Technical frozen busted 5/16 bolt HELP

wouldn't be easier just to yank the head!

 

We used to have a local machine shop edm broken fasteners all the time on prototype engines.

Never failed.

The issue is finding a shop that has the capability and is willing to deal with a guy off the street instead of a corporate customer.

 

I asked about thermostat housing material, as thought bolt was broke off flush with that.

 

i took it wrong..! was thinking taking head TO the edm

 

looking mor like it all the time . im going to hit it this morning an see if i make any good progress . if something doesn't give ..........but the broke piece could break loose any time .....or never !

 

There are plans out there to build your own EDM. I'm going to get A-round Tuit and offer weekend EDM services on Craigslist er sumptin'

 

well i pulled the head off my parts mtr. had a blown headgasket , and some how has a bent intake valve now . .

 

bolts out . now if i can get a tap to clean up the threads and hold a bolt i might be good .i need a extension for the tap now !

 

Hey, Bill. I seem to recall dual-sized studs, where you might be able to enlarge the tapped hole in the head to 3/8, and the other half of the stud is 5/16. You might want to check that out.
In the meantime, break down that spare head and have it shaved about .050". Then clean up the ports, and maybe even drop in bigger valves. That'll help out that lowly 8.2:1 factory compression, and make that slant breath better.

Roger.

 

it had bolts originally . but the stud would be better than a helicoil for sure . ill see how things develop . i wonder how much that would raise the compression ? and if i can find a shop local to cut it down . no one local capable of much ! would the pushrods still work ?

 

At .050", yeah, there should be enough adjustment in the rockers to not screw up the geometry.

BTW......are you registered over on slantsix.org?

Roger

 

There is a lesson here and most of us have learned it the hard way. IF a bolt twists off, do not try to remove it with some type of screw extractor. It's OK to use them on bolts that broke off in shear but to think you're going to exert more torque on the stuck fastener with an extractor is fantasy. All extractors expand the remaining bolt in some way and all of them are smaller in diameter. After you've broke one off, you realize the error of your ways.

Welding a nut to the remaining fastener or drilling it out with a guide are the 2 best options. TIG welding is best because it transfers more heat and gives you a better weld than MIG but MIG will usually work eventually. If you use a guide, you should seriously consider a heli-coil or timed thread insert.

Bottom line is, Don't use a screw extractor on a bolt that has twisted off. It will, more often than not, cause bigger problems.

 

and in my situation i started my pilot hole off center . trying to get it back on track likely led to the bit snap ! all bad from there . but its not like i havent done simular dumb **** more times than i can remember . i think i will be able to pull it back though . if i can find 12 inch+-extension for my tap . i think im good . but aint over till the anti- freeze stays put !

 

How did you get broken drill out?

 

i ended up using heat . more than i like . but i tried several times with less , working up . it had to get very hot . red hot , before it did anything . so im not sure if i did any damage . but worst case i have to swap heads .. we,ll see....

 

Extremely good advise.

 

well , if it holds , imight be done . cneaned every thing up .and filled the holes with j-b weld ,and put studs in . thats the way i roll ! im not slow , or fast . im half ***ed . should be good . but we,ll see .waiting over night . i generally use 5 minute . but at this point im in no rush . 16 min. job . on day 3 ! if ya replace a thermostat , do humanity a favor . never seize cant ever hurt !

 

I had a bolt rust in half just below the surface on my Dad's OT 460 ci thermostat housing (on the intake). I drilled it out horribly but finally got it out. I cleaned out the hole and took a lightly oiled bolt and lined it up with a couple of threads at the bottom and filled it with marine grade JB weld. It took a couple applications to fill it flush and then removed the bolt and filed it flush. Worked great.

 

its saved my *** , and a lot of trouble a few times . way cool when you fill in stripped thread and it sets and you can remove/ replace the bolts .i used studs on this , so i can leave them undisturbed . but i imagine they will be removable . or so i hope

 

Bottom line is, Don't use a screw extractor on a bolt that has twisted off. It will, more often than not, cause bigger problems.[/QUOTE]

I wish the manufacturers would be more honest! I call “easy outs”
“THROW THEM OUTS”!!!

 

Yep. Had similar situation. M8 bolt used to secure stabilizer link brkt to frame. Snapped bolt, then said I have an extractor set I never used. Got it out, and promptly snapped that ******. Went in with a die grinder bit. Eventually ground out the extractor, then drilled out the snapped bolt.

 

Buick Bill said: "just recently joined over there . probably more of a A100 platform . but im a outlaw !!!!"

We don't care, as long as it's slant-powered. You could post pics of an early 70's Haigie high-wheeled ag sprayer and ask questions, and you'd still be accepted. It's all about the engine.

Roger

 

Slant 6’s are tough . Hesston used them in swathers . I think that’s why I don’t hear well in my right ear . The exhaust was on the right side screaming wide open all day . The industrial engines have bigger exhaust valves and larger diameter main and rod bearings .

 

well moving on to the next 15 miute task ...after 3-4 days . j-b comes thru again !

 

I had similar situation with busted drill bit and managed to loosen and turn it out with a small chisel and hammer..I considered the removal a rare event and stroke of luck.