Econoline axles... Welding/narrowing?

I was talking to someone about swapin an econoline front axle into something. He said it was possible insted of moving the brackets for the leafs in, you could take a section out of the center, an then reweld it, also narrowing the front axle. To me this screams bad idea, but I dont know much about these axles. Any thoughts on the subject?

Thanks,
Cory

 

Not a problem,as long as it is welded correctly.

 

I did it no problem. Just make sure to get a good welder to do it.

 

I was gonna do this for a project I no longer have. One HAMBer said the best way to do it is to step cut the ends to be welded back together. I just drew it up for ya. It gives a longer stronger joint.[/color]

 

Would tig be strongly recommended, or would a good mig cut it? Im decent with a mig, but there is an awful lot riding on that weld...

Also, can an econoline axle be drilled? Ive heard some of the chevy truck/can axles cant be(or shouldnt be), and wasnt sure if the econolines could be without really hurting the strength.

 

I've got an extra early Econoline axle if anyone needs it.
PM me.

 

Im all over that as long as shipping doesnt kill me. Any ideas on affordable ways to get it back to texas?

And ***uming I cant get it brought back here on the cheep... What would a econoline front end(springs, axle, spindles, most of the brakes) go for?

 

I shipped a straight axle, tie rod and a couple of shock mounting plates (all in one package) from upstate NY to Texas for $28.70 via Parcel Post just two weeks ago and that included Delivery Confirmation.
Might even be cheaper going by Fed-Ex Ground..

 

Any fool can weld an axle. The thing to remember is that when you hit a pothole and that weld lets go, and the car swerves across the centerline and wipes out a schoolbus full of conventioners, the first question asked by the lawyers, when the dust settles, is going to be "who welded that steering component?'---The second question is going to be "Yes, and you are a certified welder, right??? May we see your Welding Bureau certification please?" and the third sound will be your shrill scream as the shove it so far up your *** that you will still be paying off lawsuits when your 235 years old.

 

Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!!

But you got that **** right !

 

I narrowed one years ago,beveled the ends and welded it,then I made 2 plates out of 1/4 in steel plate that fit into the recessed part of the beam in the axle on both sides,and welded it in.It worked perfect under a big block Willys,never had a problem.I think I made the plates the entire length of the recess.

 

I have a friend who did this exact weld (as above) some 25 years ago, and it's still OK.

Cosmo

 

ther is no real stress in the middle of an axel all the stress is outside the spring pads................weld it

 

It's ok to drill big ****ing holes in an I-beam axle,
but not ok to weld one ?

Ever look at a tube axle ? The ends are welded on.
They support the weight of the front end in shear.
Welded correctly,they don't break.

Guys racing Midgets used to narrow I-beam axles,
because there was no production axles narrow enough.
They crashed a lot,bent some,never heard of one breaking.

Ever see a welding test done ?
1/2" steel plates bent 180 degrees without tearing.
I used to machine the test plates before bending,it was interesting to see what is hidden inside some welds;and be able to predict which ones would fail.

Buick320 is correct,the stresses on an axle
are concentrated outboard of the springs.

 

As far as drilling them, I hear that doesnt affect most axles, but some of the early chevy I beam axles shouldent be drilled, because that are made diffrently from the ford axles(not forged?). Is there any truth to this?

I know tube axles are welded, but I also know they are mild steel. I didnt know if the econoline axles were cast/forged/heat treated or what ever. Id rather ask a question and make sure, than end up in a ditch and hear someone say "I coulda told you that".

 

We used a stick welder. My Dad's been welding for 40+ years so it was ok with me.

 

Chevy straight axles are forged steel and can be drilled & dropped.

 

Heating, cutting and welding on any steering components is not recommended, but is done all the time. If you do not know how to weld, take it to a professional welder. Most or some will not do it because of liability reasons. Make sure the correct welding procedures and welding rods are used. Here's an Econoline axle I had shortened 5" for my 64 Fairlane

 

http://www.moparmax.com/tech/ii_1-dart-1.html

 

My father did a narrowed econo. axel in his ranchero .When it was hit in the front drivers side by a drunk driver in a pickup, it slid into a concrete water retention wall . It didnt break . But it broke the frame where the mounting tabs where welded on the drivers side. I think your safe.

 

I just read this entire article and can't stop drooling. As a slant six/A-body fan, Something like this would be a blast!

I've been a fan of Steve Magnante's writing style ever since the HRM "Bad Seed" Caddy-500 powered Chevette and "Slant Sickness" articles.

 

As a cert'd welder, I'd recommend beveling the cut to make it a V-groove weld just like the test. I would use a Multiple p*** technique with a TIG for the 1st five or so p***es. I'd then fill the rest of it in with Stick / Arc.

Stay away from using a MIG in this application unless your gonna completely over-engineer the cut with bracing plates.

The step weld mentioned above looks great, but you'd never get a full penetration. That is unless you stepped it like in the pic above but then beveled all the edges to still turn it into a V-groove multiple p*** on both sides of the axle. Carl Hagan