Stud Gun dent puller

Has anybody used the Stud Gun Dent puller kit from harbor freight? how well does it work compared to all others that are twice the price? I have heard that cheaper guns can burn through and warp panals because they get to hot, True?

 

I wanna know more on this too...bump

 

My buddy has one, not HF. I think he calls it a "SPRITZENAGLE"...works killer...OLDBEET

 

Don't know about HF, but this type of puller is tits.

 

I ordered one but havent recieved it yet. I figured at that price if I use it a few times it'll pay for itself.

 

i have 1 from H/F and it works good..never used any other..so i couldnt compare..it does get hot. tho..i use mine for pulling dents and also for shrinking..its perfect for shrinking..leaves a dime size red hot spot ....the one i have has a reset button on it..so it will only get so hot before it blows the button..not sure how it would last in a fast pace body shop..

 

I have heard that cheaper guns can burn through and warp panals because they get to hot, True?

Hmmm... never heard of such a thing. the only burn through I experienced was when I pulled the stud right off the panel leaving a little hole where it was attatched. operator error.

as for overheating... I have the H&S autospot 4500. costs about 189.00. it would seem to me that any overheating of the metal would be operetor error also simply based on how these things work. the operator decides how long to hold the trigger, and in doing so also regulates how much heat is applied.

I don't know anyone who has used the H F one. there is not much to them... how much you think you'll use it? might not be worth buying the more expensive models

 

I have some other brand from a body shop tool catolog, and it works great. If you use it on thin rusty metal it will burn a hole. Has the reset and have run a couple thousand studs through it trouble free.

 

Ive got one I think it sucks.I cant get the pins to stick or weld themselves good they just break off. The slide hammer doesnt hold the pins good and tight most of the time so as you hammer it just slides up the stud. But if you want to Ill sell you mine for 1/2 the harbor price.

 

If you ever have to use an extention cord, use a heavy duty extention cord one or it might not work

 

I have one, used it many times, works great. The secret is, you have to get a feel for how long the burn time is, and when to cut off the power. If you hold on too long, the stud will not pull/break off clean, it will leave a tiny hole when it does. After I got used to it, no problems. I also use it with a shrinking tip to shrink dents/high spots.

 

i used one for many years. but after a car came back 5 years later with the body work bubbling from rust i stoped using it. no point not to just punch a hole and use a pull rod. no one ever does any thing to prevent rust on the back side of the panel where it was all burned off.

 

Slag, do you weld up the hole that's left behind? Because that would burn away the paint too.

 

I have one. pulls dents and shrinks real nice. just have to reset when once and a while when shriking a large area. Like anything, it takes a couple trial and errors to perfect. If there are more expensive brands out there, I do not see how function would be different. H/F is just fine in my opinion.

Chevnut

 

the point is if your not going to do any thing to the inner panel might as well just put a hole in it.

 

I've never had use for a stud welder. I'm sure they are great for body shops, but on an old car, I'd rather use a hammer and dolly and a shrinking disc. If back side access is limited, cut away the stuff that is in the way and weld it back in after the work is done.

I'm guessing a stud welder leaves localized hard shrinks if it turns the metal red. This makes the panel less easy to smooth, and requires more filler...

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

 

that's what my neighbor calls his HF unit. wonder where that name comes from? he has some previous experience in the bondo carving industry.

i'd try to avoid it when possible, but in reality, not every panel on every car needs to be metal finished. my neighbor uses his on his clapped out dodge dart bracket race car.

 

spitznagel is a name brand of a hi quality pro unit.

 

Old thread revival time...I'm in the market for one of these as well for a new project.

This Motorguard unit is made in the US. I think the price is ok

http://www.tooldesk.com/automotive/MOTJ01000-Motorguard-Spot-Stud-Welder-Dent-Removal-Kit.aspx

 

I've had the HF one for at least a decade probly longer. The stud gun works fine, the knurling on the slide hammer wheel that grips the stud wore off pretty quickly.

 

I have used my HF stud gun several times...works good. The slide hammer is junk..will not hold onto the stud...I removed the end and welded n old pair of vise grips to the shaft...now it works great. I think it is well worth the 99 bucks or so that they charge for it.

 

I have an H&S unit. Works VERY well.

 

I've got the HF one. Like they've already said , the gun is great, the hammer well....isn't. You can't beat it for the price. Like wildturkey said, grab a $4 pair of vise grips while your there and the Hammer problem takes care of it's self.

 

I bought one frome Harbor freight and I had the same problem with the puller not gripping the pin. I went back to the store and the manager went thru four or five units until we found one that worked and just exchanged puller.

 

I welded a pair of baby Vice grips to the pullers end...problem solved.

 

Same deal here the slide hammer is not the best quality.I haven't seen anything but the Harbor Freight unit. Keep you eye on the news, if the people on the west coast docks stay on strike Harbor Freight may run out of stuff to sell.

 

I have a unit from "Dent Fix", that has a heavy-duty slide hammer, pro Spitznagel gun, lots of extra different tips, a 6" wide "maxi-clamp", extra studs, etcetera, all in a carrying/storage case that I'd let go for pretty cheap, if anyone's looking for something that will last...

 

so if you have a dent on the roof of a truck with a headliner....and you used this tool on it...would it be advisable to put the headliner before attempting such a repair...to prevent burning up the headliner?
or if you do drill and slide hammer approach...do you still weld up the holes or just bondo over it...this is a OT daily driver.

 

I have one, like it, nothing to add that hasn't been said. Practice and vice grips on the slide hammer.

 

It's the entry level unit from an outfit that makes a series of professional stud welders and some other nifty stuff including magnetic rulers. If close to 300 is in the budget I'd thinkAm it probably is a good unit. Get the JO1050 Entry kit plus kit though and pay a few more bucks as it has the same slide hammer as the high end kits do. Do a google search on the Motorguard JO1050 and save some $$$ tool discount has it for 185 and Amazon has it for 205 with free shipping. I see the next piece of shop equipment I'm getting.
For a lot of us it would probably be productive to buy the HF stud welder and seek out a pro quality slide hammer from a body shop supply house.