Projects Rickybop's 1931 Plymouth 3W Business Coupe build

Gotta keep it wet for a few days to slow down the curing which makes it stronger. But it starts drying up quicker than you might imagine. Even after I've completely flooded it. So I'm using a garden/lawn sprinkler. Just open up the valve periodically instead of having to stand there watering it by hand.

 

It is amazing how much heat is produced in the curing process of concrete.

 

Yes, the apron. I know concrete is expensive, but it lasts. It'll save the leading edge of the gar-door-floor from getting chipped. & will work as an additional (working)floor, iffen you tent the front of the large garage door area & then over/around the large apron. Or to shade that area while you work... . More importantly, if/when you work on it, you won't tear up the surface like tar will, or need to use cardboard/plastic over the gravel to slide on. Tar will tear-up/divot, if it's hot out & you turn the wheels abit. & it will crack from both heat & cold a lot sooner than concrete will. Also needs to be sealed every couple of years. + tar'll give you little presents of tar on/in your clothes, that mysteriously migrate to the other clothes when washing/drying. Not amusing when you find it on your best T-shirts - or worse, her clothes... I had to make an apron in front of my garage, using concrete blocks(almost solid) & bricks, to save the front door-edge-area of the garage. Not much good for working on. The stupid scooter-trash that built it, just left dirt for the apron. That doesn't work well, either. Oh, you'll be really happy when you roll-out you toolbox, welder(s), etc on the concrete for all the above reasons... Also, make the apron ~ at least 8" wider, on each side, than the roll-up door. May as well pour a quick little platform/step for the service door(s), they'll really help slow down the **** tracked into the garage.
My Opinion, fwiw...
Marcus...

 

I agree with the guys that say to make the approach to the garage door cement. Asphalt gets hot in the summer sun, and when it gets hot, it can easily get deformed, and will no longer be flat and smooth. A floor jack lifting a car can settle into it during the summer sun, and the tar from it resurfaces every time it gets hot. My dad had a recycled asphalt drive way done (leveled, laid out, and rolled out flat with a big roller like they use on highways, by blacktop people dad had connections with). The asphalt was laid over top of the 15 year old gravel driveway outside of his garage way back when I was entering 10th grade. He told me he regretted that decision until the day he died 30 years later. When we sold the old house a couple years ago, the blacktop driveway was a mess but the cement floor in the garage was still in great shape. That cement garage floor was put in when I entered 7th grade.
Make it as wide as the width of the garage, and 6' longer then the longest vehicle you own. You will want to be sure it has a slight grade to it favoring one side, and away from the garage. You don't want water to stand on it, and you don't want it to point the water towards the garage. If its anything like my driveway, you will find yourself working out there more then you would expect.

Just remember the cement approach will have a 30 day wait before it can be used also. Plan accordingly.
I don't have any problem spending someone else's money.

 

Thanks Gene. I thought that might happen with the asphalt. Okay, that's off the table then. But I just can't expect Judy to spend all that money in addition to what she's already contributing toward this. As it is, all that we're doing is costing her thou$ands. I'll probably go with some kind of a crushed stone. I know what you guys are saying about working out there and the damn jack or engine hoist won't roll on it and all that. And believe me, I would love a nice big concrete apron. And I'd enjoy working out there quite often. I pushed for it initially. But when we found out how much all this was going to cost, the idea got dropped pretty quickly. So I'll be able to park vehicles out there on the gravel and that's a benefit. But there will just be a lot of work that I won't be able to do out there and I'll have to do it inside.
Poor me. LOL

 

What was the cost comparison between the asphalt and the concrete options...??? Sometimes it comes down to what is doable/affordable at the time, and it should be obvious that the asphalt choice should not be considered as "permanent". It will have a life span and will need to be re-done at some point. That's the trade off..... cost versus longevity. Each option has it's pro's and con's. Even a basic gravelled area will allow vehicles to be rolled out of the workshop area temporarily to make room when needed.

 

Then go w/compacted gravel, for now. That can be screeded off later, & repacked. So no more purchase there, then pour the concrete when you can. At least lay in a row or two of hardened bricks along the doors' edge, to prevent chipping.
Marcus...

