Technical UH OH, FLATHEAD ATE MY PCV VALVE

Yeh but that costs almost as much as a flat head.
Dan

 

It was a big rat! 6'2" to be precise.

I didn't know they existed. Makes sense.

Most of the AC Delco type valves with the 90 degree fitting pull off with some force. Then you can snap it back on the straight valve.

H&H doesn't use them, I referenced several books that didn't use them, I just followed suit. The high flow mod idea is really poo pooed by a lot of high end flathead builders like H&H. I was going that route when they changed my mind. I change the oil often, more so then necessary likely so I figured I was safe. There was **** in the pan, can't deny that. It wasn't magnetic so I am thinking it's the Ross pistons? I only have 3000 miles on it, most of that city but a bit of it aggressive. I have the pick up set higher than most, just to keep the screen well out of the "debris field". I have never seen evidence that running a filter on these engines is a benefit. I do miss the cool bee hive I had purchased for my firewall. I should have mounted it and filled it with Crown.

I hope he didn't find a spring in there. Maybe that is a good idea though, like a lower radiator hose spring, keep stuff from collapsing.

 

If it collapses you ain’t eating enough Mexican food
Dan

 

I hit the Taco Smell when I need to lose a few pounds. Just don't "run for the border" on your way to the golf course.

 

U can pull 90 off another pcv ,
Seen I remember @ one time 90 was in package to install as option .

Fuel poppet for pvc
I have a few like 5 inch face gauges
that read 16th of pound increments
& multiple range test sensors .

when looking to oil filter can be
Double edge sword
Micron
flow for weight / Velocity of oil
Size of filter

You can filter to much
kill bearings, parts

 

I’m trying to understand where the actual valve was mounted, so forgive my ignorance. Read through the entire thread, and can’t quite picture the routing for the PVC circuit.
In a normal “modern” non-supercharged engine, isn’t the purpose of the PCV rely on engine vacuum to pull the gases into the intake?
In a supercharged charged engine, with the placement of the PCV hose below the supercharger, wouldn’t that cause a “reverse” flow situation?

 

Unless you want to run to the bathroom!

 

@Ziggster
I would think the pcv is pulling
Vac from oil pan road draft or lifter valley
to above /top of rotters .
Most oil pan pressure is around 6 psi in crank case .
The one thing I think would be gases
Not the gasoline but gas's erode the aluminum if not anodized
I have no ideal about time frame of erosion occurring

 

Zig, his vac source is right below the carbs. No pressure.

 

Ok. Yes, not sure what I was thinking. Thought the PVC port was under the supercharger.

 

> I did my diligence. Putting the pan back on. >

And don't forget to screw one of these babies onto you drain plug. Eventually catch the spring and all the other engine debris it and ball knocked off ricocheting down to the pan.

 

One of issue I think of
is there is more vacuum pull @ rotors
Then port above ****erflies.

Related to rotors
This is why Issues with Enderle Barn door, Blower vac would pull open
& change barrel valve adjustment
@ idle & rapping throttle not returning to stop's

 

The road draft tube hole is in the left front corner of the intake manifold. From there, the air flows through the intake to the right corner of the lifter valley. Then a short pipe drops into the block. The rest of the air p***age is in the block exits in the front right corner of the pan where a baffle is welded.

From this view the air p***age is the hole at the top of the pic next to the front main . Looking up from the bottom.

 

Good call!

 

Ok. I think I have a similar hole in my C69 block. There’s definitely a corresponding tube in my oil pan for that “draft” system.

 

Thanks for the heads up guys!
I found one with the elbow in my junk parts bucket and pulled it off...just like you both said it would. Learned something new, never thought about the fitting being snapped onto a normally straight PCV. Guess I need to pay more attention

 

The current replacement # is V100..

This was a 1962 FOMOCO which could unscrew for servicing.

They also fit 62-65 GM products. There is a 3/8” npt on the vacuum end.

The replacement for the other direction is for 65-67 Z28’s and other performance Chevrolets with the PCV valve screw into the oil filler tube.

 

Here's a question plaguing me due ot my lack of experience with blower motors; for a vacuum gauge, where is the best place to ****yze vacuum? Above the blower or below? The 6-BTM box required it's signal below the supercharger. For tuning, where do I add a gauge (direct fit) or port (handheld gauge)? I am ***uming above the blower and beneath the carbs, like the PCV hose. Agreed?

 

Oh, and while I am at it tonight...those that hink that Eastwood (and the other) 2K clear is as good as hardened clear from a gun, pshaw!

