Okay can someone explain this to me? I hunted down a pair of 35/36 Ford spare tire covers to make cycle fenders. I then whacked one in 1/2. It was at that point that I discovered the different radius that the tire cover and the 6:00 x 16 has in relation to what I need to make a fender. The tire cover in it's stock form fits nice and tight on the tire at about 28 inches in diameter. However that tightness doesn't allow for moving the tire cover out for clearance to say about 30 to 31 inches in diameter. So how did the old timers do it back in the day? Can you re arch the 1/2 of the tire cover or what? Call me a baby but now what?
I agree that less is better. I have them cut in 1/2 now but the problem will still be there if I cut them further. The fender needs to have the same curve as the tire when you look at it from the side.
cycle fenders look better if they are tight to the tire. You don't need a lot of clearance since the fender is mounted to the spindle and moves with the tire/wheel. close is cool
I am not expert, but, when they used the spare tire cover, they used that similar diameter tire. When the tires started getting bigger, companies like J.C.Whitney started selling them....thats what I have on my car. Possibley look into bigger car spare tire covers like a packard for example.
tight is right. loose is .... loose. just for the record, to fit over 700.16s, get in touch with someone who does repro cycle fenders, and get him to roll up some 1944 indian chief profiles, with a bead down the centre. worked for me
Most guys are running 5.25s or similar, which with the tight is right philosophy should work out pretty right. I can remember seeing them with 6.00s back in the 60s, and they never looked quite right.
28" sounds fairly tall for a front tire. The one shown in the pic is 25" tall on a 5" x 15" wheel. Since the fender is a compound curve I'm pretty sure you're out of luck as far as re-arching goes. I agree that the fender should be mounted fairly close to the tire. One thing to keep in mind is that tire diameter grows at higher speeds. An inch to inch & a half should be ok there. Recommended clearances would be a good idea for a separate post if some of the guys who've run cycle fenders don't post the figure here. I've been looking around locally for a spare tire cover. What is the radius on the one you have?
get in touch with scrapmetalart over on the jockeyjournal, he makes 'em for bike tires. http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10746
I LOVE Cycle fenders! I'd like to see them come back in style. Glad to see some of you are doing them! -Mike
Theres a guy over on the jockey journal that is making new fenders(spare tire covers) with the bead. check the classifieds...maybe he can make a larger diameter for ya.
I heard old timers would take 36 ford bumpers and arch them into fenders too... they bumpers have a bitchin bead in em.
Helped a friend rebuild an old trailer that we put fenders on. It has 6.50x16 tires on it. We cut the ring to about 1/4 its original size for each side. It hugs the tire pretty close, but doesn't rub. We were worried about the curves not matching up, but with the fender this short and close, you don't notice too much. It works for what we're using it for.
depending on the tire you use, the radius wont match. Mainly those spare tire covers match almost perfect with 18 inch rims and tires. The closest 16 inch tire that it comes close to in radius is the Avon Mk II 5.00-16 balloon tire. Otherwise your going to have to 'radius' the fender by cutting slits in it, bending, and rewelding until it has that perfect shape.
If you need a larger radius, stretch the edges a little, smaller radius, shrink the edges. Either one of these processes can be done with a hammer. But, before you think of doing that, maybe swapping curves will work for you... If the part has too much curve side to side, and not enough front to back, you can squeeze the part together (front to back) to get less curve side to side and more front to back. The reverse is also true. If you have too little curve side to side, and too much curve front to back, you can squeeze (side to side) or pull apart front to back to get less curve front to back, and more side to side. You are swapping contours this way. Making cycle type fenders from scratch is a really good way to learn the fundamentals of metal shaping: http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/communityalbums.cgi?action=openalbum&albumid=9980191607382 John www.ghiaspecialties.com
Here is the deal on my fenders. I make a 36 ribbed fender 5 1/4" wide & the inside diameter is 27 1/2". They are 13 gauge. I even make the finger loop. 21" long $95, 29" long $ 110, & 44" long $160. I don't charge shipping to JJ members. Let me know if I can help you guys out. e-mail is scrapmetalart@yahoo.com Thanks, Craig
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