This methode is for makin contoured pach panels using simple handtools and a sheet metal brake. I am building a new bed for my F1 and the following pictures are from some test fabrication I tried for a new rear gate. I started with drawin up the pattern lines on a sheet of 1mm panel. Did the inital folds on a brake. The folds are about 8mm high.
Found a piece of tubing with the right radius for my need (4" pipe). Placed the panel with the corner of the folds on top of the pipe.
Nice work! You've done a good job of showing a creative way to get the results you want, and that the metal will do what you want if you stay with it! John www.ghiaspecialties.com
Very good work, just goes to show,that theres always more than one way to do things.I like your post,cause it gives the average guy,with not too many tools,the insperation,to get out in the shop and start trying things,with what ever you have to work with.We cant all justify spending big bucks for tools,that we might use 4 or 5 times a year.Great results!
Great tech! I used a metal tubing "hitching post" thing in front of my buddy's shop to form the door-handle delete pannels for my '60 T-bird. For clarity, I would thik you would want a slight radius on the piece of tubing so that it doesn't puncture the pannel. It that true or is the metal pliable enough for it not to matter?
[ QUOTE ] For clarity, I would thik you would want a slight radius on the piece of tubing so that it doesn't puncture the pannel. It that true or is the metal pliable enough for it not to matter? [/ QUOTE ] Thanks all for the kind words. You have a good point. I think the key is to have enough wall thickness on the pipe. I believe the one I used was about 1/4". A radius on the pipe will in a way make it sharper/ pointier, so I think a straight cut de-burred pipe will work best.
Great job! I have some complex bends/shaping to do for some patch panels on the cowl of the roadster. Any suggestions for backyard tool equivalent of an english wheel?
Damn that is impressive how clean those radius corners turned out. I too would like to see/hear more on the slap file process.
[ QUOTE ] Could you explain the Slap? and how you use it.Thanks [/ QUOTE ] The ******* is as simple as a large metal file with one end heated and bent as a handle. The grooves in the file grips the metal. When I hit the highest spots of the warped panel that grip wont alow the panel to slide to the sides. But the force of the blow will try to flatten it anyway. Then the metal will compress, or shrink if you like. I use it together with an anvil, dolly or shot bag
Great post, though I never believed it could be turned into anything useful when I first saw them grotty looking folds I've been amazed at how 'workable' steel sheet is, since I decided to take a grinder to the top of my car. You just got to have the balls to start tapping and hammering, and see what you come up with I suppose, and look for a few pointers along the way
[ QUOTE ] Great job! I have some complex bends/shaping to do for some patch panels on the cowl of the roadster. Any suggestions for backyard tool equivalent of an english wheel? [/ QUOTE ] No easy way to subs***ute the English wheel that I know of. Shotbag and mallet works but requires some skill/ patience. I have a large tree log that is hollowed out like a bowl in one end. If I have to stretch a panel a lot in the middle I strike hard with a sledge hammer with the panel on the log.And then use a lot of time smoothing the big bump out. Practice and patience is the key, and as a added bonus you get strong arm muscles from all that hammerin.
I developed a modified vice grip for my metalshaping video that does some smoothing. Here is the album with a picture of it...i call it a smoothing clamp: http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/communityalbums.cgi?action=openalbum&albumid=9980138836765 John www.ghiaspecialties.com
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