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Bare Metal! ? about surface rust.. how to stop it??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by desertratrodder, Mar 23, 2004.

  1. I was talking to my buddy HIGG tonight and he told me he had his 58 Ford wagon down to bare metal. Well he lives across the street from the beach and its been foggy lately. His question to me was what would you put on the bare metal to prevent surface rust from forming.
    I know paint works, but he's not ready for that yet. I told him maybe WD40 and he suggested Kerosene????????
    I know this might be a stupid question, but what do you guys use???
    Once it forms, do you have to get it all out?? I would think so but??
     
  2. Roadsters.com
    Joined: Apr 9, 2002
    Posts: 1,782

    Roadsters.com
    Member

  3. bulletproof1
    Joined: Feb 23, 2004
    Posts: 2,079

    bulletproof1
    Member
    from tulsa okla

    the gibbs sound good but what about when you try to paint the car ,how hard is it to remove ? i woundnt put wd40 even in the same room as a car thats going to get a good paint job
     
  4. I used to use DP for protecting bodies during metal work. On the last restoration I did I used a light coat of PPG self etch on the whole car for a "shop coat" While I did the metal work. It protected the metal very well, I could see and feel through it, and it came off very easy when preping for filler, and primeing. I could even use a stud welder through it. I'll do um all like this now.
     
  5. gotcha
    Joined: Feb 26, 2004
    Posts: 176

    gotcha
    Member
    from Sanger, TX

    Dupont veri prime is what I use...It too goes on thin, and is easy to work with...It stinks, but works well...

    JP
     
  6. Roadsters.com
    Joined: Apr 9, 2002
    Posts: 1,782

    Roadsters.com
    Member

    Quoting from the label on a can of Gibbs Brand:

    "After wiping, you can paint right over it."

    I haven't painted over it yet. But if their claim wasn't true, think of the liability issues they'd be leaving themselves open to.

    Read the Web page about Gibbs that I provided the link to in the second post on this thread. The stuff is phenomenal.

    Dave
    http://www.roadsters.com/
     
  7. cheaterslick
    Joined: Nov 2, 2003
    Posts: 807

    cheaterslick
    Member

    I just got in from priming a friend's car in his garage. He had it walnut-shell blasted, rented a gas-motor air compressor for the day and stapled plastic to the wall. I ran an inline water trap and used RM brand EP589, an epoxy etch primer that is a great foundation for almost any brand filler/primer/paint. It uses no reducer and I added a touch more activator due to the evening temperature. Took about an hour to spray a half gallon and cost alltogether less than $300 CDN. Not including my beer damage.
     
  8. I use Glad Press N Seal plastic wrap. I can throw a rock into salt water from my garage and I tend to keep the doors open while sanding. The plastic wrap works great and is easy to remove.
     
  9. JimC
    Joined: Dec 13, 2002
    Posts: 2,243

    JimC
    Member
    from W.C.,Mo.

    There is a product, "Pre Wash" that you mix with warm water, then wash the bare surface.
    It is available from the Eastwood Company, and probably from better paint supply stores.
    There are rust inhibitors that prevent rust for appearing for up to three months.
    DO NOT put WD $) or any silicone spray on any car surface, including bare metal.

    If you have used WD40 or suspect that it has been applied, then use fish eye eliminator in your paint.

    Jim
     

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