I'm wondering what kind of experiences some of you guys have had with using a spray-on or brush-on bedliner material (similar to Rhino-Liner) inside old steel body panels. Have you used it? What kind of results did you get? What brand of product did you use? How was it applied? Does it help to strengthen thin metal? Thanks
John I have never used it on the inside of a body ( probably would work) I have used it on the floor of a VW van that I restored for a customer (Rhino hide) It cleaned up the floor and helped deaden the sound quite a bit. I dont think it would do much to strenthen the sheet metal much (foam would probably do better)
I worked at Rhino Liner for awhile and was amazed at the amount of bare bodys that rolled in there to be sprayed. I would imagine it would hold up very well as long as you got someone that knew what they were doing to spray it, I could imagine someone sparying it to thick or misstaping it thought and it being a hassle if they dont know what they are doing. I'd stick with areas like the fire wall and floor boards if anything.
Sorry, I did not slow down long enough to understand that you were talking about body parts. That rino-lining is great for things like floor boards and the such, but it adds next to nothing to strenth.Just remember that it is a bitch to remove!!!!
On my last post I said that R.L. worked well on things like floor boards,ect. but I did't mean that it should be used on a traditional rod UNDER ANY CONDITION!!!!
I have used it in place of undercoating in quite a few of my projects. Put it over POR-15 or epoxy primer. I only used the good stuff...the 2 part systems, not a single component one, like Duplicolor, it won't dry hard enough. It looks like undercoat, but is smoother, glossier, and easier to clean. Tougher, too! Also used it on the interior of a Jeep I did for a friend, for 4 wheeling. Easy to powerwash out.
One note about Rhino Lining is highly flamable and hard to put out once it gets going. Look into Line-X or some of the other liners. From what I know its only been Rhino that lights off fairly easily.
When I replaced the floors, cab corners and cowls on my '54 Chevy truck, I Hurculined everything I though might rust again. Top and bottom of the floor, inside the cab corners and cowls. that is after I Por-15'd everything in sight. It's till holding up well. I like it. r
Yup, on my old 74 CJ-5, the PO used roofing tar on the bottom! that stuff went up in flames welding and cutting replacement panels/pieces.
Funny you say this. I saw it done to a model A a few weeks ago. Exactly what you're talking about, slathering everything inside the body, using the do it yourself roll-on kit. Once I got used to the idea, it made alot of sense, especially as rough as this particular car was originally. I won't be doing it to my car, but still interesting and helps waterproof a roadster. Probably makes the car quiet, and reduces rattles/buzzing too. Would actually make sense for a cruiser too then. Like the others say, the stuff has drawacks. But it is somewhat patchable cause of the texture. It's probably a good choice if you're starting with a car so rough that it's never going to get another resto, ever.
I used it on the underside of the floor and the insides of the fenderwells on the wayfarer. It has held up well, helps prevent the stars that stones thrown up by the tires cause and cuts down some on road noise. Of course, the inside is lined with insulation, so I don't know if makes that much of a difference on road noise, but I'm definitely glad i did it. It was applied over primer, after the outside of the fenders were painted.
Used it on the under side of the floor on my 60 wagon.It worked out good and would have been great if the guy that sprayed it wasn't a jerk. If you find someone that cares about what they are doing and knows what a quality job is you can't go wrong. Don't think I would use it on the inside of body panels. I've seen that Lizard Shin and was impressed.
Why would you do that? using it on the inside of body panels is a bad idea. Repairs would be a total bitch and it's impossible to remove... If your looking to stabilize and protect dirty metal i'd use an old oil based primer like rustoleum ruddy brown (the old fish oil recipe). Not only does it protect and stabilize well but it's easy to remove it you want to make repairs and eventually want to do it the right way. POR works awesome too but it's difficult to remove.. not half as difficult as rino lining though...
