I am thinking of using a TH200-4R in my Model A CCPU. I know that the basic outside dimensions are very similar to my TH350, and the mount location is approximately 6.5-7 inches farther back. my question is about the electronics... What is absolutely necessary to make the overdrive work? In my 38 I am using a 700R4, and all that is used is a different 4th gear pressure switch ..NOTHING ELSE ..works great costs about $25.00 This is my 3rd car with the 700R4 and because I am trying to glean as much space as possible, I thought I'd give the 200 a try.. Any info would be appreciated!! (manacoem)
I know there is a throtle position sesing cable that is tricky to get set right but I don't think any big deal about electronics. I have a 64 Tempist that had one in it. I don't remember funky wiring when I pulled it out, maybe just a 12V hot wire. I you don't get the answer your looking for you might check out a Grand National web site. Hope that helps. Walter
keep in mind that a th200-4r will not take any abuse or high torqueloads in its stock form. I had one in a stock monte carlo with an anemic 305 that munched the trans 5 times in the first 12k miles. The fifth time I pulled strings, called in favors and stepped on toes until the dealer replaced the trans with new assembly, at about 40k miles that one died and I had a trans shop that knew how to make them work build a trans for me that was still running strong at 190k miles when I had to sell the car. If you can find someone that can make a Th200-4r live in a Grand National you should be fine. Another tip, use synthetic fluids and the biggest cooler you can get your hands on. From what i understand the main problem with the TH200-4R is that there are no support bearings between the front pump and the driveshaft yoke, which is great for efficiency yet terrible for torque loads.
I'd have to disagree with racy a little on this one. I don't know how you went through that many 200-4R's unless something wasn't set up right to begin with. I'd bet you had a th200 metric...now those are junk. I've had a few GM cars with them and have had zero problems with them under quite a bit of abuse. They put them in the Buick Grand Nationals and those V6's put out some pretty good power. I'm sure Shifts or Squirrel will pipe in with more info on them but I'd put one in a car just as soon as I would a 700R4. Just my .02 Bill
WildWilly68 is correct, somehting was obviously not set-up correctly. They're great trannies and I prefer them over the 700R. They will take about as much abuse as any stock A/T will. They can be made as strong if not stronger than the 700R as well. You'll need to lock up 4th and that's all the electronics that are needed. Jegs sells it
I run 2004R's in many cars because they fit nice in older tranny tunnels and have a GM universal bellhousing bolt pattern. Everything you need to know is at www.bowtieoverdrives.com, I buy my trannys from monster transmission www.eatmyshift.com I have one in my '54 stude coupe project behind a 512 caddy engine.
no puters on 200r4's, it WILL go to overdrive without any electric stuff but the converter is what the wiring is for ( converter won't lock up without power) tv cable is the same as 700's (needs to be installed correctly)
Like a couple of others have said, the only electrical is for the lockup of the convertor. Just make sure that the T.V. cable is adjusted correctly. This cable is what people call the kickdown cable. This actually controls throttle valve pressure, and if not adjusted properly you will have very little transmission life.
I always find it interesting when folks say the t-200 is junk , but the 200-4r is fine. The 200-4r rear gear train is the same as a t-200 gear train. Both trannys work fine when built & set up correctly. I would suggest a dual feed for the direct clutch and new bushings if your unit needs a rebuild. Even when properly built , the tranny can take a dump just like anything mechanical.
Tell us more of this dual feed for the clutch. I have a 200-R4 on the stand and would like to make some improvements while it's out.
leave the center lip seal out of the direct clutch drum. Weld up the hole in the bolt on the center support. Make sure you plug the correct hole,, there are 2 bolts with holes in them
never again. stick shifts don't break/cost as much. I also had a monte ss. had two separate shops build trans, 7 times total and it never lived more than 2 months behind a warm 350. just junk, imho. a little cable isn't just so and the whole thing is toast. I've beat up on lots of 5 speeds with little to no damage, and i'll never go back to an automatic.
My Buick T-Type ran low 11's with a stock 200-4R, the only thing I did was wire up the lockout per Red Armstrong. They are a strong tranny and I never had a problem with mine.
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