 

Ricky you did it right, you’ll enjoy for years.
“I love it when a plan comes together”
Dan

 

Ricky, back in the 50's , we had nothing but a gravel/dirt drive. No jacks that rolled. What we now call bottle jack and blocks of old railroad ties. And bumper jacks.
You will be fine.

Ben

 

That's right, @firstinsteele
There are fellas who've built awesome hot rods in the most austere working conditions. In comparison, I'm gonna be in heaven.

 

Here is a post from another thread put up by someone we might all recognise. Sort of says it all......

 

No kiddin'.
Well then, I'll have it even better than Pete did.

I just felt him looking down on us, arms folded, with that half smile half frown of his, muttering something along the lines of...

"Yeah, so no more lame excuses."

Yes sir.

 

No rest for the wicked Rick, time to start running wire. HRP

 

That's for sure, @HOTRODPRIMER
Lots to do.

All the day-to-day work around here can keep me busy morning to night if I let it. Not easy to find time and energy for other stuff. But I am.

Right now, I'm mostly busy making sure the floor stays wet. Periodically running the sprinkler day and night. Kind of a pain in the *** LOL but that's okay.

Thought maybe I could work out there even though it's wet. But not really.

The barn is already wired. But we're going to run new wire underground from the house to the building. But Zander's dad, Eric, is the electrician, and he only comes out here every couple weeks, so I'm waiting for him.

So I'm going to start work on the doors. I mostly don't have to be in the barn to do that. Instead of purchasing a manufactured garage type door, I'm going to build custom wooden swing out carriage house type doors. I like the nostalgic look and feel and I can build them custom to the exact size of the opening so I won't have to adjust the height of the header. I really should get the doors squared away so I can easily enter and exit and the horses and deer can't. I'm also looking at used vintage solid wood exterior doors for the man door.

Plenty more. Researching how to install a double-walled Cl*** A stove flu. And a hundred other things.

Troy will be here before long to grade the apron and deliver and spread some limestone.

I have to go turn on the sprinkler again.

 

Get a timer, screw it on the hose bib nozzle, set it up for your intervals.

 

Good idea, Mike. Thanks.
I was considering that.

The whole floor, especially the area near the big door was wanting to dry up too quickly cuz of the sunlight and breeze, making me have to run the sprinkler almost constantly. I finally hung a tarp over the big door. That's helping a lot.

But I'm gonna go get a timer.
Then I can set it and forget it.

 

Apparently, a very small percentage of concrete floors get properly cured. But it can increase the strength by as much as 50%. So I think it's worth the time and effort if you can do it.

 

They cure stressed concrete beams and statues and other things under water.

I read that a subdivision was being constructed. All the ba*****ts had been dug and the concrete floor and walls poured. All the houses got built over the foundations except for one which was left to the elements and got practically filled with water. It was the only ba*****t that didn't crack.

 

Rick, I mentioned moisture barrier and sprinklers on a timer many posts back.
Glad you’ve come around

 

Sometimes ya gotta knock me in the head a couple times.
Thanks, Mike.

 

Rick, what's the plan for sealing up the entrances for field rat's and ***orted varmints along the side wall? HRP

 

Thanks, Danny.
I don't think they'll be able to get in anywhere. Even a mouse would be hard pressed to find a way in. The cement was poured right up against the poles and to the very top of the bottom boards which are right up against the steel siding. There won't be any gaps at all down low or access to wood they can chew through except for the doors. If anything is able to get in, they'd have to chew through steel and/or cement. There are some big gaps higher up where the roof meets the walls, but those are all going to be closed up except for two spots on either side of the building left open for the "attic" to breathe, but even those are going to be covered with hardware cloth and screen so squirrels and chipmunks and mice and birds can't get up in there and make a home. Also, we have 10 cats. I don't see any mice around here anymore except once in awhile in their mouths.

But if I'm missing something, somebody please bring it to my attention so I can take precautions.

 

Sprinkler is on the timer now. 5 minutes every hour. Works great. I might get a full night's sleep tonight.