I've got an open trailer and was shopping for an enclosed one. We also have a 20' lightweight travel trailer. The dilemma was how to get the car and someplace to stay in one package. We've had big diesel motorhomes before and in reality a good hotel room is cheaper than the daily fuel bill. I saw this on CraigsList: Ex city truck, 70,000 miles, it was about $1000 more than a 7x16 single axle enclosed trailer. I decided to switch it up. Now the car goes in the truck and we'll pull the room. Thoughts? Good idea? Bad idea? Good idea but you'll need to do......... Ramp is on winches takes about 40 seconds to deploy. I'm adding a small winch in the box instead of trying to get out of the car when it's inside. I'm thinking E Track and over the tire straps rather than the current D Rings and axle straps (yes/no?). Thanks
Basic question, what’s the weight rating on the truck ? City truck registered as commercial? If you do get it and distance driving, I'd look into a rounded box air dam for fuel mileage savings in the long run.
No reason that would not work, doing off-road stuff the past 35 years it's amazing what can be done with a little thought and ability. I'm doing the 40 foot pusher and an enclosed trailer so I know what you mean about the fuel bill... BUT it is nice to have a garage with you everywhere you go.
Rated at 12,000 it's just under 10,000 empty. 1,300 lb T and 400 tongue weight and I should be able to carry a few tools and spare underwear. Greedy CA registers all trucks as commercial so they can get the weight fee. The GVW also meant I had to get commercial insurance even though it won't be used commercially. Insurance was in reality cheaper than the Lincoln I sold. I don't think I'll drive it enough for an air dam to pay me back. It's over 8500 lbs so EPA didn't require an estimate. I figured in actuality it'll fetch 8-10. Real-World Average: Users tracking their fuel usage on platforms like Fuelly report an average of around 11 to 12.6 MPG for the 2001 Savana 3500 with the 5.7L V8 engine
Not sure from state to state but check into weigh station requirements so you don’t get caught up with issues. Being a straight job helps but don’t be surprised you get asked questions or cargo check.
Still might get stopped, so have your paperwork organized and ready just in case. Big Fed DOT crack down for violations / legalities.
Loose the ramps shown in picture , A good decent 12-18 ft $1,200 -1,600 ish. 8,000 -10,000 aluminum. Good tires . Add bigger oil cooler & Train's cooler . Trains kit for od/ lock up . Rad cooling ? Cab or box Air foal or cut box angle Not for hire , Add rest of side skirt . Shop insurance $40 month 8-10 with out trailer . Option Small turbo plan U can add black tank & sleep 2. Cailf might be stricter than other's .
My two thoughts might be the higher center of gravity- works for roll off trucks, and can you get out of the car once it is in the box.
Winch or side door like trailers have move to . Swing up , swing out thought a slide. You can lower roof some what easy 6-5 to 7 plenty ,
Also look into the best, most comfortable seats you can find. Don't think there's much "stretching out" room in that single cab. & whatever other long-distance-diving amenities are needed/wanted. . You could also look into sealing the front of the box n back of the cab, put a doorway in, + somewhat narrow buckets to allow movement(s). Then as 19edde30 suggested(his other ideas are good too), a small sleep n rest area in the front of the box. That T won't take-up much room, so may as well use what's left. Also as he suggested, round-off the front of the box. That area blocks a lot of wind. It does have sorta-rounded corners, which help somewhat, but better airflow is best. On a long mileage cross-country trip, ~ '81, Uhaul tested these out. Guys said it'd be best if the box was lowered & the "mom's'attic" was gone, but then they'd loose too much packing space... . Also, some turbulence-generators on the top back & back-sides will help with the suction at the back of the box. None of this has to be done now or yesterday, but it'd all help. While the fuel economy payback is nice, sometimes things can be measured in easier-towing & less fatigue driving. . Marcus...
Think like a rich man, act like you are poor. How many trips per year? How much time on the road and what is the cost? Is the drive in the big truck part of the appeal or is it just droning on the freeway between fill ups? Look at the point of the trip and focus the time and money on the good parts. Chugging along in a big old truck pulling a big trailer can be an adventure or a chore to get to the fun stuff. What's it going to cost if those support vehicles have issues? Is the transported car reliable enough to bop along the little highways or does it need the support truck? Could you drive until have to get back home and go back to work? There are storage places everywhere now. Drive until you are done, store it and next trip starts there? @squirrel gets something reliable, goes on both main arteries and little byways, camps or hotels, and fixes what's broken with what's on hand. Perhaps you have more time out on the road, perhaps less. One more thing. I used to live in So Cal and thought about trips. Everything is either North and up the coast, thru PHX or thru Las Vegas. So out and back tends to cover the same routes for a few hundred miles before you get to new adventures.
I like it. having a 19.5' travel trailer, towing them is like towing a parachute. no such thing as mileage. the truck will block any air hitting the travel trailer, so I dont think you will see much of a difference in fuel economy. I would probably cut the box down a few feet (unless it interferes with the ramp - or trim the ramp as well) then hit it with white paint and decals to match the trailer. does it have the 4.8? many of the box trucks got the 4.8
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