what are you all using for a gasket between the body and frame?should all surfaces be gasketed or just near the mount bolts???do any of ya use fender welting on your fenders or just mount them straight on ???thanks and happy holidays
thats what i was thinkin chopperkid...ive gto a tractor tube that is nice and thick....no need to do the whole surface ???
If you can find some old 1 1/2 or 2 inch firehose you can split it and make a gasket to put on top of the frame. Prob. can find some that has been put out of sevice at your local fire station. Not too thick and works great.
To make the body to frame pads, I cut pieces of 1/4" nylon web reinforced rubber sheet into pieces about 2" x 4" using a sharp razor blade and a straight edge. I drill a 1/2" hole in them using a piece of thin-wall brass tubing that I filed to a knife edge. I put the tube in a drill press at a low rpm and it cuts nice clean holes through the rubber (put a wood block underneath so you won't wreck the brass "blade" by crashing into steel). Some of the older bodies had oak pieces underneath the floor to help support the body. You might have to either make new oak pieces or make steel pieces that do the job that the oak used to do -- especially if the floor is not flat, but the frame is flat, or if the frame is curved and the floor shape is different from the curve of the frame. In my '31 Plymouth, I used what was left of the old oak subfloor pieces as templates to make new oak pieces. It took a lot of work with a router and a band saw to get all the curves right and all of the sunken areas to mate with the sunken areas of the floor. I put thick felt on top fo the wood between the wood and the steel floor, and then set the wood part on the 2"x4"x1/4" nylon reinforced rubber pads (I think there were 10 pads total). That is how it was done originally, so I just duplicated it. In my '32 Ford pickup project, it's channeled with a homemade floor, and it's sitting on the same size 2x4x1/4" rubber pads. I glued the pads to the frame using "gorilla snot" (3M trim adhesive) before I put the body back on to make things easier, since I remember fighting some pads that kept trying to shift off center while I was putting the body on my Plymouth. I know on my Plymouth, the original rubber pads were 1/4" thick because some of them were still in pretty good shape. I think a lot of other cars like Fords and Willys used some 1/8" webbing type material, that might have been made of jute or hemp or something back then because I don't think they'd invented nylon yet. They sell repro nylon webbing stuff if you want to keep it the original style. I think having rubber pads might give you a better ride though, by absorbing some of the road noise transmitted up through the frame into the body. I bought my nylon reinforced rubber from McMaster-Carr. They sell it by the square foot.
It depends on the body style. Coupes, roadsters and tudors used a separate steel subframe that the body was attached to. These use the canvas-type webbing between the subframe and the frame. The webbing stops squeaks when the frame flexes. Other body styles mounted the body on wood that was directly attached to the frame.
Rod shops sell a 2" wide & approx. 1/8 thick green webbing (kinda like a army belt) with stickum on one side. $20 or so and enough to do a typ. rod frame.
thanks for the info rusty and all...i've got the right idea now..btw its a roadster with a homemade sheet steel floor..i'm going to call the nearest rod shop if its cheap i'll go for it...if not i'll make the squares...i guess the webbing would hold the rubber togther...like the fire hose...cool
Flatbelt..... such as hay balers use is great and low cost....is about 1/8" thick and nylon cord reinforced too...... Available at any farm and home.... Another low cost thing to use is old seat belts....tough as iron and no cost at all!
a guy at work was telling me he knows a guy who restores chevy pickups and uses...hockey pucks for body mount bushings...just my 3 cents
BCT....the fire hose is thick enough to put on without glue....just put some holes in it where your body bolts on and they will keep it in place. I have used it several times. Being a fireman I got it after we put it out of service. Try it...you'll like it.
Try this link: http://www.mikes-afordable.com/miva/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=MFP&Category_Code=1042 The correct materials and pretty reasonable. If you want to come up with your own solution you can use the composition and dimensions as a guide.
I'll never forget looking underneath an aquaintances 56 Buick mounted on a 4x4 truck frame ... those rather large body mounts looked awfully familiar ... yep, hockey pucks!
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