Well I did alot of searching but nothing found on a simplel list of "bolt" on banger Speed parts. I got a stock (I think) 28 - 29 banger motor. Runs strong. I want to do some simple upgrades to it for some added power and looks. Some of my thought: 1. High compresion head... 5.5 compression 2. Self Fabricated or bought dual updraft or down draft intake. 3. Header of some kind 4. Change cam gear to aluminum gear 5. Distributor...what can I do here? Transmission ideas: I want to loose the stock ****** and put in a 3-speed top loader. Closed driveline is great for me. I am figuring the '39 styled trans will give me a little more gear than the stock Model A. Any suggestions? I dont want to go T-5...but may have too if the '39 style is a lost cause. I got a 4.11 rear right now. Will have 5.00 x 16 dirt track tires up front, and 7.50 x 16 or 8.40 x 16's in the rear. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Welcome to the exciting world of bangers! All of this is fun and mostly depends on the size of your wallet. 1. Raising the c/r is a good- not over 6:1 on babbit 2. More carburation helps- if you do a down draft you need a fuel pump. A lot of good running cars have used the stock manifold modified- Think about a VW or Jeep carb- a lot cheaper than the 97's. Keeping some heat in the manifold makes them run a lot smoother 3. Aftermarket exhaust helps, but not the most bang for your buck 4. Yes, get rid of the stock one- a fibergl*** one works good for me with a mild cam and a lot quieter 5. Go with modern point conversion, a VW coil, and 12 volts helps Trans: The A can be fun and with a little practice can shift pretty fast. Use the 600wt oil. Think about lightning the flywheel. The 8.40's are to big and will look funny. Stick with the 7.00 or 7.50's. If you have a friend who runs them after the other work is done see if you can borrow them and see how you like them- they will make a big difference on how your car runs. What your talking about should get you to around 60 hp and thinking about up grading the brakes.
I would stay away from the super tall rear tires, If you install a good cam you can run a good 97 or two 81"s. If you don't, see if you can find one of the two updraft manafolds, those work good on stockers. Switch it to 12 volt and run a good B distb. or an after market one, or a mag. Don't take the compression above 7-1, and check your bottom end and make sure clearance and babbit are good. If you can find an old header that will help. As far as the trans, see if you can find a B trans and install 39 internals with a 29 tooth cluster, that will get you away much better with the tall tires. Other than that drive it and have fun.--TV
This is great info. Thanks. ModelSteve: As for the manifold, then do you flip it when using a downdraft? TV: Good info on the trans....that's what I needed!
He's got enough VW carbs to choke a horse. A magneto is always a good option for a distributor, had one for the banger I used to have. Never had it running, but I had one.
Even with a 4:11 rear end, don't go over 30" for tires. You have to have a B bellhousing or an adapter kit with a different throwout bearing if you switch to a '39 gear box. A V8 clutch and lightened flywheel will really make a difference. Check out www.fsignitions.com for electronic ignition systems. If you play your cards right, you can built a hot banger for the same money it would take to build a couple of SBC's!!
The stock A manifold is already a down draft. The B is a little bit bigger to go with the bigger B carb. If you cut off the stock intake, plug the hole, weld it on the top (remembering to keep the carb level) instant down draft. Figure out which way would be the best linkage, etc. and use one of those VW carbs you already have in stock. Anybody can spend lots of money on these motors, to me it's about the most reliable bang for the buck.
Im with you Modelsteve, that is the direction I want to go. I even been thinking of running dual VW carbs; I like the look of doubles, what can I say.
Me again! Might be time to think about better braking! Also, as I said before, try to keep some heat in the intake manifold. If you notice a lot of the old after market intakes mated up to the stock exhaust manifolds- esp the Winfields. I try to do that on my street stuff and really makes the car run smoother. You could weld a tab up from no.2 &3 exhaust to the intake. You will also find that out here in Cal when they switch from summer gas to winter gas that a little fine carb adjusting will be needed.
I would really like to know how the progress is going with your hopped up four banger, and if you have fired it up yet. It sounds like we have similar motor set ups with dual carbs, header, updated ignition and 12 volt. I haven't started it yet, and here in Lubbock advice is scarce on the four bangers and goodadvice is even more scarce. Thanks, 30modelcoupe
30modelcoupe, do a search (top of the page) for 'banger'. There is a banger meet every month that has been going for a little while now, you will find some excellent advice in there.
Ignition: Start out cheap, and LEARN timing and the curve your engine likes. Then when you find an early Mallory or a mag or whatever you'll know how to set it up. Rebush stock distrib, get the good USA points, learn to time it and use the manual advance til you know your engine. Rebuild with original plates, not repro, and get NAPA or Autolite points, NOT the imported repro ones, and B ditributor cam. I can do a written tech on this... B carb is a cheap starting place with enough flow UNTIL you get into engine and put in a cam and so on...B manifold is FLAT on top and can fairly easily take a cast 1 barrel to Stromberg adaptor up top with original opening blocked...a nearly free intake setup! I haven't tried one yet as it's expensive and I have pretty good originals, but the Stipe NEW B cam and grinds based on it apparently produce way better results than regrinds of worn out cams, which are oft down to little nubbins of lobes. Trans--with an A motor, B trans takes some fiddling to install and you need to find and rework some other B stuff, plus you have same issues with radius rod and pedals, so V8 trans adapt might actually be cheaper and easier way to same end.
Don't let Bruce scare you. It takes a little work, but no big deal and a lot easier than most of the stuff talked about on the Journal. It is all done with stock parts or aftermarket parts. You don't need to own your own maching shop. Get a Bratton's or Sac Vintage catalog. Don't be afraid of your local Model A club. I know someone in there has aready done this. The big thing is to get the car up and running and work the bugs out and start to enjoy it. You will never be a fast as the sbc guys, but just might have as much or more fun. For me it's all about the most grins for the least bucks!
I caught an older gent on the phone today and he gave me the skinny on the chev head. I think it sounds great. Man I can't wait to get started.
just saw this post. Good advice, but I would repsectfully disagree from experience that no fuel pump is needed on a single carb if you route your hose correctly. I have never starved for fuel on my Stromberg 97 and Ansen aluminum intake. The inlet is several inches lower than the fuel bowl outlet. Make sure you use the shortest hose you can with no kinks.
I have two friends that have done the Chevy head conversion- both using the "kit" that is available. Both very happy! Most bang for the buck! Not as much power as a new Miller head would give you, but a lot more than a flat head. One of them is a full fendered tudor and it's faster than my stripped T touring body on an A ch***is.
1. any 12V points or electronic would be great. 2. T5!!! you wont know the difference with the 5 speed. Danny
Here is a Mallory with tach drive I machined the body and shaft to the Model A dist size. Mallory #243001 MGB
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