I read through all the threads I could find and couldn't find an answer to my question. Is it possible to use the electrolysis method with the liquid continously running out of a hose. Say I have a big area to de-rust that isn't accessible by sanding would I be able to hook up the hose with a charge and the liquid pouring on to part and anode. like this.
It need to remain submerged, the anode breaks down and is suspended in the liquid until it lands on the cathode.
I would guess for your application acid might be a better choice than electrolysis. As porkn****** mentioned, the water is just a medium to allow transfer of material to the cathode. Water from a hose is not a good conductor (see mythbusters peeing on a train rail episode), and typically when you apply power to a solution, it degases to become a more effective conductor. If the water is always fresh, it doesn't have time to degas. However, if the rusty item was sitting in the solution, and you pumped the solution back over it constantly like a parts washer, there is a higher chance of success. What are you trying to clean? good luck!
The ions have to be able to move from one pole to the other -- the flow of water would slow/stop that movement. How big a part are you looking at? Too big for a kiddie wading pool? Could you build a three-sided "tank" and glue it to the side of the part with silicone? fill with solution and zap away?
ARGH!!! There was this stuff that came concentrated in a bucket that you could use with a sump pump and a hose to clean rusty parts. I know someone here has seen it. I thought I had it saved in my favorites, but I can't find it. Showed a guy making a 'tank' out of some PVC tubing and a blue tarp and had it under a lift using it to 'wash' the rust off a late 70's T-bird.
Its large and not actually a part that can be removed I want the rust out of the area between the wheel housing and quarter panel on my cutl*** and its hard to see and get at it. if I were to put it in a tank I would have to get the whole body halfway into the tank when the area of concern is just around the wheel housing area. I figured my idea would work since I though the powder is charged enough when it comes out of a gun when poweder coating but I may be wrong. the solution would most likely be recirculated and the stream would be heavy enough to submerge the area and anode. this may not work since the water might need to be standing and not being poured.
Just to clear up comments about the solution "standing". Agitating the solution usually improves it's performance when used in a tank, use a mixing prop or an air bubbler like a fish tank. Some movement in the solution helps free particles from the surface and carry them across the cathode/anode gap. However, flowing water from a hose or spigot- IE free falling water tends to seperate and be a poor conductor. Acid still seems like a better answer than electrolysis to me. And recirculating a mild acid solution over the area is very feasible with a parts washer pump. I don't know this for a fact, but any rust eater that says enviro in the name is likely a citric acid of some type. There are some wicked citric acids out there, nothing like you'd ***ociate with oranges and lemons, other than the smell. Keep us posted with some before and after pics. Good Luck!
I believe that stuff that 1320stang is thinking of is "evaporust". I've used a small amount to clean rusty bolts with good results. The stuff is expensive so be sure to get all the loose rust off the part before using evaporust. I haven't used it on any large pieces
One of the Powerblock shows the other day was using some kind of paint (I think) that they said you could spray over light rust and it actually inhibits the rust by starving it. Has anyone heard of this stuff?
I use ospo you can get at any hardwear store ,it ia clear and put some in a spray bottle and spray away let set and paint ,it turns rust back to steel i have uesd it a lot alleyoop aka alley
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