Restoring late 50's vintage 29 Ford powered by Olds Rocket. Does anyone know where the engine stamping is? I cannot find the thing, and I need to find out the displacement. It has a OL396 Edelbrock tripower intake, and from what I gather, this thing only fit the 303 and 324, not the 371 or 394. Also would like to know what is proper oil viscosity to run in a hot ,vintage, solid lifter motor like this. I was leaning toward 20w50 Amsoil. Thanks guys! Mark in Detroit
check the number by the Exhaust port and there is a thread in the tech archive about these motors too. nothin about oil though
Look at edge of the block third cyl back on driver's side - number five cyl - pad next to bottom edge of the head has number stamped . 49= 8A1001 TO 8A193864 H PREFIX = HYDRA-MATIC 50=8A194001 TO 8A568689 H PEFIX = HYDRA-MATIC 51=8C1001 TO 8C287312 B PREFIX = STICK THANS 52=8R1001 TO 8R214478 53=R215001 TO R549482 54=V1001 TO V355083 55=V400001 TO V983275 56=A001001 TO A385513
Ok, so if I find the number, can you direct me to info on displacement, or is it totally different for each year? Car has a hyrdomatic with no cooler, suspect it's a very early unit. Fins on torque converter. I will get to the car this weekend and check it out, THANKS VERY MUCH! This will really help. Trying to get all info on one sheet and written down. Old man had it all in his head, and he's been gone 26 years now. Mark
Unless someone changed the lifters and rockers they were all hydrolic lifter motors from the factory.
Hey DON WOW good to see you around again. Any of you new rocketeers out there whenever this man posts pay attention.
Suggest you drop the pan and clean it and the oil filter screen before winding it up. Buy some new valve cover gaskets; then pull the covers off and make sure you are getting full oiling. A long sitting engine and plugged shafts may make you think there is a solid cam in there. Early Rockets were also known for noisy lifter problems, I had several back in the day but it could have been just the oil quality then. For hydraulics use Castrol 20W50 for hi miler engines. For solids use Castrol or Shell Roetella 10W40 for diesel engines. The latest EPA driven regular oil formula is murder on flat tappet cams; the diesel additive package is still OK for them.
hey rocketeers i got a question about my 303. just behind my valley pan there seems to be a blow by or breather hole of some kind? what is it? i'll take pictures if needed......oh and i need the oil fill tube/ breather on top of the water pump and the thermostat housing really bad any help?!
The number on the block is V139841. Don Wow states : 54=V1001 TO V355083, and "54 To 56 =324" I guess I have a 324! Thanks so much , I have wondered about this for 25 years! tried to find Fusicks, no dice, what is the site??? Mark
if you block off the road draft tube you pretty much HAVE TO run a pcv valve. maybe if you put breathers in your valve covers,and maybe a couple on your oil pan,it might work i might have a thermo housing also,i'll look for it in the morning.
you don't need anything from Fusick's. if you need engine parts call Terrill Machine in Texas. if you need hop up parts ask for a Rocketeer.
Correct, "they're" trying to kill all non-roller motors with this **** oil that we have now....I choose to see it as a conspiracy to get all the old cars off the road. Nice talking with you the other day Jerry, thanks again for taking the time & the info and glad you dropped back in, us Rocket building dummies appreciate it. Brian
Thanks for the ref's. I prolly just need the oil pan gaskets if I drop the pan. It's been on there since '54 I'm going to run the Amsoil sludge cleaner in there , then drain everything, clean, and refill with the 10/40 Castrol . Sounds like a plan . EGGE also has some rebuild engine parts also, should I need any. I am trying to avoid going into the engine. It runs, sounds strong, and it's been together so long it would be a real project to tear into it. Car wont be driven too much anyway, maybe a couple hundred mile each summer. Thanks for all the help men! Mark
Were you able to find a thermostat housing if not drop me a PM with your address and I will get one to you in the next couple days. Eric
Not at this stage. It will probably find more ways to leak than you could imagine. Dont aggravate any seals more than necessary!
I was gonna wait and see what yorgatron comes up with cuz i'd rather though some dough to hamber if i can than buy it from a company so if yorg can't find one i'll deffinately PM you! Kyle
I have put a 56 olds 324 together many times now, looking for the problem I took it apart in the first place, and have yet to find it. It is a knocking- squealing noise below 1,000, with serious squealing at 500 and below. It will idle at 4-450. The noise is in time with the cam. The squeal is a metal to metal with no oil noise, yet I find no evidence of metal to metal. Any ideas?
On a J2 that I ran years ago, I increased to oil volume to the top end by grinding a slot in the block deck to enlarge the oil p***age from the hole in the block to the hole in the head. With a head off, look at the gasket and where the holes are, it sounds difficult, but when you look at it apart, its real easy. Then use oil like 286 merc above says.
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