I let the pan sit in a drain bucket over night while I did the PCV Valve thing, cleaned it up inside, turned it over and all the paint wrinkled where it was sitting in the oil. Now I get to sand it down to bare metal, primer, seal, base, color, flake and clear again. What a royal PITA!

I have an extra pan but it hasn't been modified for the high-volume Melling oil pump. What is the consensus of changing the pump to the stock configuration so I can leave the pan alone and chroming it? I guess I could make the adjustment to the pan for the Melling, metal finish and chrome. Regardless that will be a winter project, I will paint this pan and get some more seat time in this year. I ask because I could mod the other pan now while it is apart to ensure a proper fitment prior to plating. Opinions?

 

You are always going to have an arbitrary vacuum signal under the carbs no matter what due to the blower. I would think in the intake would be best for tuning. There's probably no boost until WOT anyway.

 

Ok, so boost gauge signal below the supercharger, agreed! But what about vacuum at idle for tuning? I guess the same? Unless I remove the intake to drill and tap a source the vacuum below the blower is tough to come up with. On the MSD signal I removed and tapped one of the intake blow-off plates. I suppose I could do the same to the other side. I might get after this while I'm down repainting the pan. I really want to add a boost gauge to the dash anyway. I just ran out of room for that and a volt gauge.

 

Mmmmm..... no spring yet.
My guess is that it is in the valley or hung up somewhere in the block air p***ages.
It would make me nervous........ REAL NERVOUS!!!

 

Same. Boost referenced carbs tap into intake vacuum. What about a tee on the blow-off plate? I sure wish you could find that PCV spring

 

DUDE! It does! I don't think there is any chance it could make it into the lifter valley (or whateer it is called in a flathead), but...there is a hole in the air p***age between the intake and the pan into the timing gear area. It would be a one in a million shot (Seinfeld) for it to get in there but it is possible. If it did, my steel gears would destroy it.

I put the dial caliper on the spring I removed from the spare valve I cut open, the wire is .01 thick, 6 loops. I don't think it proposes much of a challenge to the rotating ***embly. And I have done soooo much diligence in searching for this thing. It just isn't there. I wish I had never used the valve to be honest and as advice to all the members reading this, do not use it! The principal is sound but if you buy it (or have already bought one) hog that aluminum adapter open like I showed you above and put a real steel valve in there! Why risk an expensive engine to a cheap *** plastic Chinese ball valve? I regret it. I got off easy, it could have been an utter disaster!

When I talked to Mike at H&H I asked if they ever put PCV valves in their engines and the answer was NO. Period! Road draft tubes are all they include in their builds. Buyers can do what they want but H&H do draft tubes even in blower applications.

I don't know. I like the idea of the PCV system, it did stop oil leaks, smells and so on. Was it worth blowing up a 20k dollar engine? Nope! I should have re-designed that cheap *** install from the start, my bad. Learn from my error and potential cataclysmic event. If you run a PVC valve, use a steel valve, made in USA, or other reputable source (NAPA, AC, etc). This could have written off my engine. I got lucky. That's why I shared this post.

 

I would sleep so much sounder had I found it. Where the hell did it go? I am an idiot for using that valve.

 

My opinion, and you know about those. For idle adjustments and carb syncing above the blower is probably fine. But for anything else you want a vacuum/boost gauge in the manifold. But you can probably tune those for in the manifold too.

On the blow thru set ups like my old Yblock/McCullough set ups, it’s alway in the manifold. Some guys will tell you the boost above the carb in the bonnet. It’s how you sell blowers. But it’s the boost (which will be lower typically) in the manifold you’re tuning to. Especially if you’re using a/f ratios.

The only thing that reads boost in the bonnet is the connection to the fuel pressure regulator, because that’s what the float bowl sees. All the factory turbos I had read boost in the manifold, but they were EFI. This is all moot with your rig.

 

Of course, another thing that has not been considered yet is that the PCV was ***embled without a spring.
The ball flogging around unrestrained in the plastic barrel could have caused the failure. Who knows...???

 

View attachment 6785817

Save this picture and then open it and zoom into the red circle. Sure looks like that spring.

 

Our gage is a Cl***ic Instruments boost/vac gage. It is electric and is plumbed into the blower manifold next to the blow off valve. It reads vac, about 20" at idle and goes down as the rpm goes up, we have seen 10 pounds of boost so far. It is possible to take off your blow off valve and tap it for a fitting. I have seen it done, I don't like it, but it is an option till next time you have the intake off.

 

Maybe someone else already said it and I missed it, but that engine and trans is some serious eye candy. Wow!