Currently building my 32 ch***is on a bench and was wondering what a good rule of thumb is to accommodate for weight on the frame and suspension travel when setting the suspension up? Needing to know Frame rail clearance for the rear, and things like shock length etc. Its going to be a 32 Roadster with stock mounted tank. Flathead v8 up front. Stock 32 front crossmember, with reverse eye posies spring. Flattened rear crossmember with posies AJ 40's style straight spring. I am also planning a small c-notch in the rear. Any help is appreciated. Thanks guys!
Most of the uncertainty is in the springs. You’ll probably need to contact Posies about the ride height of their springs. Are you building a highboy or fendered? I’d say the stock front crossmember has a good chance of making the front sit higher than you plan. Most 32’s are built with an A crossmember, or an even flatter aftermarket.
I'm building a highboy. I was debating using the stock 32 front crossmember vs the A. Its a reverse eye spring with a 2" drop and 4" dropped axle. You think It'll still sit high?
I can't recall what a model-a front crossmember drops it, but the standard aftermarket 32 is a 1" drop over factory, so that's a relatively minor adjustment. I would say the front is likely good to go, and then adjust the rear to match. I just finished a rear ***embly and opted for 8 leafs, retaining the factory 1932 arched springs. Are you going with those as well? Or Model A/T buggy style with new mounting points on the axle housings? I mention that, because I found 2 cracked springs in this pack and that was part of the decision to drop it to 8, removing shorter springs, so it will retain a good ride and not be too soft. I'll also point out that I couldn't find a front crossmember that bolts into non-boxed front frame rails, so that had to be modified in my case, since they're narrower than factory rails.
Realistically you are going to need to put some mock up weight on it and look. Even then when new posies springs they are going to settle an inch or three over the first year or three of having weight on them. It’s a bit of a moving target but it is what it is. Thankfully it’s not to hard to bring a car back up if it sags to low. A hot rod like this is generally getting around 1.25-1.5” of travel in the front and maybe 3 in the back.
Where to start? First…rake. On 32s I like fairly flat. Maybe 1 degree nose down on the frame, as this is where I always seem to land. Note: I use model A front crossmember. Set electronic angle finder on rail at about mid point of engine bay. This allows me to set engine at 3 degrees (and later match the rear pinion) and set front cross member to facilitate 7 degrees for front axle caster (when level). That way I get about six degrees with my one degree nose down. And again, as noted above, a model A front cross member is a great idea unless you are looking for the factory 4x4 ride height of an OE car. Then getting to the rear axle…I find about 3-3.5” of travel for rear axle works. Always c-notch frame to achieve this and get rear tires where I want in the wheel wells. Makes it easy when I’m setting up rear to use 2x4 studs as spacers between top of axle and bottom of c-notch. Just my formula…your desires/results may vary.
Here is my take and how I do it. I set my frame to the ride height I want when I'm done. So let's say 3" off of the ground when finished. So I set the frame a 3" then build all of my suspension pieces to set at that height, set the rear end to height then build my rear end links, bars etc at that height,rough set pinion angle etc. Then move to the front and do it all again. Set front axle and front spindles in place, measure from table/floor etc to center of spindle and set my height for the tire then start building front bars, bones, hairpin etc. Last thing I do is worry about springs, mounts etc. All of that can be modded and changed with spring arch, spring rates, etc. I build springs to match my frame and suspension, not the other way around... ...
From your photo I like the way your car sits. I also like your 2X4 trick, simple and easy. I may modify my stock 32 front crossmember to flatten it so I can retain stock motor mount locations. Thanks for the tips!
Oh right, just noticed you're incorporating the front mount engine mounts still, yeah, keeping the stock crossmember is the way to go then. All aftermarket ones remove the mounting pads for the engine.
I just slamed Howard the past week. I had a local shop i trust do a inch+ c-notch and I had them install a Posie dual flex with the spacers on the bottom. 1.75 inches of shock travel left and about 2 inches under the front splash apron. Funny story. In March I ordered a chopped deuce front splash apron from United Pacific. Box came I stuck it on the shelf never opening it until yesterday when I took the box the the body shop. Mike cut it open and it was just a box full of packing paper, no splash apron. Only me.
I'm doing a project right now with a stock deuce front cross member. At***ude depends on the style/era of car your building.
That's why I open every box when I get it and inspect the parts, because if I don't I know I'll have the luck of the empty box like you did. That ****s!
Forgot. I asked Anson/Greg Haynes how his 3 inch dropped original deuce heavy axle compared to the now popular 5 inch dropped axle. He said it was only 1/2 inch less. I combine that axle with my 36 front spindles and have a 5 inch drop. I use a Posie 31.5 reversed eye super low front spring and it sits good in a stock deuce frame.
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