Whats a 1932 "B" engine worth"

My buddie has a 1932 model B engine I want to buy for my A, but neither he nor I know what it is worth...any ideas? Beings he's my friend, I am not looking to pull one over on him, and am looking for an honest quess thats fair to both of us. It is a long block, just the block, head, internals, and an oil pan (finned aluminum!!) Nothing else. It looks really clean inside, was suppost to have run when pulled and has sat in his shop ever since.
So, any ideas for me???

 

Does it have the Coutner Balanced Crank?
Here is some good info.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161159

 

I have no idea about the crank...I ***umed all 32's were counter-balanced?

 

No, actually, most (if not all) '32 engines did not have a counterbalanced crankshaft.

 

$150.

 

The only way to tell if you have the counter-balanced crankshaft is to pull the oil pan and see!
The counter-balanced crank engines were 34s, not 32-33. The counter-balanced crank will double the value of the engine.
BUT, it would be nice to know how much the crank has been turned or if it is stock standard measurements.
As a pig-in-a-poke deal $150 would be fair enough.

 

It's worth what you're willing to pay and he's willing to accept.

 

Thanks guys...I was kinnda thinking 150-200...so I guess we'll go from there. Anyone klnow anything about the finned aluminum pan? Aftermarket???

 

The finned aluminum pan sounds really cool. It could be worth more than the whole engine itself! If the pan is not off, you can actually pull the oil fill tube out of the side of the block and you can see or feel what kind of crankshaft it has. (You might have to turn the engine over a few times to do this). There were three different cranks used in a Model B engine: non-counterbalanced (looks like a Model A), swedged counterbalances (seperate counterbalances that were swedged (forced onto) the standard crank. They over lap the journals, and the counterbalanced crank (most desirable). The swedged counterbalance crank is a good item if it does not need to be turned down, but you cannot grind the journals with the counterbalances on because they will block access to the journals. I do not think they can be removed or installed without alot of skilled work. The main weakness of a Model B block the the tendency for cracking in between valve seats and from the valve seats to the cylinder bores. Check this area real carefully-probably 80% of B blocks have this issue-especially if they have been bored out. It would be great to see a picture of the aluminum pan. Do you know if the pan is made for an A bellhousing/transmission or a 1932/later bellhousing and transmission?- GZ
"Four Ever Four Cylinder"

 

Thanks for the info GZ. I will check it out a little further next weekend. To be honest, I do not know how to tell if it is a "A" pan or "B" pan...is there an easy way to tell? There was a flywheel on it...and it looked really thick like an A flywheel...don't know if that means anything or not. (I don't know didly about 32-34 4 cylinders)

 

Rutherford pan, only one I know of, fits B engine/A bell, 7 or 8 hundred in repro...probably a real old one would be much more!
Solid, rotating B with head off, pan off, mebbe 500 if no visible evidence of cracks or disasters...UP with real inspection p***, good mains or recent overhaul, etc., UP more if weighted crank, way down if cracks, up for mods to oil system, up for diamond casting...

 

Thanks Bruce...whats a Diamond casting?

 

Search Coaltown kid's recent posts--shows diamond mark. Likely no benefit, but adds value and cl*** llike getting a 4 bolt Chevy block...

 

Thanks Bruce
Chris