i've already searched through the old posts about suicide front ends but didn't really see anything that would help me in my situation. i'm building a t bucket and i'm to the point where i want to mount my front axle. the problem i'm running into is that i'm using a 40's merc front end that is really wide, the bones are too wide for the spring. sould i just mount the spring further back on the wishbones like in the first pic? or should i weld a mount onto the axle itself like the second picture? the third picture is the axle i'm using. any imput would be a big help.
It is really a matter of personal preference. With the spring further back and off the bones you may run into trouble with radiator mounting. This is how my front end is done. I had to rework the rad. lower neck to get around the spring and x-member. Also be sure your spring mounts are real strong. With the spring in front you will not have as much clearance issues. PM me your email address if you want some pics. of my front end. Not MY front end, The CAR'S front end!. MIKE.
I'm with Mike on this one...the further back you go the more problems you have with clearance. Also, I've found that the ride and handle are different than mounting out front. Like Mike said, make your mounts as strong as possible.
www.speedwaymotors.com Just get the correct spring that you need. My buddy is using the same front end (but he has the spring), and he was looking at flipping the eye, think he found it in speedway (posies or something like that...)
better yet, try this link..... http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Product.aspx?paging=yes&dept_id=323&display_id=841
Yea just run a longer spring, problem solved. The other options will also work. I prefer my spring as close to the axle as possible. But I've seen 'em run way back and hidden for all intents and pusposes. But back to it I would just run a longer spring. You'll thanks yourself in the long run.
thanks for the posts so far. i didn't really want to run the spring that far back but it was an option. also no one mentioned welding perches to the axle and using those. and how could i get a custom length spring from speedway?
In their catalog, the is step by step instructions on how to order your springs.... Grab a catalog and start drooling, errr, I mean ordering.....
Speedway has instruction's with picture's for measuring a spring in there in there streetrod catalog.GREGG
I used a posies super slider spring. Then figured out how much longer the main need to be and went down to my local spring shop. They made me a new main leaf. Cost = $35. You have a spring already? Take it to the shop with the #s.
i don't think i can find someone to make a new main leaf here in kalispell. so does anyone know where i can order one from?
Yea we can get you one twisted out here in KC. There is another option just get a Merc main leaf or a Ford as they are probably the same length. Can't be that hard to find maybe someone here even has one.
i'm still curious about welding to the axle. whats the downside to it? the must be a reason why it isn't done that often.
i too am building a t modified and am using a 40 ford axle with late 40's split wishbones.i used a model a spring with the reversed eyes welded to the wishbone and everything seems to look/work just fine.i'm with these guys though,you dont want to go too far back on 'em...heres a pic oh yeah,all props to Skoty Chops Kustoms for the set-up....
Any problem with the tires hitting/rubbing the bones??? we are running into that problem with the same frontend and the '34.......
That front end in picture no. 2 is on my model A. The spring mounts are welded to the axle and work very well. No clearance problems. Didn't do the welds myself, but I check them frequently. No problems there.
i thought i got that picture off of here but i wasn't shure. has anyone else done this? and what kind of weld was used?
About 99% of t-buckets have spring plates/batwings welded to the axle. The fact that you have a I beam rather than tubular axle is just a matter of the shape of the plate/bracket. Maaaany years ago when I was involved in oval track modified racing it was a common and excepted practice to weld spring brackets to I beam axles. I have seen axles bent into almost a u-shape, as a result of wrecks, and the brackets held up fine. (can't say the same for the spring, tie rods etc. though )
I'm using a front parallel spring from a 48 ford pu... 3/4 ton I think. It was the perfect width. I'm using a 46 coupe axle/wishbones split.
If you move the spring back in relation to the axle, you are extending the moment arm; it will take less of a bump to get an equal spring action as a larger bump with the spring closer to the axle. It's just like using a 18" breaker bar instead of a 12" ratchet, you do it to apply more torque with less force. Considering that the axle is partially "rotating" around the bone to frame mount, it's a similar action... Moving the spring closer to the pivot will give the axle more mechanical advantage to pull on the spring; it would likely translate into a bouncier ride compared to the spring closer to the axle. I would probably just sell off the spring, it looks in good shape so it shouldn't be hard to get a decent price for, and get a new one the right length and be done and confident with it.
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