Featured Technical CHROME PLATING AN OIL PAN

It is not every day I read about people and their bung hole, next you will write about dingle berries!

 

So today I was working on my dingle berries That’s the technical term for the little holes that the stud gun left in the pan. Simone said earlier that chrome plating may not stick to MIG wire. Anyone know that for talks? I need to fill these damn dingle berries. But the dents are gone. I saved the worst for last, that’s must have been a nasty stump someone high centered their Merc on to put that s****er in that thick pan. Ancient history now.

those wrinkles are factory press marks. They’re staying.

You can see a dozen little pits where the dent used to be. I had to use heavy studs and each one left a little reminder.

Maybe put the stainless wire in the MIG and the tri gas? It doesn’t melt as well or grind as easy. Anyone with knowledge on weather or not chrome plating will take to MIG wire, feel free to step up to the mike. I had to have chrome stuff I welded, had to, but I don’t recall.

 

Oh, I also made a plate and tapped three 1/4 20 holes in it for mounting my chrome dip stick I have it bolted on and ready to weld.

Dennis, @Flatrod17 sent me the bung for the drain plug. Looks great, thanks again man!
I’m thinking I’ll keep the weld inside the pan so the outside stays tidy? Thoughts?

 

And how the hell does this happen? I was driving the truck Monday and noticed The cone was missing in the left rear spider cap. One cap is 90 bucks, set off 4 was $199 free delivery. And of course the adapter holes didn’t match the new cap so I had to charge that too. Bother.

 

Bill, glad it fits. I was thinking weld outside smoothed down to where it was not visible, just looks like bump made that way. Had I known you were not going to use the dip stick tube holder I would have removed it for you, I am running out of them for custom pans.

 

Never say never. I said I wasn't taking out the windage tray and I had to anyway. A couple of those dents would not, could not (and possibly should not) come out without pounding them out from the inside. And I don't mean tapping them out, I had to use a pretty heavy hammer. It was kinda grimy under there and the windage tray had a lot of rust on the bottom. Glad I took it out. The tray is now a bolt it so it can be moved for cleaning and make the plating process easier. More on that soon.

I will take some pictures of the tray for you later but for now a question and it is this, would you paint that tray with glyptal or powder coat it or chrome it or just leave the hell alone? I don't want to contaminate my oil with paint flaking off and I have heard stories of that happening with glyptal.

 

I never trusted glyptal. I would just gl*** bead it clean and put it back in. It's got oil sloshing all around it. With no filter you don't need extras floating around in the pan!

 

Since it will be a while until the pan is ready for service, would you put a coat of Gibbs on it so it doesn't rust? I use Gibbs all the time on sheet metal but never on engine parts. I would guess it is safe to use and maybe just wipe it off with thinner before install?

 

I know nothing about Gibbs, don't have it up here that I know of. If its clean and in your heated garage it should not be a problem. My brother's car sat here in bare metal for decades, it only had some small surface rust that wiped off.
On the other hand I don't see why not giving it a coating. Is it basically a phosphate coating?

 

Welding done. Drain plug both inside and out. Leak tested. Ran a tap through it to make sure it’s clean

winged tray was bolted to the brackets during welding.

these ten 1/4 20 stainless bolts will secure it. The heads are drilled and they will be wired.

dip stick plate secured

you can see here that I left the bit of the windage tray attached to the pan and made the brackets match the height. That was done both to make sure the tray is at the right height and so the weld is across the old and new (brackets and flange). The weld is across the top and not into the pan so it didn’t warp the pan sides. I also radiused all the corners of the pan and brackets and softened the edges. I still have to have my hands in there and I don't want to get sliced up.

The corrosion on the bottom of the tray

Tray out. The angle brackets are exactly mimic the flanges left on the pan.

now, back to cleaning the inside. I’ll finish it in 800 so it is smooth.

 

Wow !

 

Awesome !
(glad that you did it properly).
I wouldn’t hesitate coating it with gibbs and wiping it down later, or just give it a coating of oil and put it in a plastic zip lock bag to keep the dust off, until needed.
Looking forward to photos of the shiny end result……..

 

I definitely won't spray it with anything prior to plating so it doesn't mess with the chrome tanks. When it is shiny I will likely be in a hurry to bolt it o, so I likely needn't worry.

 

Bill, That is an excellent job, Well done!!! Pretty much what I had in mind, Like the nut certs too! I didn't bother with safety wire, just used lock washers.

 

I have the tray a little attention yesterday

it is polishing up nice. The oil ought to slide right off it.
Also got the inside of the pan with blue scotchbrite (fine) and most of the scratching is gone. I May work it a bit further, maybe 220 and 400. Call it good

Started sanding the out side and it is cleaning up nice. This is just 100. I’ll take the outside to 3000. It will basically be ready for the tank when I drop it off.

 

Well done, Bill!

 

Looking great Bill!

 

I worked for a guy who crazy about chrome and polished aluminum
I always said if I could chrome a pile of dog **** he would put it in his front yard.
Looks like I’ve found another one

 

Sounds like a good man!

 

I did a couple hours today. Hit that pan rail.
Before

then hit it with the 2” roto locs, 36 to knock the pan rail down to the same elevation as that steel insert, then 60 and 80. Then switch to Velcro backed 2” sand paper 120, 220. I’ll go further but this is good for now so I can chase the sides.

one side In 220

starting to shine. Bottom is saved for last so I don’t scar it up.

 

When you are done that thing will not even need chromed! Just keep polishing it.

 

Regarding plating sticking to MIG or any welding for that matter, no problem at all. I've seen the metal guys rebuild scabbed out early Vette rear bumpers that most people would call junk and my job was to lay down the metal. Big $$$ for that kind of resto work but people will pay for it if they need it.

 

Thanks for that add. I remember now welding up the bolt holes in a couple 69 Camaro bumpers and adding studs for a cleaner look. They chromed just fine. I'll touch up those pits and sand them down when I get to the bottom of things...

 

I'm on it! When I get finished it will be plate ready. I like this part, it aint complicated, aint expensive, I even bought a new pair of Dewalt Bluetooth Earmuffs, so I have music while I work and I don't have to listen to my air compressor play the same song over and over.

 

You be one talented sum*****, Billy. Awesome job.

 

Thanks, just finishing up a couple tasks then out to the garage for some more sanding/polishing.

 

He is, he also has an eye for detail
Now if I could just get my dog to stand still while he dropping a load.

 

No more pits.

Smoothing it all down. That bit is in 2000. Once I have the entire pan in 3000 I will screw it down to the workbench and use a buffer to cut out any remaining scratching. I think it’s very straight.

 

wonder if most of us would clear coat that !!--beauty!...

 

When I'm done it could be clear coated, but it wouldn't last long. This will be eternal...or at least till my time on this mortal coil is over.