A girl and her truck, it's a beautiful thing... PART II

Your rear end needs prepped for install?? My oh my...
Dont forget to get some new tailgate hinges.
No, Not alot of room with the fat short nailhead setting in the rails.
I thought I was tight putting a 350 in my 50 pickup..
First things first though. Get the engine as high as possible and work from there. Now who out there has different left hand bank manifolds to chose from?? We may end up building a set of Zoomies for this thing.

 

I'm guessing the ratio tag was missing from one of the studs?

 

Couldnt read it. too much rust......
Megan tried the tombstone rub but we had too many different opinions.

 

It's not the most accurate or inexpensive option but on HD 4X4 offroad trucks they sometimes use hydraulic steering. might be an option if nothing else works.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/suspension/129_0611_hydraulic_steering_tech/

I am not certain but I think this type of system could be taken from newer tractors as well.


Or mount the engine in the bed.

 

Some of the roundy round suppliers have enclosed chain drive boxes that will change the ratio by 1.5 and 2, depending on which way you install it it could be used to quicken or slow down the steering, Just another suggestion from a raving lunatic.

 

I'll dig around I think I may have the manifolds you are after straight out the back over the starter.

 

The mini starteres are available from Tom Telesco, he is on this board as "telriv".
Have you decided what type of steering box or rack you are using? If so I would bolt it in place, install a starter then build headers to fit. There are more than a few kinds of stock style manifolds out there but not as commonly availabe as sbc. Not that you can't get them but usually no one close by has a pile of different ones to try.
Many of the early 60s Nailheads had rear dump manifolds, the 65-66GS had some that exit low in the rear below the starter, these show up occasionally on Ebay and may work. They usually go for more than $200-250 a pair (L & R). for that money some block huggers from Sanderson might work.
Raising the motor a little is ok but more than an inch or so will start changing you drive shaft angle and then you could be looking at ujoint vibrations. Moving it over an inch would hardly be noticable visually and may be the best bet yet.

 

use a GM remote PS set up, like those that came on sunbirds... the pump is small and the tank is remote. I think it would fit just fine

 

Great to see you back Megan!

I faced a similar problem w/ my truck because I wanted to run full-length tube headers. Granted, it isn’t a nailhead, but I think the priciples still apply. All the “experts” said headers couldn’t be done w/ power rack…. The pics tell the tale….

I began by finding a set of headers that would allow enough room to “snake” the steering shaft and universals through without compromising Borgeson’s recommended angles and clearances. Once found, I started working on finding a suitable steering column centerline location.

I started this whole process by already having my seat(s) and steering column so I could find a spot that was not only safe, but comfortable for me to drive. I used a long 3/16” dowel rod to experiment with. I knew the original column routing wouldn’t work. With the dowel, I could drill a small pilot hole to find the optimum location for the new column centerline. Once found, the rest was easy to fabricate. I ended up by welding the original column location closed.

Note that my headers loop around outside the frame rail – you may have to do something creative like that also… there’s more room there than you think there is… just think “outside the box.” Good luck gal!

 

Zoomies. Wear earmuffs.

 

I was just wondering. It looks like you've got the engine set really low in the chassis do you have it set this way for a spscific reason because it looks like you could gain a lot of clearence for the steering and exhaust by raising the block a few inches. I've done a few engine swaps and I try to keep the engine mounted low for a better center of gravity but there are times that one must make compromises. Just a sugestion as there will be tons of room above the engine and will put the narrowest part of the block (the oil pan and pan rails even with the frame then maybe you can get the steering through under the exhaust manifold. Keep up the good work.

 

Thanks, let me know if you find anything.

Wow and wow, this is just the type of pictures I have been looking for. I knew going into this it would be tight, but not this tight! My ever so helpful mama pointed out the other night "Why would you try to put a big fat motor in there when the one that came out of it was tall and skinny?" I told her because it is going to be a lean, mean burn out machine!
No, but in all seriousness I think that I am coming much closer to a solution. Moving the motor up and "thinking outside of the frame" should solve my problem and if Frizby finds some alternative dump manifolds, all the better! I need to put my rack in though so I can start using a dowl rod and trying to figure it out.
Thanks again for all of you help, keep it coming!

 

Hi sweetie, glad to see ya back at it. Looking forward to watching the progress.

 

Good news! The truck is on four wheels and it is a ROLLING chassis. No pics yet but what a mark of progress! Thanks Petejoe for the help!

 

Last night I got the master cyliner and power booster bolted in. Looks like everything there is going to clear (I was beginning to have my doubts since nothing else does). I also got the power rack put in and the engine somewhat mocked up to where I want to mount it. Someone mentioned having a center dump manifold they wanted to get rid of...where are you? It looks like I could really use one on the driver's side. Thanks! : )

 

You go girl!!!......Don't forget pictures if you can.........maybe Santa will drop that manifold off on the 25!! Good luck with the rest of the build.

