***enger tire one full revolution. Got two complete turns on the pinion yoke, plus another 30 degrees (30/360 =2.083). So, I figured the gear ratio was some dismal highway gear setup, but after checking with Goggle AI, it said I had to double that number, and it should be 4.11:1. Still not sure why I need to double it, even though it explained so in detail. If correct, that is perfect with the 0.68 overdrive in my Mustang T5.
The “conversation” continues with the AI, and we went into detail on quite a few things. It mentioned that since I’m going to keep the 11” clutch disc setup (flywheel is drilled for it as original clutch/pressure plate) were 11” being it was a truck engine with the 4/sp truck trans), I would need to lengthen the arm on the pedal for the clutch release by 1” to 2”. This makes a lot of sense to reduce the pedal force and potential fatigue. Interesting how it came to mention this while I’m playing around with the pedal parts.
Made a short vid of me doing the measurements to determine the gear ratio.



https://youtube.com/shorts/mMXgQdrq3sA?si=v1WtRIBIJKXH4COu

 

What started all this was that I was thinking of what’s needed for a speedo cable and lo and behold, I found this old thread of mine.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/mating-vintage-sw-speedo-gear-to-ford-t5.1312958/

Based on the diff gear ratio of 4.11:1, and the OD of the Firestone 8.20 x 15 being 29.56”, Google AI suggested a 20 tooth gear on the speedo cable. I’ll call that company next week to see if they’re still around, and if so, will see if I can order the cable.

 

If you lengthen the actuating arm on the clutch pedal, as described, you will decrease the pedal ratio which will increase the effort needed to depress the pedal.

If you meant increasing the length of the throw-out arm; that would decrease the effort; but a 50% increase in length will likely result in insufficient pedal travel to release the clutch.

 

Yes, it mentioned that increasing the length would increase the travel. Everything is a compromise, at the moment, the arm seems to be about just over 2” in length centre to centre (of the outer most hole). There is another hole just below that one, so I guess you have two options. Space is surely limited, but I also don’t want to have a really hard clutch pedal. I could opt for a smaller 10” clutch I guess, but then the flywheel would need to be machined, plus a new pressure plate.
Some more reflecting is required, plus some more layout work once I figure out how to mount the pedal ***y.

 

Asking more questions of Google AI since I’m now in a roll. Haha!
It said with 120 hp with the Isky 1007B cam, at 2,000 lbs, and based on the T5, rear gear ratio, tire dia, I should be capable of 6.7 to 7.2 seconds 0 - 60 mph, and 15.1 - 15.5 seconds in the 1/4 at around 86 - 89 mph. If I could achieve that, I would be very happy. Lol!