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235 I6 Ignition HELP Please!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by fishslayer82, Feb 26, 2007.

  1. fishslayer82
    Joined: Jul 21, 2006
    Posts: 357

    fishslayer82
    Member

    I'm about to through a wrench through the garage wall. A couple of weeks ago the seam down the middle of my '52 Chevy hood was MIG welded together (thanks, GMgrunt and Kustombuilder). After it was done I couldnt get my car to start. Trailered it home charged battery and still will not start. Today I replaced the points (gaped correctly), condensor, and coil wire to the distributer. Has a new coil, battery, plugs, wires. Car cranks good, but I get an inconsistant spark at the points. Its probably an easy fix, but I cant seem to pin down whats wrong. :confused:
    Thanks in advance for any help.
     
  2. 49 Fastback
    Joined: Jun 24, 2005
    Posts: 500

    49 Fastback
    Member
    from Ohio

    Did you disconnect your battery when you were welding?
     
  3. fishslayer82
    Joined: Jul 21, 2006
    Posts: 357

    fishslayer82
    Member

    No, I know its one of those should've things. The battery is holding a charge though.

    Also, I forgot to add we sandblasted the seam before welding. Covered up the air cleaner
     
  4. Big Pete
    Joined: Aug 7, 2005
    Posts: 364

    Big Pete
    Member

    As long as the engine wasn't running while you sandblasted that's not the cause of your troubles. Inconsistant spark? New points cap etc?
    Maybe the welder caused an induced path electrically which burned something funny? Jump neg. to the frame of the distributor if that's not the cure then jump pos. to the switched ignition leg see if the spark suddenly becomes real hot and consistant. If the jumper wires get real hot and that's consistant then the coil is hurt or the capactior and points are nfg or not ***embled correctly.
     
  5. fishslayer82
    Joined: Jul 21, 2006
    Posts: 357

    fishslayer82
    Member

    Jump neg. to the frame of the distributor if that's not the cure then jump pos. to the switched ignition leg see if the spark suddenly becomes real hot and consistant. If the jumper wires get real hot and that's consistant then the coil is hurt or the capactior and points are nfg or not ***embled correctly.[/quote]

    Thanks Big Pete. What do you mean by switched ignition leg. THe wire from my ignition in the car? Could I possibly go from the Battery straight to the coil using jumpers, pos to pos, neg to neg?
     

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