Featured Technical ***September monthly BANGER meet - The HEAT is braking***

Link to previous month:

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...banger-meet-thread-hot-summer-nights.1354218/

Coming Events: (PM Jiminy with additions/corrections)
Stay safe.

For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Jim Brierley's book 4-bangers! And me! is a must read book for all banger enthusiasts. US customers send $34.00 all color except for the oldest pictures (includes S/H in the U.S.A.), PayPal welcome, to:
Jim Brierley, 39480 Colleen Way, Temecula, CA 92592.
email: jimb4e4@gmail.com
phone: 951-695-7313.

A few links to speed equipment companies there may be more
https://specialtymotorcams.com/index.php#header
http://www.millerhi-speedheads.com/index.html
http://www.modelatrader.com/brumfield/brumfield.html
https://www.hotforhotfours.com/advertisers.htm
https://www.secretsofspeed.com/speed-parts
https://eraspeed.com/

Bert's, Synder's, Mikes affordable also list some speed performance parts.

Here is a list of most of the prior monthly banger meet links:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498

Banger basics. another info link list:
http://www.fordgarage.com/

http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

The link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/may-bang-er-thread.470853/page-4#post-5212157
and this link shows the missing image from the above post
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-work-on-bangers.1010716/page-3#post-11427055

The 4 Banger hot rod picture thread.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-4-banger-hot-rod-picture-thread.997051/

Model B rod bearing insert numbers
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484

Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
http://web.archive.org/web/20120415...e.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

Helpful Model A tools and tips:
http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

Gary in MN's late model Malory distributor conversion for A/B engine:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9147025&postcount=109

Elrod's stuck head tech:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

Model A generator to alternator conversion:
http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:
http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculator.php

Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"
http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05

Chevy Banger Stuff
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10

T-5 5 speed in a Torque Tube:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256226

Model A & B Style Cast Iron Cylinder Head Compression Ratios.
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/headcompressionratio.htm

 

First things first.... Registration is now open
https://vintagefastfords.com/centralcoast

 

Checking In, Been busy Building a new front end.

 

No hot rod activity from me - still busy with work and house renovations.

 

the wife has had me occupied with her in the hospital and now home in recovery from surgery...
I have been getting the Vicky ready for a road trip to the RPM Nationals....that trip may or may not happen...she is tired of me and wants me to go...but she hasn't recovered and been released to drive...I need some road therapy...we shall see
Had a guy come look at the top on the Cabriolet who says he can do it in the material I want....he says bring it to him the day before I leave for CA and he will have it done when I get back....that would make him not your typical upholstery/top guy and the work I have seen him do looks good
thanks @fur biscuit for starting Septembers banger meet

 

I’ve been very busy fitting a different supercharger to the engine I built last year.
I also made some plates, tie rods and corner pieces to hold the head corners down.
It all worked well with 158.46 hp and 235.43 ft lbs of torque. Pretty happy with the result.

 

That “Roof” is beyond impressive! Well Done!

 

@nutrocker I commented on a social's post of your car/engine, I love it, especially the a Wade as I have one & the castings to use it & also I didn't realise that it was in a ute! Looks very Aussie.... Thanks for your contribution.
What PSI are you pushing out?

 

I’ve changed my spark plugs. Didn’t need to though.
This is just to remind myself to refit the luggage rack before the early drive down to Wales on Wednesday morning.

 

Outstanding as always!

 

"I’ve been very busy fitting a different supercharger to the engine I built last year."

Man, that engine compartment is FULL. Wow, what a thing. I'm in awe.

 

I've been busy fitting a Columbia two speed rear end on my speedster, then pulling it out, rebuilding it, and putting it back in. Hopefully almost ready. Knock on wood.

 

Yes - You might say those numbers are through the roof.......

 

Anybody in this group from the midwest area (MN/IA) going to the North Central F.A.S.T. speed meet Sept. 12 in Northwood IA? Been there a couple times, really enjoyed it but sorta committed to the Vintiques' run in Watertown SD the same weekend. Have a great time if you go and it would also be cool if you can share some pics here.

 

Hey Outback, thank you for the nice comments both here and the socials.
Re: boost. It’s running 13 psi.

 

Have a great time in Wales, gents! Be fast!

Nothing else to declare - will hitch hike for the DSRA 30-year jubilee cruise on saturday, need more hours in a day! (and the wifes garage project to be done with, and the youngest kid to get past this being-3-years-old fase, and a raise...)

