Is there anybody out there that has bagged one of these things. I finished the rear, works great if I say so myself,and now I'm moving to the front. I've got it disassembled and ready to start adding my plates and cutting my cups but could use some insight, comments, opinions,suggestions on cup sizes,where to move the shocks if I should move the shocks, what sizes shocks, common mistakes to avoid and so on. The bags compressed are 3" , we are running stock spindles for money reason(as always),Pics are always appriciated,and respected (Beein's I ams from Caintuckee and such, reedin'and riitin's aints my goodest skialls). And a big thanks to everyone who helped me on my search for model A parts(still need some more). Thanks,Ryan
I've never put bags on a 66 pickup, but I did a setup on a 64 and 70 caddy. One good piece of advice I can give when installing bags on the front is to make absolutely sure as the suspension travels, the bags won't come in contact with the frame. It sounds pretty basic, but on an ifs front end the bags seemed to act different in front then on the rear because of how the suspension traveled. When cutting the cups, I removed the coil spring and loosly reassembled the control arms. Then I jacked the lower control arm all the way up and measured the distance from the lower control arm to the top of the spring pocket in the frame. Then subtract the height of the collapsed bag and that will give you the size cup you should need. I'm not claiming to know everything or the best way to do it, but thats what worked for me on my setups.
Front is simple, relocate the shocks to the side of the lower control arm by notching the lip and drilling a hole, add new upper shock mount on frame. Can't remember cup size, but it's easy to figure out.
I think those are about the same as my 79 chevy.I tried using cups,but wasn't happy with them.I ended up making a plate that bolted to the upper spring pocket(crossmember),which the top of the bag bolted directly on.I just used the holes on the cup for a pattern,so I could cut the right holes in the plate,for airline and bolt holes.First I drilled a hole in the side of the crossmember,so I could run my airline, don't forget the rubber grommet.Mounted the bag to the plate,hooked up the airline,bolted the plate to the crossmember.The top was done,now for the bottom.On the lower control arm I made a piece to fill the hole at the bottom of the spring pocket,welded it in,drilled a hole in the center of it,and mounted the bag directly in the lower control arm pocket.Yea it was sitting in the pocket,and it touched around the bottom of the bag and the lower control arm,but the spring pocket is rounded and smooth,so it didn't rub,since it is bolted to it.I used that set up fot 3 years,and drove it all over,worked great.Later I Z'd the frame in the front,couldn't ever get it low enough Then I sold it
i used suicidedoors.com brackets on my 67 C-10. they are cheap enough it wasnt worth the hassle making my own(IMHO). the top is just a plate that blocks off the spring pocket and just bolts to the crossmember and the bottom is a floating cup. you dont have to relocate the shocks. do make sure to cut off the bump stop/stering stop that is spot welded to the lower A arm. just be sure the bag has NOTHING to rub on. also always use gromets where ever your air line passed through metal. heat and sharp objects are your enemy!
I used a suicide doors set-up on my 67Chevy pick-up too. It was quite easy, only needed to drill a few holes. Check out suicidedoors.com. It was far easier than trying to build my own. Make sure nothing rubs the bags, like lowlincoln said. Grommets through the holes. I also put heater hose over the airline in spots where the airline might rub on the chassis. Red
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