Technical Boiling over,,,,,,, trouble shooting

Around 4 min of idling, occasional throttle blip, to get off of fast idle, temp guage peggs at 240, then starts "puking" out the overflow tube.

Been reading the archives on overheating problems and soloutions. I guess, start dismantiling the front of the motor, see what I find. (problem. I'm not sure what to look for). T-stat 180, drilled 1/8" bleed hole, every thing is all new, but several years old before coolant was added and ran.

Top hose and radiator HOT. Bottom hose is warm. Heater hoses are luke warm.

Questions on the several contridicting statements in the archives of "byp***," Zipps Riser, heater hose eliminations, and locations. First off, are my heater hoses ran correctly?

"If" I am to dismantle every part of the cooling sys back to the front of the block, I will buy one of those 1777CW Super Cool water pumps instead of the plain ol 6 cyl pump Zipps' instructions said to use.

Opnions on changing the T-stat from 180 to 160? What other suggestions can I look for? Thanks

 

Am I seeing things in that photo? Is the fan on backwards ?

Have you checked for cold spots on the radiator core when hot?

 

Timing OK?
Gauge accurate?
Checked with heat gun?
Recovery system?
Puking from overheating or just making room for expansion?
What poundage cap?

Chris

 

The fan would be my guess. Unless my eyes are deceiving me.

 

First, are you leaving expansion space in that top tank radiator? sitting cold the coolant should just be maybe 3/4 inch if that above the core to leave room for expansion. They will always puke coolant if you don't leave that space or have the correct cap and an expansion tank.

Second and every bit just as important, Air flow at an idle. That fan may not be pulling enough air though the radiator to keep it cooled down.

Third the fan is only pulling air though the circle in front of it without a shroud and sitting still the rest of the radiator does not have any air moving through it. I had that problem with my 48 as the temp would run 183 going down the road at highway speed but rise quickly at an idle. Placing a big fan that pushes a lot of air in front of it and blowing air though the radiator while you have it sitting there might show if it is just and air flow issue. I've got an old squirrel cage fan out of a big home oil furnace that I salvaged years ago when I s****ped the oil furnace that blows a lot of air that I set up in front of vehicles that I have sitting and idling while I am working on them. That thing moves some air and I use it a lot on hot days just as a work area fan.

 

Hot all over,

 

Backwards!? Turns clockwise. Feel air drawing and blowing. The only way the fan will mount.

 

Flipping the fan might move it nearer to or further from the radiator, but it won't change the direction of air flow. The only way to do that would be to change the pitch of the blades or to rotate the fan in the opposite direction, wouldn't it?

 

Close enough. Have not tuned anytghing yet. Trying to access leaks and 1st start up problems first. Motor runs smooth.

I'll say the guage is close enough. Started "puking" at 220.

Heat gun!? No. Had one and the batteries ate it up.

Overflow hose just dangling below the frame. Havent made a neat, unusual catch can yet.

It's overheating.

The cap sez 16 underneath.

 

According to the pictures and confusing statements in the archives, I think my heater hoses and routed wrong. Went off an old OEM picture.

What is this statement out of the archives, the one heater hose exits the rear of the motor? The return enters the water pump?

 

Per pic air is being pushed via the crown of the blade. Not how an airfoil (fan) works.

 

When I was mounting the fan, turned aroun the other way moved if farter from the radiator, but the blade tips were into the Gen, belts and brackets. Try to space it away from those items, puts the fan into the radiator. That is the only way the fan will mount.

 

I bet if you put a shroud and a 6 blade fan on it your problem would be solved.

 

https://kit-masters.com/wp-lib/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Fan-ID-Flyer.pdf

 

It looks like the leading and trailing edges of the fan are correct for clockwise rotation (looking from the front), but shouldn't the curve of the blade be the other way?

 

Fan cannot draw air in like that. It's pushing the air through the radiator. We used to do that in the winter on older diesel trucks. I think you need to go to plan "B" on the fan. Are the blades riveted on a hub? Pop the rivets out and flip the fan blades on the hub. It will draw that way. If you can't do that, find a fan that will. The hollow side of the fan blade should be toward the engine. That's a pretty paint job on there, but it will work on the right fan also.

 

Like I said in my first reply, pic is confusing (too much black to sort thru).

The red arc I made is how it appears to me. The blue arc you drew is how it should be.

 

Another vote for backwards fan. Also late ignition timing will play into overheating issues. Fix the fan first.

 

Lets forget about the fan for a second here. A cold engine wouldn’t puke water in 4 minutes time even if it had no fan. Tell us more details about these 4 minutes. Is a cold start or restart after warmed up?

 

A picture taken further away to show the entire system will help
We can zoom in if need be

 

Well, as the top hose gets hot and lower hose gets warm coolant appears to circulate well enough, and the radiator does some cooling. Improving air flow through the radiator should improve cooling, and as said, the fan is not meant to be turned that way, it will still move air but not as much as it should, and if you add a shroud you can make the air flow through the entire radiator, not just the area covered by the fan.

As also said, 4 minutes is a very short time to get hot enough to boil, so there may be other underlying issues, such as a blown head gasket.

 

I'm in agreement with the fan direction. What Moriarity said. Also, I don't think the possibility of an air lock in the system has been mentioned. Especially with a Zip's riser.

 

If you guys are absoulty positive I got the fan blade back ***wards,,,, ok I'll go with that. I have been wrong before, and I'll be wrong again. I don't think I'm as bad as "Wrong Way Corrigan." (some of you youngins will have to Google him to know what he did to earn that "Wrong Way" name. It seemed to be a huge deal back then)

Soon as I get some help tomorrow, I can take the radiator off try and play around, mount the fan the other way. As it sits now there is only 3/4" gap between the blade tip and radiator cooling fins on the bottom. It's been a while, (CRS disease) but back then, when I was mounting the fan I tride both ways. (I wasn't sure which way it goes) 180 from what it is now, the blade tips was hitting everything in the picture there. Now, how much I needed to space the fan out to clear everything, and not be into the radiator, I can't remember. But it seemed to fit perfect the way it's on now.

Just saying. Hopefully turning the fan around, make a 1/2" spacer will make the fan clear everything and be a 1/4" fron the radiator. I'll post findings tomorrow.

Any comments on the heater hose routing? Thanks

 

Look at the blades and see the cup/curvature of the airfoil? That cupping action of the airfoil grabs the air and pulls it back, so to say. If the blades hit when on the correct way then you need to space it out, maybe even needing a custom sized spacer.

Change that and report back the results as I wouldn't waste my time trying anything else until this is corrected.

 

Yes, cold (ambient room temp high 70's low 80's) start. Was closely checking oil guage, plus the temp guage beside it This was the 2nd time the motor had been started in 10-11 years (First time was around the 1st of April. Leaks everywhere.) A good couple of min the temp guage did nothing. Seemed at the 3 min mark it started climbing. Climed fast. It climed past 220 started puking, and got to 240 (pegged) before I could turn the motor off.

Radiator was HOT, burned my fingers and hand, and upper hose was just as hot. Bottom hose was warm, I could hold my hand on it for a little bit. Heater hoses felt like there was no hot water going through them. (didn't have time to turn the heater fan on)

 

That IS a 6 bladed fan.

 

Wouldn't there be signs of a gasket? Missfire, white smoke?

 

Are your thermostats staying closed, or can you see the coolant moving in the radiator?

 

I don't think heater hose routing would be the cause of anything as long as the control valve is open. Control valve should be in the line that comes from the intake manifold. Return line to the water pump.