If money was no object, what is the best spray gun to buy for automotive painting. I'm talking top coats not primer. I would like a brand and model number and why you think it's the best. I have used a Binks #7 for the past 30 years and it's time to update to HVLP. Since we have some of the best painters in the world on the HAMB this seemed like a good place to ask this question. Brian
I have Sata's. They were recommended to me by jon Kosmoski as being as good for candy and pearl as the old high pressure guns. At the time, that was unusual for HVLP. If you've only sprayed with high pressure guns, you'll have to re-learn how to paint again!
I'm not a professional painter, but I'm considering buying a high quality spray gun soon for painting car parts and potentially entire cars in the future. Right now I'm leaning toward a Iwata. My recent research shows that Sata and Iwata are the two big names in serious automotive painting. Deluxe
I know this dude who swears by those cheap $25-$35 swap meet guns. I've seen a few of his jobs & they do look great. His logic is that at the price, when it starts to give you trouble, can it & buy another. Just my two cents. I'm sure you get what you pay for.
What is different in spraying technique from the high pressure guns to the HVLP guns? Keep the comments coming-great info.
After 30 years of painting with a Binks 7 , your going to be in for a big awakening. The Iwata lph 400 gets our vote . Much of what makes a good hvlp or lvlp spray gun is in the air cap. These guns have a higher paint transfer efficientcy. (the Binks 7 25/30 %, hvlp/lvlp guns 55/75% approximate #s). You'll find this tranfers to a lesser material cost because more paint goes on the object instead of in the air. With good clears @ $150.00 + per gal , and with some basecoats and primers exceeding this per gallon cost .The guns pay for themselves in a short time. Make sure you get familair with the intricacies of painting with one of these guns before you undertake any big projects. best of luck
Has anyone here used the new reduced pressure guns? Are they easier to learn than the HVLPs, when switching from a gravity feed gun?
You are transferring more material per p***, and this means you need to be RIGHT on top of the flow-out by knowing--)1 the material (characteristics/feel)-)2 the reducer (usually a little slower grade)-)3 the air volume thru the gun+plus pressure setting. overspray
i use the Sata Jet RP gun with a 1.4 tip. its working awesome for me and i've painted base clear coat jobs with it and also Dupont Imrons
I have painted with Iwata LPH400 and Sata Jets. I love them both. I own 2 Iwatas because it came down to how they felt in my hand. You can't go wrong with either one, put each one in your hand and go with the one that feels best as far as balance and how well you can move it around in your hand to reach tight spots. Still it comes down to the painter, my paint jobs look the same with a cheap gun that is maintained and cleaned properly as they do with my Iwata.
i have found that hvlp guns can not lay down metalics, flake or pears as well as a regular siphon feed devilbiss JGA with a 1.4 tip when it comes to clearing I have tag teamed a few limos me with a regular Jga 1.6 tip and other guy with latest high tech sata hvlp and he used more clear and had a dry tecture to his side.
Anybody ever use one of those PLUS high efficiency guns? They sound more efficient than conventional HVLP guns, but run higher pressure.
Iwata Lph 400 1.4 tip for base coats and a 1.3 for High solids clear. I would see if you could demo a few guns from your paint jobber. I always demo one for a week or two. Sata do spray good but I also like the feel of the Iwata beter. A 1.4 is probally the best all around gun if you only buy one.
I spray with a Sata RP 2000, usually a 1.3 tip for most base/clear jobs, it also handles pearls like there is no tomorrow. I have a Devilbiss setup for prime and heavy flake jobs as well. Can't beat either in my opinion.
I prefer the feel of the Iwata,smaller,lighter.Very economic (important when you are a poor guy like me).But I don't recommand their cup,it ****s. I use a lph400 with 1.4.
I just bought a Sata nr 2000 digital 1.3 .Works good. Tried a digital rp 3000 1.3 ,liked it much better than the 2000 nr. Wish I bought the rp 3000 instead. Still love my old OMX Devilbiss.
i use the devilbus gti hvlp and it works great for me i thought of trying a sata but i never noticed much change as i upgraded guns in the past. i think once you get to know your gun they all do the job. i never would try a swap meet gun. at the price of material why go cheap there. as far as the binks 7 that went out with laquer paint but it was the gun to have in the day. when i upgrade to a newer gun i always use my old gun for primers i never spray primer from my top coat gun, i guess that comes from the old days when you could leave primer in a gun for days and still use it.
I've used Sata's, Binks, Sharpes, Iwatas, DevilBiss & every kind of cheap NAPA guns. Each one sprays well, in there own right. I personally, have a set of Devilbiss. A GTI, PLUS & STI, touch up. All came in a kit I purchased thru the shop/ jobber. The most versatile part of this kit is that, it comes w/ 5 tips & they all interchange. Without having to change needles/ aircaps. My PLUS came w/ a 2.2 tip, talk about high build. The GTI came w/ a 1.2,1.3, 1.4 & all work flawlessly for bases, mids, pearls, candies & high solids clears. We've also got a set of Sharpe ***anium guns. One's a 1.3, the other a 1.5. These are also good guns, lightweight, great pattern, etc. I've used all of these on production type blend/ match work & overalls/ custom work. Not to mention the cheapies that I use on grill guards, rock sliders, suspension, etc. They all work for what they were intended for.
I've also used the Iwata LPH400 @ my certification cl***. I fell in love w/ it. All I used it for was the clear, w/ a 1.2 tip & a 3:1 high solids clear. Man, that thing laid it out. I haven't been able to keep enuff cash to get me one, since I like to buy things for my truck, etc.
I've used a Sata nr95 for years and have had good results. However, I have had many recent opportunities thru one of my shops to use a Iwata LPH 400, and I'm definately impressed. I'm planning to get one in the next few months myself. They claim that it is double atomized. What ever it does, it works. I don't buy new equipment on whims, if I got something that works, I dont' trade up until something proves itself. I've been using sharpes for base coats for awhile too, a solid gun at a resonable price. Once I get a LPH 400, I'll probably use the sata for candies and pearls, sharpe for solids. Buy the way, if your doing any graphics or small shooting jobs like door jams, the LPH 50 or 100 is great for small jobs. The sata mini jets shoot just as good, but the swiveling cup on the iwata makes it nice for akward angles.
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