Here is the sbc i am considering for my 52 chevy truck. how do you think this will run? I am not looking to build a race engine. but I would like it to have some balls when i step on it. i came into the block/rods/pistons/heads in a trade is the main reason i am going 383. Wieand stealth intake (good from idle/up and inexpensive) Edelbrock 750 carb (inexpensive and set it and forget it carb) Isky cam .425/.435 Lift - 202°/208° @ .050 (seems to be torque cam...i do not understand cam info. need to read up on it more). Trw flat top pistons .30 0ver (already have) 5.7 rods (already have) 383 crank (buying a steel one...not racing. do i need forged?) 350 block 4 bolt main (already have) 882 heads - weak I know but I have a pair with less then 1k miles on them and I am on a budget. 700r4 ****** with shift kit and 2800 stall (already have) 8.8 ford rear limited slip with 3.73 gears (already have) Going in an s10 frame with a 52 chevy body on it.
Should be a good torquey engine with a real limited top end. That cam will probably peter out around 42-4500 or so, plus the intake is only good for about 5-5200 from memory. Given the stall I'd do something a little more agressive - something like a comp cams XE268H - then go with a mid-rise intake (like a performer RPM or similar) The 882 heads aren't all that bad if set up- pop in a set of undercut stainless valves ($70 ebay), and a set of .525-.550" lift springs ($40) and PC valve stem seals then do a basic port-match to them and they'll flow OK. For rockers the cheap aluminum full rollers in the 1.6 ratio which will give a little more lift. I like to run the generic hardened pushrods for a little extra insurance and they're fairly cheap. That setup should make a good cruiser as well as throw you back in the seat when you nail it. Depending on the tire diameter you'll probably want a little more gear (4.10's with a ~28"+ tall tire) The lockup converter will help keep the heat down in the converter when cruising so you should be OK cruising at a 'lower than stall' RPM range.
thanks for the feedback. one question though. is there a cam 101 or a cam for dummies webpage/book? I would like to learn more about cams and what all the numbers mean.
I love my 383. Of course I've got a bit more in heads/piston/rod dept but am running an Isky cam and a 650 edlebrock (for right now) with a Victor Jr intake (which my bro found on the side of the road - no lie!). I think I even have the steel crank, cant think of the top of my head right now. Mine def. throws you back into the seat and I have some nice top end to catch/p*** my buds on the freeway. I think you have room to advance when your ready to or have the money.
Yea, I run 91 and have 10 to 1(11 to 1 - my mind is blank right now) compression. I'd get more preformance with the 750 BUT I ran it from Orange to Bakersfield in November and only stopped for gas one exit from the racetrack and that was because I dont trust my gas gauge. I was doing about 80 on the g****vine and on the 99 'cause I was late. I've got it in a 55 150 sedan. I can get you the parts list when I get home from work, its in my other computer.
lotus, read you post where you already have your pistons wondering if you have the ones for a 383 crank a standard 350 piston does'nt work. it will stick up past the deck[ experience]
yeah the pistons are 383 .30 over forged trw flat top pistons. the engine was built up a few years back. he ran into a problem with the crank/thrust bearing and pulled it apart and it has sat around since. You can still see cross hatches in the bores and there are no ring grooves.
Heres the basics of what I have in mine: Sorry for the all caps, copied from something else and too lazy to re-type 1970 350 BLOCK, LINE BORED AND STUDDED MAINS, BORED 60.060 AND TORQUE PLATE HONES, GM CAST 400 CRANK, SUPER LIGHT WEIGHT SRP FORGED FULL FLOATING PISTONS, BALANCED ***EMBLY, EDLEBROCK TIMING CHAIN, MELLING HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP, HAMBURGER 7 QUART OIL PAN, PRO ACTION ANGLE PLUG CYLINDER HEADS, ISKY HYDRAULIC CAM SHAFT AND LIFTERS, COMPE***ION PUSH RODS, VICTOR JR INTAKE MANIFOLD, MSD PRO BILLIT DISTRIBUTOR, EDLEBROCK 650 CARBURETOR.
I'd have to look up my cam card (and remember where my dad put it!). My bro can't remember off the top of his head. All I know is that it was one of the bigger ones for the combo he was putting together for me.
The biggers thing I noticed when going from a 350 to the 383, even with a RV cam and smog heads, was the mileage went way downhill. The extra torque should be great with that 700R4, just watch the high RPM's with the cast bottom end parts. That longer stroke may be harder on the sbc if you're not using high end parts in the rotating ***embly. I've never blown mine up, but people warn me about it all the time. With a mild cam and an OD, you'll be fine. Mine ran down the road easily with a 650CFM carb, a 3.70:1 gear, and a more radical cam, but no overdrive.
Cam 101 - try taking a look at some of the tech articles out on the cam mfgr's sites - I recall running across one a while back that seemed decnet. Ultra Basics: Lift - how much the valve comes off the seat Advertised duration - how long the valve is open - from seat to seat Duration at .050 - given the typical slow initial opening - this is really where the charge starts to flow and is probably more along the lines of what you want to use to measure duration LSA - Lobe Separation Angle - the 'spread' in degrees between peak intake and peak exhaust lift. Impacts cylinder pressure/filling/idle quality. That said - to pick a "right" cam you need to figure out the goals of the engine - in terms of cruise RPM, Idle quality, where it will make power (low, mid, high RPM), what it's intended use is (street, tow, strip, lumpy sound maker, etc.). Car weight, converter stall, exhaust setup, cylinder head and intake flow, compression ratio, bore/stroke/rod length, low/high octane pump gas vs race gas, nitrous/supercharger/turbo all can really impact the cam choice. For example - You'll see a lot of cams ground with a longer exhaust duration - that's a crutch for poor exhaust port flow or restricted exhaust. If you've got a good exhaust (headers, no cats, duals, etc.) and a good port job on the head - then this can hurt performance of that combo. PM me and I can go over specific questions on your combo (what parts you own and what you need to buy - choices are key to a balanced combo) - or send me as much info as you have and where you want the engine to perform and I can give a better recommendation.
quick search of comp cams site - all tech articles are here: http://www.compcams.com/Community/Articles/
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