Hi all, Currently on the process of building a G***er/High rise and have a question regarding steering arms. Have this current set up, and don't get as much left lock as right due to the tie rod binding. Can I put a bend with a gusset in the drag link to reduce the angle at lock? Thanks for any input
That's a strange ch***is setup for a G***er style car, why is the frame 'Z'd then fitted with those huge leaf spring mounting points? A frame Z is usually used to lower the ride height of a vehicle. I can only ***ume you are working with a frame that's already been modified? As far as making what you have work you could use a Z shaped steering link with large gussets as in my attached picture. If it were me I'd be removing that Z in the frame and reducing the length of those extensions as they are going to see HUGE side load forces in anything other than straight line driving.
It's a odd ball show car, that the easiest way to describe it. It's a previously custom built ch***is, that's the desired look. I've taken this project on, after someone else has started.
Hmmmm, yea easiest way to get it 'working' is the Z shaped link bar I suggested, you want the plane of that link to be as flat as possible throughout its travel. Is the rest of the build OT? In my semi experienced opinion the whole thing looks dangerous, but when has that stopped anyone.
Guess I don't completely understand the issue. You said the tie rod is binding. On what? But the fix is accomplished on the drag link?. The first thing to check is that the steering box is correctly centered. In my mind raising the steering arm is better that putting a Z in the drag link.
The front tie rod END binds at lock. As the pitman arm moves, it rises, increasing the angle. Yes, poor setup, needs steering box lowered or steering arm raised. Or cross steer
I believe there might be some terminology clashes here. The way it is currently, as the pitman arm moves back the drag link is going to find the limit of that balljoint (tierod end) at the wheel end because we are asking the steering box end to rise. Risking levering the balljoint to seperation. Raising the steering arm at the wheel end looks like it would need raising so much it would put said arm inside the tyre, other options there are either a unrealistic single shear riser pin or a really weird stepped/curved upward steering arm.
The whole setup is cludgey, but if you don’t want to move the major components to better positions, I’d suggest a heavy wall tube for the drag link and put a curve in it. A gentle curve, not sharp. Of course your ability to align it will be greatly reduced.
You could modified the steering arm to take a spherical ball joint as per pitman arm end, even possibly raising it up a bit on the steering arm.
Are those overly-ornate spring hangers any cause for concern? I'd want to be wearing welding gloves and a hard hat to work under there.
How hard would it be to lower the steering box on the "Z" stepped frame? It would be much easier to modify the column linkage then the drag link.You could build the steering box mounts off the lower part of the "Z". If you choose to move forward as it is, I might suggest that you establish the required curve in the drag link when the steering box is at the end of its swing rather then at the center of it. I would rather see the drag link move both up and down through the travel, as opposed to just moving in one direction. With it moving in just one direction, you will create a huge bump steer problem.
I don’t support it, but here’s where my mind went. Thinking Chevy II/Nova (but knowing it won’t work)… But there is this with a 2” off set. Source > https://www.affordablestreetrods.com/dropped-tie-rod-ends-11-16-18-lh-and-rh-with-jam-n.html Maybe there something with more offset? But I’ve done enough harm as it is.
Barring moving components to more sensible locations: if you need to bend the bar to improve the angle of the ball joint at the steering arm, put the bend as close as you can to the ball joint. You want to reduce the bar's maximum offset from a straight line to the minimum. See https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/kinking-linkages.1348604/
With the angle of the drag link and how short it is you are going to have a lot of bump steer as the suspension moves up and down. Where are you located that the steering is on the right side of the car? And what is the chain for?
The bottom of the Pitman arm should have been at about the same height as the rear (fortunately fixed) spring eye, and a small distance behind it.
Because I'm stubborn, this is the answer I was looking for. Yes, it's a show car that's likely to be driven on & off a trailer, and around a show field. I'm in the UK, and that chain is just what was used to lift the engine in/out. Nothing to do with suspension.
Rich, your post states that you are in the UK. From my understanding, the UK has one of the strictest inspections to allow a car to be licensed and driven. From some of the UK based TV shows I have watched, even a car with small sections of rust can not be licensed. You might have issues.
Okay, with the caveats that it's a show poodle and that you aren't re-engineering the thing, I'd suggest to bend the steering arm. There is no reason the front of the drag link needs to be parallel to the ground. It looks like it's already a bit angled.
Heck if it's a show car and will not be a danger to itself or others, just have a third leg in the linkage. Flashy!!!
This whole setup is wonky, and if it was my build the first thing I'd do is chop the frame rails off and relocate them lower to get the end of the pitman arm even lower! Because it's not cross steer it needs to be lowered at the steering box so as the pitman arm rises it becomes more level and no chance of binding. Even better yet would be to abandon the push/pull steering and that way short drag link, and convert this whole thing to cross steer and mount the box low enough to get a flat drag link. Then you could keep the frame rails if you want to. I really dislike those tall rear spring mounts and I can't see a way to ever make them very sturdy. If it was up front where they'd be open a tube could be welded in between both mounts to brace them, but that's not possible at the rear with the engine sitting in the way. I'd reengineer this whole setup to make a nicer g***er and something safer
Cut the rails off and toss the over extended hangers as suggested . I would not move it far under power , scary leverage issues and correct geometry is non existent .
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