Okay, instead of trying to find/replace/make all the "correct" switches on my Econo's dash... I was thinking of making them all matching toggle switches. Not asking if you like the idea or not, my question is do you have any reccomendations for good solid toggleswitch brands. There are a lot of cheepos out there with the fascination of Nitrous and hydraulics... I'd love some GOOD ones with LED ends to know what is on/off at night... any hints? Give me a link to a good supplier... I know some of you gotta know a spot.
I wouldn't sweat the LED ends. Just get regular toggles and add a small pilot light for each. With a little thinking you can add diodes and a test ****on to show if the lights are operable without energizing the circuit. (A good test for power at the switch.) Allied Electronics has a good ***ortment. I think they have a website now. Along with getting the proper amperage rating be sure and get DC rated switches. A DC circuit is harder to interupt and if you use AC switches, sooner or later they'll fail.
thanks c9... DC instead of AC, that's handy... I like the idea of the LED end light though, like these, only something less than $15 each, jeez... http://www.boatersworld.com/product/198422511.htm I will try and find Allied Electronics page, thanks again.
Napa has a great selection of switches, as they supply the emergency vehicle industry. You should get their electrical catalog and you will find a lot of different and unusal switches, most of which are lighted when powered on. the ****ster
Wonder if that's online? Next question, if I want heater on/off, lights on/off, etc... Do I need the on-none-off, on-off, on-none-on... WTF am I looking for? On/Off is the most basic right?
On/offs are known as SPST in the toggle switch world. SPST stands for Single Pole Single Throw. If you wanted to operate two circuits at the same time with one switch, but not have them paralleled you'd need a DPST - Double Pole Single Throw. If you want to operate two circuits individually with one on and the other off, you need SPDT. This style is also available with a center off position. There are also spring loaded toggles available. These are usually NO (Normally Off) switches. NC switches are Normally Closed. There are other combo's, but those are the basics. One thing I like on my 32 is that the parking/taillight toggle also energizes the headlight toggle. Then you flip the headlight toggle for headlights. And, as is obvious, if the parking/taillight toggle is flipped off the headlights go off. Sounds complicated, but it's not. Basics are, you can accomplish a lot of stuff by selecting the correct toggle. I use a pair of DTTP for my 32's turn signals. (Double Throw Triple Pole.) ****ster27's NAPA recommendation is good one. They have good quality toggles although the ones they carry are probably the most common. Allied Electronics carries all of the switches I metioned. If you live close to Wichita you may be able to find an aircraft surplus type store. I've bought some very nice pilot lights & toggles at the Burbank, California aircraft surplus stores. Seattle would be another good area for aircraft surplus stores. These places are full of goodies that are great for hot rods and have been recognized as such since WW2.
Go to one of the big truck stops on the interstate, they always have the coolest toggles for semi's, and the long ones some use for hydraulic lowriders
i have toggles in my truck, for my headlights, high and low beam, heater, wipers, all simple little chrome ones. i like the looks and makes for a easy wiring job.
..............and Greg...wire it so the toggle only operates a relay that powers up your load, whatever it is. Headlights can benefit greatly by splicing a relay into the circuit. It also takes the load off your puny toggle switch and puts it on a relay which is much better suited to switch a heavy amperage load....like headlights. And, you'll be amazed at how much brighter the lights will be using a relay. Ford starter solenoids make great relays but they're a little spendy.
The wife works for GE that's usually where my toggles come from. Of course that's no help to you. NAPA is a good source for toggles. I'm not sure that I would need some sort of a light to tell me what was on or off that's normally determined by the position of the switch.
I do lots of electrical work---DC switches are the way to go.If you have heavy loads , use relays controled by your switches.Good place to get electrical stuff---it's all I use anymore:http://www.delcity.net/
Greg, I agree with HRW, delcity sold us all of our supplies when I worked at Hot Rod Garage. Everything we ever got from them was quality stuff! and talk about selection!
12voltguy.com The one and only!!! I'll never buy switches or panels from anyone else. His work is exceptional and cheap for such high quality. Great fit, finish, and function. He'll even engrave the "Function" above each switch.
Thanks... and I was gonna get a pinstriper (not my forte) to letter the function right on the dash. Not that anyone will read it, but this might be my first "Tech" post this spring... mistakes, small fires and all.
I like the stubby or shorty chrome toggles myself. Solder your connections -- forget the crimp ****. And use relays for heavy loads. My experience has been to take the time to wire it right, and it will save you a lot of headaches down the road.
My local Ace hardware store has a marine electrical section with all kinds of robust, good quality stuff like toggle switches, fuse blocks, ignition switches, etc.
This is the first time for me to reply but here goes. I used toggles from Midstate electronic store. They were dc and worked well. One was called a progress switch which I used for the wipers just to be different.Also could be used to turn on dash lights then headlights. Flip once and the drivers side came on and again to get the other side. Also used one with a switch on one side and momentary if you flip the other way which I used for trunk lid and dome light. They had many options.
There's a company called "Carlington" and their switch's are sold thru Grainger and Newark. Forget they're 600 volt insulation cl***, use amp rating only they are cheap and reliable. I enclose my jalopy dash note asco standard acc. 6B toggle for back up lights. Spray paint the back and front with dollar a can black, glue chinese soup lids with the words for the bulbs over the bulbs, don't get paint on the bulbs.
and a suggestion from the "muscle car guy" most of the late 70's 'cuda variants had toggles for everything-and they are reasonally cheap. pretty cool lookin,too. ALOT of late dodge (haha...late) had toggles for headlights (come to think of it, they were "rocker" type-haha...rocker.) point being...go find a 4 door at the local car yard and gut the dash. better connectors. (well, marginally...it is a dodge. )
AADD Ya know I was out in the garage looking at the switches from Wilbur's '53. They are all toggles and original equipment. Of course there isn't much trad about Wilbur's '53. You do have another avenue you could break out a speed parts catalog and use the same toggles that the real race car guys use. They probably wouldn't cost you any more.
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