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What kind of primer for a daily driver?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Gregory J. Liebau, Dec 20, 2006.

  1. Gregory J. Liebau
    Joined: Aug 8, 2005
    Posts: 152

    Gregory J. Liebau
    Member
    from Kalifornia

    Hey guys,

    I'm interested in putting my car in primer for a period of a couple to a few months before I get paint for it. I cannot afford paint right now, nor do I have the time to do a good paint job. I need the car protected quickly. I'd like to know what kind of primer I can rely on to battle the elements and such for this period of time, as it will be on a daily driver. There will be a mix of old paint/primer/bare metal underneath the primer.

    What type should I get? Color possibilities for me would be black, or tan. Also, if there are any good red primers, that'd be an option... I know "Rustoleum" does red, but I don't think I want to use that. Thank you!

    -Gregory-
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,601

    squirrel
    Member

    I've had dupont Uro on my 55 for about 10 years, sees a lot of weather, chalks a bit but holds up well.

    I expect you'll hear that moisture gets into any primer and that it can't get back out again....that has not been my experience, but I live in a dry area
     
  3. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey,

    Since it looks like all you're after is protection I wouldn't turn my
    nose up at Rustolum. It would be foolish to spend good money
    on a paint product, and not address all of the paint issues under
    the primer. Spend the time and money now, or spend it later,
    it's your call.

    Swankey Devils C.C.
     
  4. Gregory J. Liebau
    Joined: Aug 8, 2005
    Posts: 152

    Gregory J. Liebau
    Member
    from Kalifornia

    Hey,

    I mainly pointed out I probably wouldn't go the rustoleum route because I put some rustoleum primer on a pickup body a couple of years ago, and it's really gotten a lot of rust since then. I haven't done anything but leave it in the weather, though, so that could be my fault.

    My dad also had a work truck in rustoleum primer and the moisture caused it to rust underneath. I do live in quite a dry climate (central california) but this time of year we have our share of cold nights and rain.

    I'll look into that Dupont, Squirrel, sir.

    -Gregory-
     
  5. Terraizer
    Joined: Jul 18, 2006
    Posts: 521

    Terraizer
    Member

    Use some type of Epoxy if you don't want it to start rusting. I have been using Omni epoxy for years and it works great and pretty resonable price wise. Its a lower grade of PPG paint. Also look into PPG CRE epoxy primers, it builds heavy and is really cheap kind of has a swede look to it also, you can get it tinted to the color you want also. Its a Commerical grade epoxy, about $60.00 a gallon for both parts.
     
  6. Freq2002
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 40

    Freq2002
    Member

    Head down to the local John Deere dealer and pick up a few rattle cans of Blitz Black paint. It's a flat black finish, but has all the strength & protective qualities of an epoxy base paint. Even the rattle can stuff is durable, I've been using it on my lil beastie for a few years and it works much better than primer for protection should a "couple months" turn out to be a few months, or more.
    just my .02
     
  7. MarkX
    Joined: Apr 8, 2003
    Posts: 1,232

    MarkX
    Member
    from ...TX

    rustoleum is only $8 a qt in most colors and flat black, satin black...... will hold up better than most primers.....
     
  8. Gregory J. Liebau
    Joined: Aug 8, 2005
    Posts: 152

    Gregory J. Liebau
    Member
    from Kalifornia

    Freg- A rattle can idea was what I really wanted, but I felt like it might get shot down due to the usual quality associated with rattle can primers. If that stuff works well for you, then I'll definitely try it! I have the capabilities to spray, but a can would be much easier because our shop is two miles down the road, and I never know when I'll need to touch something up!

    That sounds like the ticket...

    Thank you, folks!

    -Gregory-
     
  9. chopperkid13
    Joined: Nov 7, 2006
    Posts: 178

    chopperkid13
    Member

    PPG DP90. its a non-sanding epoxy primer. comes in flat black and or grey. can be obtained for your local body shop/ auto refinish supplier.

    we use it at work and the first layer from bare metal after media blasting to protect under the sanding primer. once it gets tacky (20 min) we spray with a higher build primer. but DP90 is next to bomb proof. and its made by PPG so you know its good.
     
  10. Thumper
    Joined: Mar 7, 2005
    Posts: 1,610

    Thumper
    Member

    Another vote here for the PPG stuff. We use it on boat trailers as a base over bare metal followed by topcoating with Delfleet urethane.
     
  11. ray
    Joined: Jun 25, 2001
    Posts: 3,798

    ray
    Member
    from colorado

    the only way to go is epoxy IMHO. get a harbor freight HVLP gun for under 50 bones and it will go on smooth and quickly, and give all the protection you'll need. i shot my 51 in epoxy 4 years ago, it then got pushed to the back burner, meaning it sat outside unprotected from the elements. it got a little chalky on the surface, but moisture did not get through anywhere. i ended up getting back to the car this summer, just to be on the safe side i stripped off all the old epoxy, and found zero rust under it.
     
