Looking for info on Jag independent rear ends. Thinking about using one in an A frame. Could someone point me in the right direction? Thanks,
Rev - I had a thread going about a month ago on this topic and got some good feedback from our friends in the UK. I have an 89 XJS posi unit with 3.07 gears that I was going to use in my Merc but opted for a Corvette IRS instead. From what I can gather, this unit would need to be narrowed from it's present 62 inch width down to around 56-58 inches to work on a Model A.
Thanks for the reply, I figured it would have to be shortened. I'd seen it used in A's several years ago. I had an article in a hot rod mag that gave info on all the different jag rears. Ratio, width how strong each was. But I wound up giving all the mags away. Figures. How's the vette rear working for you? I wanted something that would be real low and handle.
I've got the series, even photocopied it and sent it to an RRT member, He added the tip that HD XLCH shocks fit and were 1/2 the $ of Carrera. What specifically do you want to know? Concours West, they changed the name to something else now, has all the parts and even a bushed mounting kit, Others were mostly solid, but sources like Speedway are drying up on mounting kits. Stock brakes are a pain, wish I'd gone Wilwood. I added Loc Right as posis not too common. It's basically a Dana 44. Narrowed mine 20", a little excessive, but won't have seat time for another year at least.
I modified a Jag rear for my street-legal supermod. It had the pinion offset 1" which was a problem as the driveline in a single seat dirt car goes down the middle.
In order to center the pinion in the ch***is I made spacers to move the right side suspension pickup points over 2". You can see them in this photo. There are 2 tube spacers at the lower frame and a 2" aluminum spacer at the brake rotor. This centered the pinion but made the overall length of the unit 63 1/2" from wheel flange to wheel flange. I then took 6 3/4" from each lower frame and halfshaft to get the overall width to 50".
Doing a 70 resto rod? Don't forget the cowl lamps, clock, and wire wheels sticking out of the fenders. Fake knock offs, chain steering wheel and 8-track for extra points. CB radio handset hanging from crushed velvet covered console above windshield for double extra points. I thought all jag rears were already under 70's Model A's..
In order to prevent any flex or windup from acceleration or braking forces I made an adjustable torque plate at the nose of the Jag center section. The 350 Turbo connects directly to the Jag via a custom coupler.
Phil can you send me a copy of the article? PM me and I'll give you my address. Fast, Thanks for the PIC's and the info. Smokin, Not into 70's but the CB's a good idea. You got an extra? Want to use a DOHC 4.6, 5 speed, Jag. rear in model-A style tube frame. Think Ill use a 30, 31 coupe body or what ever else I can find. Probably independent front too. Fenders and the body channeled partially over the frame, a bit of a chop too. Some of the **** I've never done before. I have a friend with a salvage yard. So the motor, ****** and lots of other **** are free to me. Ive made the frames before long, long ago. I know where I can get A bodies. A bit pricey but nice shape. I may still go with a straight axle and 10 bolt rear. Who knows? Want to get it set on paper and stock load the parts for the long winter.
Rev Colin, Smokin Joe's point was that Jag rears are traditional if you're building a 70s or 80s street rod.
heres mine the E type rear is the right width I still have all the arms as I only used the centre and the axles
Needed to add some pinion support as once the diff is out of it's cage it loses all it design strength
Jag front and rear ends were bleeding-edge technology on mid-60's rods. They became common in the early 70's, but i've got some 60's magazines with them in them. When I ever get some time, i'll try to find some pics to scan. I've kept them in mind, because I want to build a mid-60's cutting-edge Model A sedan, and XKE suspension was the top-of-the-line then.
yeah jag rear ends dont nececerraly mean=high tech billet mobile... think its kinda cool and "exotic" to use british car stuff in hotrods and customs.. i wouldnt mind having an jaguar 6 with floor shifter in an hotrod or custom mmmmm very very very cool engine indeed, heck i dont need a v8 to have fun. was in a garage some months ago where a jag 6 was standing on the floor, i fell in love... was out of a 1956 jag...
First thanks for all the replies. Nzsimon, did you make the arms yourself? Nice job. Anyone have any day to day as to how they handle and problem? I've heard of the breaking welds and **** like that. Figure they weren't setup right to begin with. Must be more stress on the frame being solid or nearly solid mounted in the center. Yes I knew they were cutting edge in the 70s Seemed like a good idea. They are around and can be had cheap so Ill give it a try.
No the arms were made by a mate I wanted the rear arms to look the same as the front ones besides that huge jag lower arm is way to big for a roadster plus all those coils make for a bouncy ride
Im using a 63 Daimler front and rear suspension in my T coupe is that then a traditional 60s rod?i was also going to use the daimler hemi but then id get the hemi police tellin me its not a hemi!,the front suspension also has a power steering box built in to the crossmember ,can you tell me how many hemi powered US cars had 4 wheel disks with twin piston calipers front and rear &power steering,in 62/63?none! so i suppose its not traditional,traditional is a look ,period correct is restorer at***ude from rodders! Rev buld what you want not what this board says you should !go jag !im gettin sick of people tellin others that their buil is wrong ,you should be saying **** yeah build it!not pushing points on correct years of parts,thats just my opinion,i care not for tradition break the ****n rules rev ,otherwise well all be driving the same car!
they handle well dont try and put a sway bar on the rear it just brings on heaps of over steer (great if your into drifting)what ever you do try and duplicate the original shock mounting positions ,dont try and relocate them in an attempt to lower the rear as it throws all the geometry out ,dont stuff around with spring rates and custom springs ,just chrome your originals as this will make em a little softer (true)its a lot cheaper than custom coilovers!try this first before buying custom springs,Z your ch***is to get it lower in the rear as the Model A requires a fair bit of thought to get it to sit low with a jag in the rear ,Hardy ****er can supply new lower controlarm ends and make em to any length its better than shortening fatigued originals(same can be said for the springs but spring steel is a fair bit more tolerant to work hardening ,ive done 3 conversions and have had no trouble with the centres handling 400hp no problems,try and get an exploded view diagram before pulling them apart as they are hard to put back together if you are guessing where that last part fitted,label em as you go and take pics if possible as you go as it makes it a whole lot easier to rebuild!only rebuil one side at a time as youll get all the shims etc mixed up if you do em both at once! forward arms can be made out of long panhard rods off any vehicle you can find!just bend em about 3"forward of the lower control arm bush and bend them in towards the centreline of the inner pivot of the lower control arms ,dont put em straight out in front as jag did as they had a big soft rubber bush on them at the forward end to prevent wind up or twisting,once you do 1 youlle never think twice at doing another!they can be hard to clean up and detail as they had a coat of tar on them to stop corrosion on salted european roads,good luck its not real hard!no harder than a ladder bar or 4 bar rear!
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