Got a heavy deuce axle that the king pin holes are egged out,any suggestions on what kind of bushing to use and where to get them.Thanks in advance.
might wanna stick weld them and have them milled out? i dont even know if you can do that though.....
think im going to get 2, 15/16" od bronze 2 1/4" long 3/4" id and drill the ends 15/16" and ream to 13/16 pin'thinking the bronze should be fine in the axle since it works in the spindle,that all i can come up with.
I have an axle that is a worn on one side I was wondering the same thing is there a way to fix it? I hate to s**** it for it being .055 out on one side. CBB
Josh Mills did a good tech article on this in Old Skool Rods a while back (hard to believe, I know). Basically, he milled the holes oversize and then press fit bronze sleeves. Seems like a good way to do it if you have acess to a mill.
Since the king pins do not turn in this application, there is no need to do a ton of work boring and re bushing the axle king pin boss. I am ***uming that there is a little wiggle in the eye that you want to take out, that eye has a good deal of material and can be easily swedged tighter by installing an old king pin and striking the end of the axle with a sledge hammer. While this might sound crude, you can work the end to get it slightly tighter and round again in a couple minutes. The next step is to drill and tap a hole for a 3/16 set screw in the end of the axle. This hole should be sightly above center of the king pin lock hole in the end (not side) of the axle boss. Clean your axle up, put in new bushings in your spindles and install the spindles, king pins and pin locks. Now rotate the spindle to expose the 3/16" hole and install a set screw, tighten up. This locks the king pin against the king pin lock and prevents the pin from moving and you are good to go. While this might sound rather crude it is a simple way to remove king pin wiggles in about 30 minutes with out having the additional expense and time consuming machine work.
I gotta say this is the way I was trained to repair these but I hesitated to post it last night because it sounds so crude. If it's good enough for **** it's good enough for me. Used it on a lot of pickup axles. Used just the set screw if the play was minimal. On real loose ones we heated the end with a torch and worked them with a good sized hammer with a sledge as a dolly and either drove an old kingpin through the boss or sometimes reamed them after they cooled. Like I said I used this method on a lot of pickup axles and never had any problems.
I was going to mention this, but I didn't think anyone would take it seriously. Every once in a while, they have some useful info.
You can split um on the ends with a torch then hammer them together and reweld the ends, then drill um out to the original size. A carriage maker showed me this way.. happy new yrs ...ancientiron
we did this quite often at the spring shop i used to work at. we'd usualy just bored the opening oversized (and ROUND) and pressed in a sleeve or sometimes an oversized bushing in the hole. then we reamed the bushing to the right size taking out just a little at a time till the fit was where we wanted it. most suspension shops that work on heavy trucks should have the setup to do it for you. it's not too big of a job with the right equipment (ie, the reamers and jigs).
I don't think I'd be doing THAT to any axle I owned. That would be about the ultimate test for any weld you could make in that location!!!!