Technical Kilmat sound/heat insulation

I just picked up a box of 80 Mil Kilmat-not complete but pretty darn close. I know it is mainly for sound deadening but will it work for heat reduction as well?

Mike

 

Somewhat. It's dense and thin so insulating quality is not its strong suit. Noise yes.

 

for the floor also get the carpet with the jutebacking. make sure to get a roller to roll that stuff down and if its the foily topped on, add some foil tap around the edge to keep the gooey rubber in place.
on the headliners I use the foil with bubbles for insulation, you can get the roll at the homedepot.

 

That is what I figured. I am planning to use it in the doors and tailgate-***uming I can get the goo out of them and nice and smooth. I have the bubble foil stuff for the roof and the floor will probably get the bubble stuff on top of kilmat.

Thanks,

Mike

 

I installed NOICO (same stuff, different company, the older stuff didn't have a company logo plastered all over it, and had an option of a black finish, for what its worth, the foil cover accepts spray paint easily, I paint the firewall white) covering every surface on my 48 Plymouth coupe when I built it. Its on every panel that faces the outside from the p***enger compartment, including the firewall (except the outer door skins, couldn't get it in there). I did add carpet to cover the floors, but that stick on and press down non asphalt material is the only insulation in the car. With fresh air entering the car (door windows open and a fresh air vent), the car is comfortable in temps up to the mid 80s with high humidity. The car has no AC. After long days (6+ hours) in high heat, things start getting warm.
My 49 truck has the same set up, and it too is good through the upper 80s, but it also has a headliner.
We just put the stuff in only the roof of our "new" wagon. I'm doing floors and rockers over the winter, it will get the full floor and firewall treatment as well.
Cover every area completely, leave no gaps for heat to get through (I overlap the edges of the material about a 1/4"). Covering the floor with carpet protects the very thin foil, you don't want to break that foil surface.
Also, be sure the metal is clean and dry before you try to stick the material on to it.
The wagon roof, took the entire 36 square foot of material (had about a 6' wide x 15" long piece left).


The truck floor
Do not be concerned about covering double layer metal surfaces. The stuff cuts cleanly with a utility knife. I usually remove a small chunk where bolts may p*** through. The material will seal around the bolts, but it sticks to the bolt threads really well (and will seal the hole) if you cut an "X" and push the bolt through, but it sure makes removing nuts much more difficult later.
Used it on the floor, the firewall, and the roof as well. I think I used two 36 sq.ft. boxes to cover the entire inside of the cab on the truck.

I used the bubble stuff on my coupe the first time. The glue only held up for about 5 years. It wasn't fun when big pieces started falling off the inside of the roof going down the highway. The NOICO is still there, 8 years later, and shows no sign of coming loose. It is a royal pain to try to get inside of the doors, you can't roll it out well.

 

Whatever goes in the roof will get held up physically as well as just glued in. I have some of the 3M spray glue that I may use in addition to the glue on the kilmat. I also need to find a way to 'tie' it up just in case it starts to fall off. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel for the interior and am getting itchy to get on with it.

Thanks,

Mike

 

The bonding agent on the Kilmat will be the only thing holding what ever you put above your head, unless your ride has a support structure connected to both sides of the vehicle. If the surface the Kilmat is attached to is clean and dry, the bond between it and the roof was correctly done, it should last a long time (I ***ume the bonding agent on the Kilmat is a urethane based material and not an asphalt based material).

Anything you add below the Kilmat that is not supported by the cross structure is glued to the foil surface of the Kilmat and is relying on the glue bond to the foil, and the glue bond to the Mylar material the bubble stuff has wrapped around it. The glue is usually not the problem, its the bond to the smooth surface of the foil, and the Mylar itself breaking down (in 4-5 years). My coupe had no side to side structure, only the glue bond between the inner steel roof and the Mylar wrapped bubble foam material, and the Mylar started breaking down. Cleaning the old glue off the inside of the roof was a royal pain. At least, that was my experience.

 

If you are trying to keep the heat down inside , glue 1/2” styrofoam to the roof ! The heat won’t loosen it , like it does the heavy mat . It works great , and it’s cheep $

 

I used the Kilmat in my Deuce sedan and I believe it made the car quieter and helped with the insulation, the heat & air seems to work much better. HRP