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Hot Rods 1932 ford roadster phaeton door help information

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by continentaljohn, Aug 11, 2026.

  1. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 5,981

    continentaljohn
    Member

    Hey guys been looking for some info on 32 roadster door bottoms especially inside panel.
    I have been playing with a 32 Phaeton and it came with no doors or cowl. I had bought some door 20 years ago from Mr Tardel for a roadster i was collecting bits for. So unfortunately they are imported or exported ones so a wood frame and didn't realize they have a different striker area .
    So I bought some roadster doors from a buddy off his old hotrod.
    So they are off a channeled roadster and bottoms are cut off and door are 10 inches short but just cool to look at but not sure if I will cut them up or hang them on a wall lol.
    So I'm looking for some inter door panels with the bottom so I can make some doors work. 20260811_193133.jpg 20260707_082918.jpg 20251214_094904.jpg
     
    pprather likes this.
  2. ronzmtrwrx
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,897

    ronzmtrwrx
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You sure have some nice signs.
     
  3. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 66,084

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    John, are you against using gl*** doors?, with Wescott selling out and closing the doors you might be able to pick up what you need from Karl at a bargain price. HRP

    Karl Westcott
     
    Kiwi 4d likes this.
  4. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 23,467

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not a lot of good door innards floating around out there without a skin attached. Brookville might be your best option.

    I’ve got a pile of s****py doors, but it will take all of them, plus many handmade patches, to make a complete pair again.
     
  5. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 5,981

    continentaljohn
    Member

    @HOTRODPRIMER thanks for the reply I'm using all the original parts I can . So it's all steel american made so all steel subrails and very little wood and fibergl*** makes me itch:D .
    We had to sand feather in gl*** when installing Bow thrusters .
     
  6. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 5,981

    continentaljohn
    Member

    @alchemy yeah don't see alot of roadster door inter panels or bottoms. I bought a set of interpanels off a hamber many years ago but they also used the bottoms. I should make some dies and make the panels I need but time has been a issue this year and lots going on ...
    The red doors I have will need both inter and outer panels made and a full tank of welding gas to melt out the lead in them. They are wicked heavy.
    Since you have the bits needed for the insides you should just get the old flowerpot from me:D
     
  7. GuyW
    Joined: Feb 23, 2007
    Posts: 1,002

    GuyW
    Member

    Wow - mucho lead on doors is counter-intuitive for sure
     
    continentaljohn likes this.
  8. Karl Wescott
    Joined: Aug 29, 2007
    Posts: 105

    Karl Wescott
    Member

    The right front door appears Australian. The right rear door appears US. There is a difference in the back of the body AU/AS in that the AU rear body section is one piece, the US three pieces with seam fillers, similar to a tudor sedan. The door latches and strikers are different AU/US. I make latches, as does Brookville. Most of the door strikers (Vintique, Snyder, KNS) are shaped wrong, Drakes stainless ones are fine. The AU door appears to use a different inside handle than the US style. The AU bodies had a wood sill structure. If you are going to replace it (***uming you cannot find a phaeton floorpan) with a tudor or fordor floorpan. That will have the correct width for the wheelwells and close to correct floor steps for the rear seat. A United Pacific (5 window) or Brookville (roadster) floorpan will require a lot of effort in the back to make work.

    I agree with Alchemy that your best bet for door inners is Brookville. If you think you might go for their complete door do it apart so you can fix all the annoying (but minor) errors of the Brookville parts.

    It looks like you have some kind of fordor front seat in the car. This is going to end up being bad news if you ever drive it as the phaeton seat back mounted solid to the center pillars and provide a lot of diagonal strength (even if inadequate). You might consider buying a fibergl*** one as a pattern if you do not have an original.

    Good luck and get it running while you can.
     
    continentaljohn likes this.
  9. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 23,467

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I’d love to own it!
     
    continentaljohn likes this.
  10. swifty
    Joined: Dec 25, 2005
    Posts: 2,707

    swifty
    Member

    I've got a 32 Aussie phaeton if you need pics of any areas. @Karl Wescott has covered the differences between the US and Aussie bodies very well.
     
    continentaljohn likes this.
  11. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 23,467

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    An old restorer friend of mine (since p***ed away) wanted to relive his hot rod roots. He converted an Aussie 32 roadster to US style with steel innards, then put a Halibrand QC and Ardun equipped flathead in it. And forgot the fenders. The body didn’t have a lick of Aussie accent left when he was done.
     
    micksmith and continentaljohn like this.
  12. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 5,981

    continentaljohn
    Member

    @Karl Wescott thank you for the reply and all the information. I will reach out and get some of the hardware you make.
    I was lucky to find a American version with really no wood. The front doors are Australian as I didn't have doors that fit just the Channeled ones. The subrails are super solid being from a southern state it came from. I didn't have the seat back and this one is out of a 34 moredoor . I figured I can make it work but by the time I chop it up I maybe better to fab one up like the original. I will need to move the seat back a bit and will apart of the body structure to give it rigidity thanks for the advice.
     
  13. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 5,981

    continentaljohn
    Member

    @swifty thank you for the offer and would love to see your phaeton for inspiration is that the green beauty ?
     
  14. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 5,981

    continentaljohn
    Member

    @alchemy that's what my aussie doors are from a roadster project I had planned on building in the future . My 33 phaeton is a all wooden subrail structure along with everything else and really is charriage built like the Australian 32s. I can understand why he wanted more steel in his roadster with a power plant like a Ardun very cool.
     
  15. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 5,981

    continentaljohn
    Member

    @alchemy I tried to get the door insides from brookville . I called a few weeks back but no luck and waiting for a call back. Did your buddy get them from brookville?
    I have the ones from @povertyflats that I got off his buddy that was kind enough to ship them to me. Unfortunately they need the bottoms
     
  16. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 23,467

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I don’t know where my friend John got his inner panels. Might even have been US Ford pieces. He had a whole pile of roadster parts to scrounge through. I ended up with the s****s, but not enough to put together a whole door without hand-making 25% of it.
     

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