When you guys are reffering to a vapor barrier, what exactly are you recommending???? Are you using a heavy mil plastic between the insulation and the sheetrock? or just a thin plastic???
About the t-bar ceiling... How much would someone expect to pay in supplies to put one together for a 20 by 40 shop? My garage is rafters, no insulation and studs for walls. Just put in some bay doors a few years back.
doesnt matter how you hang the drywall just stager the sheets i was goin to drywall my garage but it was cheaper to insulate then use corigated think thats right steel to cover the walls plus i figure it will keep the risk of fire down fom sparks and slag
I just closed in the 24"-0C ceiling joists in my 24X36 garage. I wound up using nominal 1-1/2" Polyisocy... foam board (R=9.) with foil on both sides and R-13 above it taking into consideration function and safety.. I also installed a Hot Air furnace donated by a friend from a double wide he remodeled. I used 5/8 FireCode behind and above it and code rated chimney . The foam falls short of standard code compliance and may cover with SR later . The garage walls are 2X4 framing 24-OC over 2 courses of block with R13 insul and covered (vertically) with 4X8 "sheathing" that my 2600 Sq' Modular home's open sides came "packaged" in for shipping. This sheathing stuff is like a stiff cardboard @3/16" with mylar surfaces. I've never seen it sold in the N.E. . (Garage is almost empty for ceiling work - never happen again!) In good weather I prefer open air under a carport:
The only other problem would be trying to get a clean ceiling to wall joint without a ripple every 4' or so where the boards meet. horizontal gives you straight clean wall spans and joints. Using 5/8" i hope for your garage? 5/8 makes for some nice straight walls too. IMHO-------
HORIZONTAL!!! Makes for a cleaner ceiling joint without the ripples every4' or so where the boards meet. And use 5/8" thick sheetrock. Trust me......
My two cents: Hanging the rock vertically in a garage with 8' ceilings cuts down on scrap and will later assist you in finding studs if you need to hand something heavy on the walls. Tape the joints and corners and apply the mud in thin, multiple layers, allowing time to dry between coats. Less is more! It will allow you to cut down on finish work. Use a wet sponge to smooth joints rather than sanding; it cuts down on dust. Ditto what others have said on the installation of a vapor barrier (usually polyethylene film; 2mil), but kraft faced insulation will do OK. Seal with primer and use a semigloss enamel (white or off white). It will improve visibility a ton. In a garage, I prefer a suspended ceiling to drywall, although either works fine. A quickie way to do the ceiling is to install the runners between the joists and lay the tile in the runners after trimming the tiles to fit.
Something is wrong here. Did he lay insulation on top of it? That should dampen noise and vibration. My buddies garage has metal, compressor (big one) is inside and there's no problem. Nice feature of steel, even though it costs more, is it's easy to install AND.....it's prepainted white. Real reflective for the lighting. The cost of paint and not having to do it again in the future is worth a bunch to me.
I always try to use waferboard instead of sheetrock, reason being you can run a screw in anywhere to hang something, insulates and sound is quieter plus its hard as hell to knock a whole in it. Another thing is if you want to wash your garage out with water then go ahead it wont hurt it at all. And in most cases its a little cheaper.
He didn't say whether he had insulation on the top, (roof side) of the metal), but the inside was bright and shiney. It was really nice to work in there, but Hell while the compressor was running. I could do that, I can relocate the compressor but it would take some compromising with the wife. I can move it into 'her' storage room and run the hoses back out to the main garage area. But back to the main issue for me - cost. THe metal is back up to around $400. I figured the drop tile ceiling with the tiles hung between the joists. That would run me about $450 with the cost of the tiles and runners. I keep coming back to OSB. Vance
i hung my 5/8 sr vertical around the wood stove and it work out good. in my barn we used 7/16 osb on the walls and ceiling. its a 32 by 40 with 11' walls and took close to 80 sheets by the time it was done. it cost just over $400 to do the whole thing(a sheet was $4.75 in the fall of '02). i love it screw any where, dosent dent, and helps deadend noise. i recomend renting a dry wall jack to do the ceiling(i did mine by my self with one in about 15 hours) and get a buddy to help put the sheets on the jack. i also used the cheap liquid nail on the trusses to help hold the osb along with the screws. dont cheap out with thiner materal because it will come back to haunt you in long run. good luck with the project. Trout
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