 

Sanderson headers... how do you all feel about them? Sanderson has some block hugger center dump headers for a 401:
http://www.centuryperformance.com/detail.asp?product_id=SDH-BNH1
They should fit, I just need to measure one more time to 'triple' check!
Anyone had any good (or bad) experience with Sanderson headers?
Any alliance vendors sell these headers?
Thanks!

 

Can you raise the motor a little higher in the chassis to get the steering under the head/ exhaust area or shift it to the passenger side a little bit ??

This is why i am probably going to run a SBC in my dodge project. (the mopar motors are so wide it creates a lot of issues in a narrow chassis)

 

Boones, tell me it ain't so!!!! I can see no new hemi in your Woodie, but a 360 should fit fine. Please, please please, a Mopar needs a Mopar heart pounding away under the hood.

ChevyGirl - sorry for the hijack.

 

Boy does this take me back! In the late '60's the flathead in my '53 F100 took a dump so I bought a '62 401 Nailhead with a Dynaflow and stuck it in, that thing was quick but transmissions wouldn't hold up... go figure! I did run it a couple times (wednesdays grudge night) at Lion's Drag Strip in Long Beach and at OCIR a time or two.

 

I will probably move the motor up a little more. Matter of fact it is mocked up a little higher now than in those pics. And Boones, remember, if it were easy everyone would do it!
And Silhouettes, I'm sure it won't be long before the Dynaslow takes a dump. I just heard though that I'm going to need some type of adapter to put in a 400. Something about the shaft of a '63 401 is unique to that year and from '64 forward works with a 400. I'll have to do more research in that department....

 

A few thoughts:
What are you using for a column? If you're going GM/aftermarket, you can get away with moving the bottom end around a bit to aim it better. If you're using an automatic trans, foot clearance isn't so bad. Also, I stayed away from the aftermarket steering U-joints... to large and bulky compared to OEM stuff. I found the Chrysler and GM stuff to be compatible (same Saginaw boxes and columns), so you can safely mix and match double D shafts and joints/dampeners. I made up my steering in the '50 Burb FIRST, then built the motor mounts. The steering actually goes through the engine mount brace on mine, strong and looks slick.
As far as moving the engine over some.. thats good stuff. Some even had a 1 to 1.5 degree angle off center, meaning the engine was moved over but the trans tail wasn't. This was done for clearance as well as vibration control.
I understand we're using different engines and steering, but hopefully I was helpful.
John

 

I would like to use my stock column. Lux Blue gave me some instructions that seem reasonable enough to work by cutting it off and adding some bearings. Hopefully I'll do an illustrated tech on it if all goes well.
I'm in limbo right now waiting on my Sanderson headers to come. Brant at Kikinrods ordered them for me Monday, so hopefully they come tomorrow and I have a reason to be out of the house all weekend.

 

Raising the motor a little is ok but more than an inch or so will start changing you drive shaft angle and then you could be looking at ujoint vibrations. Moving it over an inch would hardly be noticable visually and may be the best bet yet.[/quote]

Totally disagree on raising the engine no more than an inch. If the crank and pinion centerlines remain parallel there will be no driveline vibrations because of the offset. That's what u-joints are for and they will take a lot more offset that the factory most of the time. just adhere to the simple rules of driveline phasing.

Frank

 

Back in the 4x4 days I recall trying to stay under 7 degrees from the drive shaft to rear end. I would think that would still be OK today. With the length of driveshaft you'll need, raising it an inch won't kill it, I suspect.

There is a write up in one of the latest R&C or Classic Trucks magazines on doing the steering column cut and bearing. I got them both this week so I don't remember which one I read it in and my thieving boys have absconded with them both.

 

Have a look at www.cenpen.com Sidewinder steering box.Might be a bit pricey though.While on there check out the cool belly tank.

 

The people at Cenpen are some of my favorite hot rod people. I met them this year at the street rod nationals when i was driving the ratty '37 truck full of food up to our hotel and they were like "that is so much like a girl to have that much stuff for 4 days!".
And they have cute kids.
AND a belly tank. What more could you ask for?
I will check out the box and I need to find that magazine with the article on using stock columns. Brant says the headers are on the way!

 

Megan what ever happened to this?

 

Still got it, ALMOST done! In the #1 project spot for this winter, just needs plumbed and wired. I was going to drive it as is but I'm thinking she deserves some paint

 

my wife wouldn't like it, but do you have a sister??(lol)