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Ramble On

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by BigJoeArt, Nov 4, 2024.

  1. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,104

    BigJoeArt
    Member

    Small update, I started working 12-14 hour days at work, but I found time to throw the pipes under the car.

    [​IMG]

    A couple ratchet straps help hold it up in position.

    It seems to fit well, you can see the crossmember that am avoiding by merging later.

    I'm using this driveshaft for its small outside diameter, and to use it I'll either have to get it lengthened or get a longer yoke for the trans.

    but everything clears so far.

    [​IMG]

    here's a overview from the rear of the car. the pipes fell down a little, but you get the idea, right at the end it will turn into a single 3" pipe and go back and over the rearend.

    [​IMG]

    I started testing some pipes in the front, but I need to install some flanges and stuff on the manifolds so I can mate the pipes up.

    slow but steady.

    .
     
    enloe, RodStRace, Deutscher and 3 others like this.
  2. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 21,573

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Looks nice and tight, make sure you keep that front joint grease with the exhaust that close.

    are you going to box in the second exhaust p*** thru also?
     
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  3. y'sguy
    Joined: Feb 25, 2008
    Posts: 893

    y'sguy
    Member
    from Tulsa, OK

    That is going to make a great little ride. I've always thought that model had potential.
    I'll wait here for more progress.
     
    enloe and porkshop like this.
  4. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 6,902

    gene-koning
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    So, if you ever need to drop the trans cross member out, you have to cut the dual exhaust pipes on both sides of the cross member?
     
    enloe likes this.
  5. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,104

    BigJoeArt
    Member

    still remains to be seen, its plenty strong as is, and since it will be 3" from the pavement i doubt anyone will ever see it once the car is done...

    but I will probably box it in cause it'll drive me nuts.

    thanks! I never looked at them before my buddy mike had one, and I really should have bought his when he sold it, but this is the next best thing, and I can build it my way now.

    haha man, I hope I don't come off that dumb.

    My current plan is v band clamps between the motor and the crossmember, and another one back where it turns to 3" just in front of the rearend.

    then I should be able to sneak them through the tube in the crossmember.

    .
     
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  6. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 10,873

    RodStRace
    Member

    We don't think you are dumb. But you do tend to push the limits which causes rework. ;) You overcome, so it's not a big deal.
    How much bigger diameter are v band ends? I look at this tuning fork and see very little allowance for sliding back with a flare at each end. Are those p*** through tubes perfectly parallel? Same with the pipes.
    [​IMG]
     
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  7. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 21,573

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    I figured he would just compress the head pipes to slip into the tunning fork (tm) as per normal muffler shop and then pull it out the back. But those joints are pretty impossible to take apart with out destroying it.

    the v band ridge can be pretty small with the clamp off. If he does them on both sides and doesn’t have to deal with the tail pipes levering/ working against him I bet he can p*** it through with pretty tight clearance
     
  8. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 10,873

    RodStRace
    Member

    Agreed. IT can work, but it's getting into gnat's backside clearance. Joe thrives on making stuff that way. :cool:
    I was only partially teasing when I mentioned thinner carb gaskets for air cleaner clearance.
     
    Deutscher, porkshop and BigJoeArt like this.
  9. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,104

    BigJoeArt
    Member

    this is the plan if all else fails, but there are multiple options, including wide band clamps.

    the current plan is (as usual) mis-using parts, to do what I want.

    I'm planning on using a 1.75 V-band clamp, which if I weld the 2" tubing to the end of the flange instead of inside the flange, it should offer a minimal restriction (ID is less that 1/8 inch difference) and should slide inside the 3/16 3" crossmember tubing with room to spare.

    for now, I'm focusing on the rear of the system first.

    I picked up exhaust tubing and a new tank this weekend in my model T shaped truck.

    [​IMG]

    the tank is a G body tank that was a scratch/dent sale at Speedway for $50

    should work nicely once a move the filler.

    (if you want more info on the rest of the trip look *HERE*)


    .
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2026
  10. nrgwizard
    Joined: Aug 18, 2006
    Posts: 3,420

    nrgwizard
    Member
    from Minn. uSA

    ^^^
    Sigh...
    There's always *somebody* w/a fancy pickup... :) .
    Marcus...
     

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