mustang II IFS in '49-'54 chevy

Hey.........I got a '51 Chev, and a stock Mustang II IFS from a donor car. I want to install it as a unit. I have seen some examples and they look great. Any info appreciated....Ole Pork

 

Can only offer advice - get an aftermarket crossmember. These are set up so you get the proper anti-dive and other specs. Plus they look better.

 

This is OT but sounds like you are gonna do it anyway .....
Go ahead and use the stocker.....
It will work fine and fits like a glove....after trimmed correctly.
THEMUSTII subrails need to be trimmd from X member-
[less than an hours work]

It can't be seen on a lowered car anyway.
we Used to use the stock crossmembers in the past and they work fine,

That was before the hotrod books and their advertisers decided to sell you a homemade one in three or four peices and tell you it was much better........
The fact that the stocker is just thin metal is irrelevent, as it will be welded to almost the same "thin metal
that is original on a '49 frame.
A custom crossmember, being thicker- will not be an improvement As it will be welded to the same thin frame itself.....

 

Why?

 

Be sure to weld up the frame.
The tophat style frame is only tacked from the factory.
I bought a 52 that had an added MII.
IT actually ripped the frame open.
cost more to fix the problems than it would have to put one in correct the first time.

Craig

 

if you plan ahead and measure enough you can trim to fit and notch at the bottom a i/4" slot or so and slide the c/m in from the front so you dont have to cut the frame lip off to bring it up from the bottom. ride height will be determined by how deep you sit the c/m into the frame. you can only go so deep then the lower arm comes up and hits the frame. this requires c notches for the rack. there is absoulty nothing wrong w a stock c/m i prefer them as the relationship between the upper and lower arms is maintained. something not all after market units do.

 

I helped a buddy do this swap a few years ago who wanted to save bucks by using the stock cross member.

It worked fine BUT was NOT low enough. He bought dropped spindles to get it down but the car still was not low enough. If you don't weld, buy the bolt in aftermarket unit.

 

This is my after market TCI crossmember installed and welded.

Yes, I crushed a can of beer under it...universal tool of measurement and proportion!

 

dropped spindles are a poor way to lower a car. the c/m become the low point on the car. raising the c/m at the time of the install is the way to go. you need a (slam) c/m to go low. this will require c notching the frame rails for the rack. you should also look for a c/m with angled rack brackets to tilt the rack to improve the steering shaft alinement

 

Fatmans makes an Ultra-low X-member.
Has anyone installed one?
Does it require a c-notch?

Lindsay

 

got the FATMAN ultra low in my 49. it requires a C notch to clear the rack. no big deal.

anybody got a picture of the stock mustangII set up? preferably out of the car. I'd like to see what it looks like.

 

Iv'e done two of those in Chevys with top hat frames. I will never weld one in again! both cars developed cracks in the frame around the welds. My belief is the thin metal G.M. used to make that style frame is not suited to this style of swap. Use an aftermarket bolt in M2 frontend. They actually strengthen the frame where installed and makes it safer. Use the front end you have for parts,arms springs,etc. Normal Norman

 

Yes I'll take a pic of it in the AM

 

i went with a jim weimer rod garage ifs kit, easy instructions if you know how to weld, was going to use the mustang II i bought but it looked like a lot of work.

 

I couldn't imagine trying to weld in a "stock MII" suspension...such crud, such crust, such...not meant for re-welding in another frame...

You need to read this:

http://www.marcnischan.com/chevy/chevy3.html

 

this had the Fatman ultra low crossmember and 2" dropped spindles.