The body I'm working with is unique in the fact that it is an old stock car racer that has had the doors welded shut and a steel top weded in. It laid outside for about 30 years, so between the original "gutting" job and the elements...it's pretty rough inside. I've installed the body on a newer frame and fabricated a new roll cage and floorboards. I don't plan on having a finished interior other than the seat cover and maybe some vinyl covered pads over the door bars. I'm thinking that something like the RhinoLiner would make everything look kind of uniform inside...the rusty surfaces, the fresh sheet metal floorboards plus the black vinyl seat. Also, it might help with road noise and vibration and maybe make it feel a little less like you are riding in a metal box. Any other alternatives????
I have considered the same thing . It would make a great sound deadener and not as expensive as Dynamat or most other roll out products. Yes body work could be a bear but how much body work do most people after they are finished with their rides? I would put it in at the end of the build and go cruising. It would ad weight to your doors and make them close right in case you had lightened them up during the project. Sounds like a good idea, although I'm not too sure it would look as the primary interior. I have seen them fade almost to white over time, the roll on type that is but if you were using it in the inside of your panels they will never be seen.
Well to be quite honest ALL 2 part spray on polyeurethanes will combust at about the same temp. And we have three different lines of chemical with three different hardness ratings as well. and the hardest of them all is alot more resistant to spark type heat but offers less sound deadenind. The softer version most people are used to seeing is less resistant and provides the most deadening of the three. But yea......not in a rod . We will do the undersides of fenders to limit the damage a rock will do to the sheet metal when it comes out of your tire at 60 mph. It will crack the hell out of some paint from the bottom. So we spray them and no more chips. But rust can still grow under this stuff and when not used properly can encapsulate and encourage growth.........10cents.
If you want to strengthen thin metal then have it Flame Sprayed. Flame spray process will deposit new metal onto the old thus building up the thickness of the panel. Many magazines advertise this process and go so far as to show how broken or missing sections of sheetmetal panels can be completely reconstructed using the flame spray. Any metal that is available in wire form can be flame sprayed...I had a couple of VERY pitted DeSoto grille teeth that I had sprayed with copper to fill the pits before rechroming. FSI also has aluminum, steel, SS, copper, nickel, etc that can be sprayed. I have a couple of fenders from my 35 Chevy that have swiss cheese hole on one side from laying in the mud, these will be brought back to their original thickness by spraying new steel over the pitted areas.
Thinking about using a liner like rhino on the inside of the front walls on my car.How much does it cost and where can I buy it ? What I did was take off all the old undercoating because it was dry and cracked as well as discolored.Took it to the bare meatl by heating up the coating and scrapping it,then I hit the entire surface with a grinder and wire wheels ( coarse).It took about 3 wheels.After this I wiped and cleaned the entire area with acetone. The hand sanded it and wiped it down again. As it sits right now I hit it twice with heavy coats of primer.Going to hit it again once or twice again with the primer and then shoot the liner when I do get it.Hopefully it won't cost too much....
I'd really love to read some real world experiences wiht hot metal spraying for body work. It looks like a fantastic process but it doesn't look like it has penetrated into old car stuff at all. I think this has been mentioned before around here, but what is that stuff they put on German and high end Japanese rocker panels? It's thick and flexible, and they paint it body color so you dont notice it much. that stuff might be good, too? -90% jimmy
Ok found a dealer locally but had a question about spraying it.Does it build well in crevices ? If not maybe I could use some tar in the crevices and spray over it ? About the only other option would to be to weld the seams if the metal is not to thin in some of the areas ( inside fender wells ) and then maybe use some weld sealer what do you guys think?
We run a restoration and custom shop and we spray Rhino linings on our restoration projects within reason the one thing to remember is that Rhino doesn't like any heat past 180 but its a great sound deadner and we use it on the backs of fenders so you don't end up with a star in the paint I have never had a problem with catching any on fire i wonder is some one has pulled a bait and switch on someone here if you have any questions about Rhino linings pm me
i used gator hide,2 part like ryno,its tougher thin shit but nothing would stick to it,had to buy a special paint from the factory to get carpet glue to stick
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