  12. Leebo!
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 800

    Leebo!
    Member
    from Yale OK

    Chopperkid-

    A friend of mine that paints custom bikes HIGHLY reccomended DP90 as his primer of choice. What other primer do you usually top over that with?

    Also, Im a paint newbie, so what does non-sanding primer mean?
     
  13. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,790

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    Reading is fundamental..:eek: He wants to paint it, Blitz Black will have to be stripped all the way off to do this... DP90 or any of the PPG epoxy's will do the job for you and it won't be a pain in the ass to paint it in a few months....
     
  14. chopperkid13
    Joined: Nov 7, 2006
    Posts: 178

    chopperkid13
    Member

    well once it gets tacky you can spray PPG K200 sandable primer. you mix it with K201 hardener and spary it over the DP90.

    non-sanding primer is a primer you normally do not do body work on. or sand. thats why you spray the K200 on it after the last coat of DP90 if you wish to do body work. you dont need to spray the K200 if you want a primer look. before you spray any paint, sand it with 220 grit, put down some dry guide coat (not the spray can stuff) and wetsand with 600 grit. it is best to wipe the surface down with a clean rag and some 330. (PPG DX330 a.k.a. reducer thinner)
     
  15. Freq2002
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 40

    Freq2002
    Member

    OK, yup, thats true enough.
    Plus if you shoot an incompatible paint over it there could be disasterous results (like the paint bubbling up & falling off maybe?). So I should modify that post to say, lay down some primer, then a thin coat of rattle can Blitz Black.
    Most of my work has been done that way, a good metal etching primer, with a thin, but solid coat of the paint over it. Easy enough to run the sander over it when it's time to refinish or do some more body work, in the meantime it's sealed off & well protected.

    Not that I do this for a living by any means, but a concern I came across when leaving a bare primer surface wasn't moisture penetration, but when working on the car, if I got any oils on the primer it would soak in & was toast so had to be stripped & repainted. A thin topcoat, even a cheap one, can save some hassle, my personal preference is all
     
  16. Gregory J. Liebau
    Joined: Aug 8, 2005
    Posts: 152

    Gregory J. Liebau
    Member
    from Kalifornia

    Good point on the painting over it... I found the Wikipedia article on it, and it states in the "notes" section that John Deere says it can be painted over with other primers or enamel paints. Not that I'm trusting that tiny note there, but it's something I can bring up when I purchase the stuff. Also, Freg, your use of just a thin layer seems like a smart move.

    http://crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/John_Deere_Blitz_Black_paint

    Chopperkid, a gallon of that PPG dp90 costs more than the "Hot Rod Flatz" brand hot rod black paint, as far as I can tell. What would be my cost-saving benefit of buying such a product?

    I'm looking for a cost-effective primer that is not comparable in price to paint, because guess what? I'd just paint the car if I could afford that!

    -Gregory-
     
  17. Chopped50Ford
    Joined: Feb 16, 2003
    Posts: 5,854

    Chopped50Ford
    Alliance Vendor

    Epoxy primer. - seal it, run it and paint it later.

    If you are even thinking of painting it later, dont use anything else.

    DO NOT use Polyester or "High build" primers. You might as well run bare metal in the rain. Can anyone say "Sponge?"

    Epoxy Primer.
     
  18. chopperkid13
    Joined: Nov 7, 2006
    Posts: 178

    chopperkid13
    Member

    hot rod flatz is a paint, still needs a sealer and a primer layer underneith. if you wanna do it right, strip it to bare metal, DP90 is what you need. it isnt cheap, but it is the best out there at protecting you vintage tin. DP90 is our very first line of defense againt rust where i work. i would put it in the rankings of por 15 and powder coat as far as effectiveness for its given application.

    if you are leaving exsisting paint under, then you can use a quart of rustolium. thats what i used on my 04 chevy hood. faded a lil but did the trick.

    hope this helps ya out.
     
  19. man-a-fre
    Joined: Apr 13, 2005
    Posts: 1,311

    man-a-fre
    Member

    ppg dp or valspar epoxy
     
  20. chopperkid13
    Joined: Nov 7, 2006
    Posts: 178

    chopperkid13
    Member

    im also sure HOC or dupont has epoxy primer sealers too. i have never used them though
     
  21. luckystiff
    Joined: Mar 20, 2002
    Posts: 1,465

    luckystiff
    Member

    PPG CRE-CT. it already been mentioned though not by the exact name(there are otehrs in the CR line). about $60 a gallon for everything. corro-resist epoxy that is tintable to just about any color. it an industrial use primer and holds up well. if your local jobber is like mine he'll probably have to order it as it's not a heavy stock item in most areas. it would be perfect for what you are looking for. and if you really need it done most paint stores can mix you their products in spraybomb cans.

    do a search on ppg cre-ct here and you should find any info you need...ken....
     

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