Where did I see talk about removing perch bolts? One bolt fell out and the other is froze in the axle. Reading a tech someone said they removed them everyday. Cant remember, it was yesterday. Bigger hammer time. Thanks for theinfo, it was the cold water. Saved both bolts. next time I"ll remove it from the Rod first.
penertrating oil and a air hammer use the pointy chisel bit works every time if nesserssary use a little heat
I used pen. oil, heat, and the pointed air hammer this evening, actually just came inside,about 2 hours ago, in frustration with NO luck!!! I will have to find a press tommorrow! I have the nut, and the spring mount cut off so hopefully it will press out with a hydraulic press?!?!?!
I was in the same boat, one side came right out with some oil and a little work with a hammer. The other side would not budge for nothing, I tried everything . What finally made it move was heat from a torch in a vise and a big ass hammer and a punch. The heat was the trick I messed around a couple of days trying everything else even a hyd. press, got nowhere. A little heat and it was out in 5 minites. Good luck, CBB
Make sure you apply heat, dead center on the boss area. I sliced up a beater axle a long time ago with a commercial cut-off saw to save the bones, ( which are on my project now) and when I did the cross cuts, the very center area of the axle boss is where the problem was on both sides. So, heat and the air hammer should be able to save both axle and bones.
While all of the above is true, I had decent luck on the last set I removed and saved the perch bolts in the bargain. Assuming you can get the nuts off, make a new pair from anything you can drill & tap for 5/8-18. Make them long enough (about 1 1/4") to completely enclose the thread on the bolt so that when you beat on them you're hurting neither the bolt nor the original nut. If the 'bones are going to be split do it now, then each individual 'bone will be a long handle. Wheb you get the axle hot in the boss area try moving the bones back and forth to rotate the bolts in their holes. Repeat two or three times before starting to hammer on the ends of the bolts. Liberal applications of penetreating oil in between heating cycles helps too.
Heres what we do at the shop. Just heat the axle on both sides of the perch till its glowing pretty good then get as much water on it as you can as fast as you can. Repeat this a couple of times and then put a large hammer on one side of the axle and hold it up tightly then with another hammer whack the other side a few times and then it should tap right out.
I could be wrong here, but the cold water thing may not be a good idea. Something tells me you are going to turn the axle/bones/perches in that area very brittle - martensite. I always thought that once you heat anything up to glowing red that you should let it cool slowly, or else you can make it hard and brittle as hell, possibly causing a safety issue down the road. My two cents - maybe only worth one.
Only if the carbon content is high enough to make it "hardenable". All steels are not equal in that regard. Short of case hardening in a high- carbon "pack", most garden variety (1018-10200 steels do not harden when heated and quenched. I don't know the metallurgy of a Ford axle but, given all the abuse I've seen them subjected to, I'd say they are not haedenable. quote=qzjrd5]I could be wrong here, but the cold water thing may not be a good idea. Something tells me you are going to turn the axle/bones/perches in that area very brittle - martensite. I always thought that once you heat anything up to glowing red that you should let it cool slowly, or else you can make it hard and brittle as hell, possibly causing a safety issue down the road. My two cents - maybe only worth one.[/quote]
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