Have you gotten away with using a non g stamp float in a gravity feed situation? I want to stay gravity fed but I only have a couple floats and they are both pressure floats. The car doesn't run correct under load. It's a mother to diagnose not knowing if it's even possible to run right with the float issue. The motor idles and revs *****in but under load it'll pop at 35 or so kinda like a lean backfire? Back to the float situation, whatcha think?
What kind of Winfield do you have?? The type of float really shouldn't matter. Maybe the float level is too high or low? Or you have the incorrect float in the carburetor. If it is the S type Winfield, you should have a free floating round float. If it is an SR type, you should have a free floating round float with a flat bottom. By bending the br*** flapper valve you can adjust float height. If it is an SR, I would turn the knob for the pump all the way down; the diaphragm pumps do not work well. Also, one of the key elements in successful Winfield operations is that both havles of the carburetor are matching and it is not a downdraft bowl being used as an updraft or vice versa. You can tell this by the serial numbers. Both the throttle body and bowl ***emblies have different numbers. If you let me know what both sets of numbers are, I can tell you if you have a good carburetor.- GZ
Pleased to meet you I was afraid I wouldn't find any help! The carb numbers are SRBD 2439 and SRBB 2076. I did check according to my manual it is a downdraft , and I did the richening thing by turning clockwise the acc pump screw. I can pull the spring off the screw and see if I can richen it some more. Intermediate needle is at 32 clicks and high speed 34 clicks. I have played with these with little improvement. The car will still go 65 plus, and pulls harder than stock but at the middle/top ofsecond gear she falls flat on her face. Float is flat bottom sphere. In my book it says look for a g stamp on a gravity fed float, and I don't have a g. I topped of the tank for good measure.
The numbers you have indicate that is a real downdraft and the bowl and throttle body are correct for each other (a rare combination-consider yourself fortunate!) It sounds to me like you are actually too rich, not too lean. A too rich mixture can cause the car to "fall flat on its face". Get the motor nice and warm, set the throttle to a above normal idle (but not too dangerously fast), advance the spark to "driving position" (***uming you still have a manual advance) and start leaning the high speed jet out. See if this works and let us know. The other thing that comes to mind, is since you are still gravity, and since the gas tank is lower than the carb inlet, are you starving for fuel when you jump on it and it takes awhile for the gas to catch up??I understand not wanting to go to an electric pump (a whole nother topic of conversation) but how about a hand operated pressure pump? Try this: get an extra gas cap, put a threaded ****** on it, and hook it up to a bicycle tire pump. Make sure the cap seals the tank and there is no vent hole. Pump the pump when you think you need gas. This is fuel pump 101 and has been used on racecars since the invention of dirt. On a system like this, 1 lbs of pressure should be more than enough, maybe 2 lbs, but no more. If this works, you can find original old hand pumps and period correct low pressure gauges. An easy fix and much more reliable than an electric pump. And it gives your co-pilot something to do. Keep us posted!!!!!! Good Luck, GZ
Hello Guy! Glad you joined the HAMB! I'll have to look around and see if you posted the roadster photos.
Hey Bob- I posted some photos of the roadster in the "newbie" section! Hope all is well in Connecticut!- GZ
Nice looking roadster, I trust you'll only be adding gas & oil and maybe fresh tires. Old cars always look good photographed in the snow. All my car projects are moving slowly. Haven't had the '12 out in 8 years, maybe it's time for another match race.
No real difference, It does appear to be fuel pressure or running out of fuel during acceleration. I checked the float level and it appears to be just below the sight hole. Upon shaking the car no fuel poured out though. Is it worth bumping the float level up a c hair? I am used to holleys where you shake the car, some dribbles out, and you're golden. Is this old carb float level the same way? According to my book just below or just even with the btm of the sight is ok. CW Moss is closed so I can't get a new cap to try the pressure theory. The cap on the car is in no way air tight. Thanks again. JP
Hey i've had eccactly the same problem with my Model A. Your problem is probably that your carb sits so high, and it's gravety fed. You need a fuelpump. I have a Model B engine, and as soon as I added a fuelpump, the problem was solved. It's because your needle valve is probably designed to be pressurised. Try and hook up a electric fuelpump, and see if the problem is solved. Just a thought, as your problem sounds familiar. Kedde.
Check your condensor, then points plate and distributor to engine earth. Points spring tension and make sure the dissy shaft is running true and not flopping around. Always do all other tuning checks before you go for the carby. Make a temporary 1 gallon can fuel tank and hose fuel line which you can have a p***enger raise up above the stock one and/or presurise. Your temporaryu fuel line might be a problem for gravity feed, even if it isn't kinked a right angle takes flow away and a long fuel line hanging up like that can vibrate and aerate the fuel at speed. A temporary cap with a valve can be made from anything ( jam jar lid ) and sealed with some tape good enough to hold 2 lbs, but be careful you dont split the seams on your model A tank by getting too enthusiastic.
The fuel line has been replaced since the pic, it is level-half a bubble downward slope to the carb. The ignition was checked thoroughly before the manifold/carb swap to eliminate just the aforementioned glitches. It ran excellent in stock trim before the carb/manifold swap. The elevated fuel source check is a good idea and one I think easily accomplished. I'll try it. I also put 100 on an old *** hand fuel psi pump on ebay. The wife is gonna be pissed.
Float level update: Bent tang up a sixteenth and bolted it back together and didn't see a noticeable difference in float level. Tried it for grins and about the same. I think the fuel psi thing will be the hot ticket. As bad as it is with a smooth go fast foot I know it's still quicker than the stock setup.
jared fwiw, ive got a coupe with a down draft from a 6banger f-1 and it wouldnt run worth a woop till i put a pump and regulator set to 2 lbs on it. the gas needs at least a foot of head pressure to feed to carb right....al
Cool - according to my logic the old man made two different floats for good reason. Hot rodding isn't always a book science so I gave it the college try. Thanks.
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