Technical 3sp trans and a over drive .. whassit ?

Went to Van Pelts site mentioned earlier, they have switches, and hand pull cable. I believe this 3rd lever is cable operated.

The mid - late 60s GMs, some had X member mounted 3 speed shifters. Might be option for my off topic ride.

 

I stand by my original statement.

Once you are in OD, the sun gear is locked to the case by the solenoid pawl. This allows you to transmit power through the planet pinion ***embly (attached to the transmission main shaft) directly to the ring gear (attached to the output shaft). The overrunning clutch is between the main shaft and the output shaft. It is there to allow power to be transmitted when the sun gear is free to spin (below OD cut in speed). Once you lock the sun gear to the case you have a geared connection between the main shaft and output shaft. The overrunning is actually overrunning since the ring gear (attached to the output shaft) is now being driven faster than the main shaft. Because you have a geared connection between the mainshaft and output shaft, you do have engine braking. Since the overdrive is 0.7:1 you do not have as much engine braking as you do with the OD locked out. If fact you have 30% less, but you do have engine braking. The engine braking goes away when you drop below the OD cut in speed, the solenoid pulls the pawl out, and the sun gear is now allowed to rotate so the planetary ge****t in now ineffective (in neutral).

If you have ever driven a car with an OD you do notice that the engine drops to an idle if you let up on the throttle below OD cut in speed. That is due to the overrunning clutch disconnecting the main shaft from the output shaft. However, once you are in OD this no longer happens. If you let up on the throttle when you are in OD at say 50 mph, the engine does not drop to idle. It slowly drops rpm while being driven by the rear wheels.

This is much the same as in a Torqueflite, Cruise-O-Matic or a 350/400 GM transmission. In automatic first gear the transmission output shaft is being driven by a planetary ge****t where the planet carrier is being held by an overrunning clutch. None of these transmissions have engine braking in automatic first gear. When you let off the throttle at low speeds, the overrunning clutch overrunns allowing the planet carrier to spin free. If you want engine braking in first you have to move the selector to the L range. Also, as soon as the shift is made to second or third, you do have engine braking through the planetary gears and the overunning clutch is overrunning. It stays this way until slow down to near a stop and the transmission shift back into automatic low gear.

 

^^^well said^^^
The three speed transmission and r11 I’m running came out of a 41 Lincoln Zephyr
Also As stated earlier Vintage Auto Garage sells all the relays, switches, wire harness solenoids for 6 and 12 volt.
One other caution worth mentioning is if your using pertronics ignition the kick down switch will kill the ignition module

 

I should have paid better attention to the manual... LOL. Yes, an additional switch was used on earlier versions to prevent the solenoid from operating when the OD was locked out mechanically. It's shown on the wiring diagram in the manual. This opened the governor circuit so no power would be applied to the solenoid when its contacts closed when the OD was disabled and was operated by the OD disable/enable shift rod controlled by the cable. I had to think about why they deleted it as the solenoid draws considerable power when it pulls in...

It has to do with the electrical properties of how a solenoid works. Solenoids are magnetic coils with a spring-loaded, movable iron core. When the coil is energized, a weak magnetic field is initially created, but as the core is drawn into the field it becomes stronger, drawing more current. But because the solenoid is prevented from drawing in by the mechanical lock-out, it never draws full power. BW eventually figured out this lower draw would do no harm, so simplified the circuit by deleting the switch; one less fail point and a tidy cost reduction in parts and machining.

As to the guys that keep insisting that you have engine braking while in OD... I don't know what to tell you. The manual clearly states that freewheeling is present any time OD is enabled, you must know something BW doesn't. Are there frictional forces that will slow the car? Sure; rolling resistance from the tires, bearing losses, wind resistance, even 'stiction' inside the overrunning clutch drum from the lubricant. The one thing you claim that really puzzles me is your idea that 'lock up' is released when speed drops to the 'cut-in' 28 MPH. You do realize that the governor contacts close at 28 MPH, but don't open until speed drops 4-5 MPH lower? Again, clearly noted in the manual.

 

The OD solenoid has two internal coils. A heavy wound coil and a lighter one. The heavy coil is the "pull in" coil, the lighter the "hold in" coil. There is a set of points inside the solenoid that opens the pull in coil once the plunger gets to near full travel. That's what limits the current flow in the solenoid. I hadn't thought about it, but the overdrives I have had do not have anything to prevent the solenoid from operating if the OD cable is pulled out. There must be enough movement in the solenoid to open the pull in coil.

Also, if you are running about 40 - 45 mph in OD and downshift to second, you definitely get engine braking. I've had two daily drivers with OD and all the factory wiring and both had engine braking in OD not rolling resistance or internal friction. If the manual says there is no braking once you are in OD, the manual is wrong. It wouldn't be the first time I found something wrong in a manual.