 

so, in keeping with my inability to ever do anything entirely normal, i’ve been watching a fun mill on marketplace for a while. Price kept going down reached out to the gentleman selling it, and unfortunately, he sold the magneto off the engine. made an agreement to come down and pick it up, low and behold, the gentleman who bought the magneto decided not to use it and put it up for sale. do I have any use for this, of course, not. does it look cool, darn Skippy. it is a 1950 to ‘53 Volvo B4B with homemade speed equipment. I’m guessing it was done in the period. So if anybody knows of anyone hiding a 50s special in their garage in Southern California that’s missing a four-cylinder engine. Let me know…

 

@Fir Biscuit ...I have the lust for a '62, 122S wagon that is coming up in a local auction next month...now I want it even more....gee, thanks

 

well, don’t look my way…I’ll be standing there with a sign saying do it!

my other current project, no matter how many ways I think about slipping it onto HAMB, just ain’t gonna happen, is a 67 Saab with a three cylinder two-stroke. Will be rewiring the entire thing, you know when you get something pop the hood and it’s full of wire nuts…

 

used to have a neighborhood friend that had one it high school... it was farther to walk to his house to hitch a ride to school than to the bus stop....but way cooler a ride
I will tell my wife that I have pre-authorization to bid

 

My first car was a ‘61 F100, my sisters was a ‘63 122S sedan. They were both gutless beasts, but at least hers was fun to drive! We swapped out the B18 for a B20, ran great with the dual SU’s. Not sure what ever happened to the twin Webber Red Lines that were hanging up in the rafters… Great little car! Used to drive it like I stole it! Only thing better than a 122S wagon would be a P1800 wagon!!

 

I have been working on modifications to my 1929 banger and have run into some issues that I am hoping someone can help me figure out.

I built a traditional banger to use in drag events (see Traditional Banger Build thread) and decided a little while ago to upgrade to a 1939 gearbox, install a Pacific Quickchange and try to get the rear end down a little by installing an Old Yankee Speed Co AV8 reversed eye T style rear spring (42.5" version) in the hopes of getting down the track a little quicker. All of these mods were made at the same time while I had to pull the rear end.

I am using the Snyders "Clings Style" kit for the gearbox and am using a 99A-7085 rear bearing retainer (1939-1941 Mercury V8 and 1941 Ford V8 p***enger cars). The issue I am having is that the spring is sitting a bit too far rearward to get it into the rear crossmember even with 4 leaves removed (see pics). I thought it might be lean in the spring that was pushing it rearward but I leveled it with the torque tube and they are really close to parallel (see pics). I am thinking that I might have the wrong rear bearing retainer (is the one I am using thicker than a 78-7085 used in 1937-1940 cars?).

I reached out to the Pacific Quickchange folks (who have been very helpful) and they said the geometry of the quickchange should be fine (which makes sense since the torque tube is the same as the original). I am thinking my issue must be up front with the Snyders adapter or the rear bearing retainer pushing everything rearward a small amount? Am attaching a bunch of pics in the hopes that someone can see something I am missing.

 

When you lower the rear axle you are effectively shortening the distance between the rear of the transmission and the centerline of the rear axle. But your torque tube is a fixed length that was designed to fit in a longer space; that is why the top of the spring no longer aligns with the spring pocket in the cross member. The easiest way to deal with this is to remove the shackle bars and slide the spring forward on the shackles until it fits in the cross member. Then with the spring in the frame you can replace the shackle bars and the spring will twist into alignment as you tighten up the shackles. I've been through this on a couple of modified A's and have had no ill effects from ***embling them in this fashion.

 

Wow! Jealous!
You might be able to fit a B16 M40 gearbox behind it, which will improve driveability a ton - like Harald @Deutscher's coupe mentioned previously.

Do it!
My '67 221 (non-sport) with a B20 with E head, Weber two-port, K-cam and overdrive is the best driving car, I've had, that I'd want back. Driveline is still mine, will be put in a 121 with family history on a later point in time.

This is great advice, @5280A2! Never thought of it that way!

 

What highschool fun.....I've got a buddy that just picked up a P1800 wagon locally and has been working thru issues of it sitting for 30+ years.
He took me for a spin in it the other day after I fixed the dealer installed Volvo air conditioning...he needs to loose the original fuel injection control on it and go with a megasquirt or even carburation but he got sidetracked with a '39 Simca Topolino ....talk about a little....tiny liquid cooled 4 banger

 

It came with a “46078 - H4” transmission, having a hard time finding out what it is other than it has Volvo cast on it.

Never knew that there were so many secret swedish vehicle operators on the HAMB

 

Checking in, got more than 750 miles on the new engine, absolutely love driving this thing. Unfortunately the new water pump failed on my way home after a more than 100 mile ride. I'll get this fixed and put a few more miles on it and start the next wave of repairs/upgrades, etc.
It is running rich. I'll ask for some advice on this after it is up and running again.

 

There's always the off topic part of the forum, then you can link it for us

 

This is a vintage head kicking around at the moment

 

Got the "4-banger" and the caravan out of the garage today to get packed;

tomorrow morning I'm heading to Hindenburg for the DirtTrack race,

then on to the Airfield Club Race in Finowfurt, which is taking place the following weekend,

a nice little road trip.
Best regards Harald