The Radiator shop I have been using for 15 years doesn't fix radiators anymore. But they'll sell me a new one. I went to a shop down the street next to the mexican tire shop. It was one big EPA violation and probably paid too much but didn't feel like shopping around. I did get real solvent based paint on my radiator though. There were scrappers cutting apart some old steel building materials with a torch. I think they lived in the junk piles. It was a whole weird scene. Planned obsolescence is the future. The future is now.
we still got one or two places where I'm at, but things aren't lookin good... almost everything they were working on were them new alum cores with the plastic crimp-on tanks. very sad........
We still have several places that will repair radiators and even boil out fuel tanks. You need to look a little harder to locate a first class place. Over the road truck and farm tractor radiators are still being repaired. Find out from a truck and/or tractor repair shop where they get their stuff done. I have to agree that most places want to sell new. But a good stout custom radiator, like a Walker, is too expensive to toss in the scrap heap. Then, there's always another solution. If it's just a split seam, repair it yourself. I've done that many times. If the core is leaking and the metal is thin, you're screwed.
Most newer rads are plastic now.....no special system needed, so they can be assembled elsewhere.....................New stuff sucks.
I am disappointed with my local radiator shop lately also. $500 bones for a fix on a '65 galaxie big block radiator and a recore on another of the same. That sux! I need a '67 ford pickup unit also at the moment. They want $200 for a recore and $215 for a new one and I called up Autozone and Advance auto and they both want $150 for the same unit new. What gives? Worst thing is that I am a dealer and this is supposed to be my dealer costs. Don't think I will be using them anymore!
You get what you pay for . I'm very leary about the new replacement radiators sold to the public thru many of the chain auto parts stores. If your going to get one make sure its a Delco, Motorcraft , Valeo or one of the original OEM replacements. Stay away from the ones that come from china/tiawan. Hell even the boxes look defective. Over the years in the shop weve seen the transition from repairing and recoreing rads to the throw away of today. You'll find differences between OEM and aftermarket rads ,such as the inside cooling tube diameter ,# of fins per inch, ect .This may not seem significant but it is. As far as the Galaxie costs $500.00 not that bad , especially if its one of the thick core radiators. Consider spending the extra and recore the rad from the pick up you'll have a system that is correct for the truck.
Consider yourself lucky you have rad shops around you. The closest one to me is an hour away and has huge lead times for repairs.
it a new world out there. I've been in the Glass business over 40 years and can't believe how many glass shops around that don't have a single employee that can cut glass. I'm putting an old dodge truck radiator in my GMC because I refuse to pay 400 bucks for a new one.
Um, no $425 for a two core recore. The big block Galaxie radiators 65-68 you have to threaten to kill someone to get a core for them. I had my 64 radiator redone from 3 to 4 cores for $250 from the same guy this spring.
Ya, I stopped by Hawkes last Wed. looking to have a new core put in the radiator for my newest aquisition ('40 Ford Truck), and I got the same pitch. No repairs, only sales of new radiators. I ended up driving all the way out to Westside Radiatior, hopfully they'll have it ready this afternoon.
I had mine re-cored in Bakersfield for right around $200. Went from a two to a three core, too. It was slightly cheaper than the new two core they tried to sell me.
Have the same problem around here, except there are no radiator repair shops! I had to get a new heater core for my 59 El Camino, new is not available, there is ONE place in Hayward, about 20 miles away, that recored mine for $100. It is becoming a throw away society.
Westside is the place ElPolackos referred me to (I think) and they were really fast, very reasonable on price and my radiator is still holding water (uhh, I mean coolant) years later. Dang, I hope that's the place Steve sent me to. Also had a moderately decent experience (read; didn't get TOTALLY bent over) at Hal's just down from the old GoKatGo locale. Slipperiest parking lot in town!!!
I have taken a bunch of old stuff (with copper tube baffles and all) to a place aroud here called TNT radiator. The guys who work there are super cool, and love to talk about the work they do. They even build radiators to suit custom dirt track applications. They told me they use lead to core em' up. They also said copper is the way to go, due to the thermodynamic benefits offered over aluminum (something about eliminating hot spots) You might ask around at some welding fab shops. You might get lucky and meet an old guy who used to do that sort of work.
wow, that sux. Guess we are lucky in Ohio. I know quite a few good shops that do repairs. Radiator repair must becoming another one of those lost arts....
Except those that want to use original equipment on there cars will be at a loss because of that attitude. I guess some hamber will have to learn to braze real good so we can all send him our stuff. On the other hand if you can stand the material on your old ride. Aluminum Radiators are far superior to anything I have ever used n the past.
Ah, the copper vs aluminum argument. I know this is O/T (sorta) but back a few years ago in the computer world there was a big argument over what was best in the world of air-cooling for high end and overclocked computer systems. There was a big argument over aluminum vs. copper for heatsinks. Someone actually went as far as making identical copper, aluminum, and even a $ilver heat$ink to do testing with. Basically the end of the argument stated that copper can suck up more heat but aluminum can dissipate it faster. So in theory, a copper tubed aluminum finned radiator would be best. With silver solder holding it together. My nickel's worth of usless info. Usta cost 2 cents but inflation ya know.....
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