 

you do get engine braking after OD engages, but you do NOT have it with the cable pushed in, and not up to speed yet. Which is really fun on steep mountain roads. ALWAYS pull out the cable when you're on a mountain.

 

Interesting... can be a whole cl*** on how to drive one correctly.

 

Going shopping for switches, like the idea of wiring it as the factory did.

 

Another place to check is 5th Avenue auto parts in Kansas(?). I have ordered there before and its top notch stuff.

This set up is really pretty good as long as there isnt too much power to it, I haven't killed mine with a 235 yet and I have tried for years. The OD has treated me well for years

 

My 283 220hp should be perfect for the O.D., not too much torque.

 

No, I dont think I am misinterpreting it. I interpret it to be that the overdrive is malfunctioning if it is engaged and it is free wheeling. They are NOT saying it wont lock up, they are saying it wont stay locked up above the cutout speed. And then tell you how to correct this condition.

 

This link shows the wiring diagram for the “deleted” switch Steve figured out. Gl***, looking at your pcitures it looks like you might have a wire from that harness over there. I can’t really see it enough to tell. It also talks about byp***ing it.

https://fifthaveinternetgarage.blogspot.com/2018/12/borg-warner-r-10-overdrive-wiring.html

For those building floor shift linkage, this link has some pictures of the original Hurst brackets for a T-85 o/d. Not really applicable, but like Anthony’s picture, shows the off set to get clear of the solenoid and engagement lever.

https://www.hotrodreverend.com/post/2017/09/20/55-ford-restoration-blog-part-10

 

3spd Other View. Has partial wiring harness. Be nice to find the harness that fits that plug. 67 Impala?

 

I'm happy for all you guys with the special transmissions...

 

well finally had some time to go get it !

looks clean , guy says trans and OD unit where rebuilt 5 or so years ago and ran mint

ran it with a cable and toggle switch in his truck behind a 283

picked up the 3 carb intake also

looks like it’s off a 230-292 engine family
But who cares ! Home brewed tri carb intakes are cool !!

 

Looks like the real deal. Still got the column shift in the car? A sweet 6 with the o/d and column shift is the definition of cruiser to me.

 

You gonna love it

 

all the coloumn shift stuff is gone from inside and outside the car . It has a flirt shift in it , if I could find it I’d go back to a 3 on the tree , they’re fun !!

 

I went for an overdrive, 3 on the tree drive yesterday, it was fun.

 

That homebrew modded intake doesn’t look too shabby.

 

Any idea why the speed would change when the relay activates? Mine ('67 F100) has always been 28mph, but lately won't activate until 40mph. Could the governor be gummed up? The difference is really noticeable when driving. Thanks for any help.

 

gotta be the governor...

 

It sounds like your area is the same, it's pretty hard to find a used Saginaw unit around here also. I sadly let one go that was in my '64 Chevy panel, but didn't have anything else to put in it's place before it was sold.

https://vintageautogarage.com/borg-warner-overdrive/

If someone is local to SoCal this guy also sells O/D parts too.
https://www.craigslist.org/view/d/seal-beach-chevy-speed-overdrive/sQ3mWhSqpoyrRwAanoBerS

Yes, almost everything was at one time rebuildable....now it's just can you find the parts (like points for solenoid and governor).

 

I've been driving these transmissions for 20 years now (sometimes daily drivers). I have a full stock setup Muncie (stock meaning all the correct switches and parts) in my '56 Chevy panel. I had a toggle switch/cable Saginaw in my old '64 Chevy Panel. Have the Ford version in the '51 Ford wagon. I can't get enough of a column shift......had 3 on the tree vehicles even longer. I have a few spare transmissions for future swaps also (2 Muncie and 1 Saginaw). Your going to love that trans, just be kind to it and it will last.

 

Checked out that website, they have complete kit... solenoid, wiring, manual. Thanks a bunch. I would love to get this O.D. in my Wagon or the Camaro with X member mounted shifter.

 

What are these trans worth these days?

 

BTW, on the solenoids: if they don't work, carefully peel back-n-off the cover, & check the wiring, esp on the coil. Probably will find a small part(portion) burned up. If the whole thing isn't toast, just unwind a turn or three(whatever amount, as long as it isn't excessive), re-solder the wire onto it's terminal, & test the solenoid. Should work pretty well. These are very fine wires, that have the shellac-type coating, so don't be ham-fisted here. Careful is the word. Might save more than a few bucks this way. Worst case, well, the solenoid (sorta) needed replacing anyways. (???)
Marcus...

 

If I remember wasn’t there a post on here about re wrapping a solenoid for 12v?

 

I’ve paid $10 to $250 for em