This is my new project with my stepfather and will be a ongoing project for my 9month old son too. Where do I find replacement parts? I have done many web searches and there isnt much out there or I am doing wrong searches. I have been reading about taking the IFS off a mustang II and putting it on the 39. Is there a ch***is made that will work with the 39 (example a 70s nova and transplant the 39 body on the ch***is and drivetrain)? Thank you for your time and response in advance. R
hi, wouldn't hurt to do an introduction http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=18 there isn't really a good donor frame for those cars, it usually works out better if you change out the suspension but leave the original frame under the car. and a Nova doesn't even have a frame....only a front subframe... You might spend some more time searching the HAMB, there are lots of threads about putting IFS on older cars. It does take a while to figure out what words to search for to find what you want, though, so keep trying
Thank you for your advice .... here is my intro http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=151402
Go to www.ch***isengineeringinc.com and look at their products for your drivetrain and suspension. They make very nice stuff, and most is made in a bolt-in version for easy ***embly. I used to have a 39 tudor and it was a great car. Miss it greatly.
You are not looking very hard or correctly. For more misc parts than you have money to spend it on try: I and I Reproductions, or Chevys of the 40's. For a complete repro frame you can get one from Superior Fibergl***. Almost any supplier of aftermarket Must II front susp has one for the 39 Chevy. This is really the best option as long as your frame is decent shape. The big fenders hide all the IFS junk and get it down nice and low, and you get nice ride with disc brakes. For a modern rearend, a 58-59 inch wide one is what you want. Granada/Monarch or 57-59 Ford are about 58 wide, and a 67-69/68-74 Nova is about 59 wide. You can also use a 55-57 Chevy rearend, they are approx 59 wide. The stock rear leafs are fine with a lowering block. You can probably get better search results if you broaden your search to include 37 and 38. Especially 37 as that was a big change year and the 37-39 are all very similar. Go to a big show and talk to all the 37-39 Chevy people you see, also talk with all the vendors. These cars are not hard to do and there is a lot of support out there for parts.
www.chevsofthe40s.com www.fatmanfab.com don't even think about a ch***is swap. ch***is engineering makes a bolt in mustang II setup for your car. lots of good stuff out there for these cars. get a magazine or 2 and get some catalogs.
I just re did my 37 with all Ch***is Engineering stuff, it's the only way to fly. Prices are reasonable too......
I used a factory M-II on my 39 and it was a pretty easy install. If you have some welding and fab skills it is a good project. If your skills are marginal I would get one of the aftermarket crossmembers. Ch***is engineering even makes a bolt on kit. The 37-39 frame is a decent design. It's already boxed and is quite strong if it's not rusted out. Keep digging ,there are lots of suppliers for parts. Ebay is an excellent source, there is usually 3 or 4 pages of stuff. You've already done the smartest thing by joining the HAMB. There are lots of extremely talented individuals that can answer most any question regarding anything to do with old cars from welding and bodywork to engines and drivetrain to ch***is set up and fabrication. We even have artists that can visualize things that are only ideas. Welcome!
I found a mustang II for 250 should I get that .... complete car that is .... I am worried that all the replacement bushings, shocks and such will push the cost to the point of just getting the hub to hub kits ... your alls thoughts? I was thinking of getting the bolt on cross member and using the donor for the rest of the parts..... thoughts ideas?
I've done it both ways and if it was me I'd go with all new stuff. It costs more but you only do it one time.
Just to help avoid some confusion, I just wanted to mention that there are two companies called Ch***is Engineering. One sells streetrod parts and the other one sells drag racing stuff. Two completely different companies I think. Here's the one that sells streetrod stuff: http://www.ch***isengineeringinc.com/ Another place you might want to check with is "Fatman Fabrications".
I put a mustang 2 front in in my 40 Chevy. The front end was cut from a 79. We used a plasma cutter and a stick welder to put it in the car. The frame is pretty solid on the front of these old Chevys. I have some plans I got from a hot rod shop. If you want to send me a P.M with your address I'll send a copy( if I can find them) Mick
Get the donor car. A Must II front end rebuild kit is like $125-140 for everyting you need, new shocks are cheap. Get a big brake kit for about $275-300, and the aftermarket crossmember will be an easy set-up that works great. You might be able to even use some of the other parts off that donor car, such as the brake booster and master cyl, the swing pedal set-up (if you want a hanging pedal), the parking brake handle ***y, or the front sway bar makes an excellent rear bar. You might even be able to part out some of the remaining car for a few bucks to recoup some of your investment. The aftermarket crossmember will make it much easier than adapting the stock crossmember, although it can be done, depending on your skills. There is no real reason to spend big money for tubular A-arms and other parts that you will not see.
OK latest developements: The 78 Mustang II I found for 350 is now down to$ 175 My question here is ... Is everyone saying get it for all of the suspension parts less crossmember and buy a boltin member and transplant all the Mustang II stuff? thanks again!
the mustII stock c/m is a good unit but you need the skills to install it. i doubt the need for a larger rotor. the mustII caliper has a larger piston than the GM metric so you dont need a larger rotor to get the same amount of stopping power.all you need is a pair of rotors from speedway with the bolt pattern you want. i like the t bird power rack quicker ratio and works with the gm pump. the floor mount m/cyl ,power booster is a pain. 7" booster to small to be effective, and is the lowest piece on the car.there,s a reason cars have large dia. boosters on the firewall. they work.
I'll be there are a few guys who would argue that point....those stock rotors are pretty small for a 3000 lb + car
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