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brakes lockin up

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by joeks, Mar 11, 2007.

  1. joeks
    Joined: Dec 25, 2006
    Posts: 145

    joeks
    Member

    i am running disk/drum setup and the back has started locking up on me. the first time it happened was on the highway at 60 mph :eek: and now they lock up with hardly any pressure. i replaced the wheel cylinders and bled the system just in case but they still lock up. am i correct in thinking it is the proportioning valve? if so can it be cleaned and reused or do i need to suck it up and get another one?
     
  2. Sincity57
    Joined: Jan 14, 2007
    Posts: 123

    Sincity57
    Member
    from Austin

    Sounds like you're sending to much fluid to the rear. This would be the proportioning valve. If its adjustable, you can just decrease the flow to the to the rear. You can buy valves already set up for your app., or you can buy adjustable ones.
     
  3. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

  4. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton
    Member

    Is this a new brake system or something that has thousands of proven miles?

    If it is new, what was changed.
     
  5. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,040

    chaddilac
    Member

    My pop's shop truck which I almost burnt down cause the brake stuck, had the same problem on the front... went through and complete rebuilt the brake with brand new parts, rotors and all... Still locked up on him... Figured out it was a bad brake line, must have had a small flap of rubber inside that when pressed would energize the break and at let off the flap would catch and keep the brake engaged.
     
  6. kwiksilver
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 279

    kwiksilver
    Member

    Are the short shoes in the front? (if they are different).
     
  7. Royalshifter
    Joined: May 29, 2005
    Posts: 15,655

    Royalshifter
    Moderator
    from California

    Make sure you have about 1/8 play between the the rod and the master before it plunges or it will not let the fluid retract. In other words do not let the pedal rest against the plunger in the master.
     
  8. brewsir
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 3,278

    brewsir
    Member

    how old is the rubber brake hose? They swell over time and act like a check valve holding pressure on the shoes,building up heat and eventually locking up the brakes.
    Also I have had a similar problem on a bike. The hard line had gotten pinched a little...it was enough that after riding 10 or 15 miles the rear caliper would lock.
     
  9. joeks
    Joined: Dec 25, 2006
    Posts: 145

    joeks
    Member

    ive taken a look at all the stuff u guys suggested and its still goin on, so i guess its off to the junk yard, any particular prop. valve i should be looking for? its on a 50 chevy truck with disks up front and drums in the rear
     
  10. BE CAREFUL with your brakes. Don't take chances with junkyard parts.

    I had a similar problem on a disk/disk setup. Brakes would lock up after about 10 mins or so and stay locked for a while. As chaddilac and brewsir mentioned the bad rubber hose is a likely suspect. I replaced proportion valve - same problem. I pulled 15in of vacuum on line going to rear brakes and opened connections until I found the problem - bad rubber hose.

    These guys know brakes -
    www.mpbrakes.com
    or these
    www.inlinetube.com/pro_valves.htm
    Good luck, please let us know what you found.
     
  11. easy j
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 21

    easy j
    Member

    i had that problem once kept bleeding the brakes and replacing the wheel cylinders come to find out i had a broken caliper bolt that would put the caliper at an angle with any brake pressure might be the problem eventhough its not a common problem
     
  12. joeks
    Joined: Dec 25, 2006
    Posts: 145

    joeks
    Member

    can a rubber hose still be the problem if there is only hard line running to the drums? it would be easier if this was the case, but i dont want to go messin with the front brakes if i dont have to
     
  13. old dirt tracker
    Joined: Sep 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,003

    old dirt tracker
    Member
    from phoenix

    actually junkyard parts that come off wrecked cars were working the day the car was wrecked. beware of backyard abandon cars. they were parked because something was broken. i would suspect the m/c my self.
     
  14. rodknocker
    Joined: Jan 31, 2006
    Posts: 2,265

    rodknocker

    make sure your rear brake lines aren't near any heat sources,this causes the fuild to boil and apply pressure
     
  15. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,775

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    Of course a bad brake hose can be at fault on a rearend. You do have a hose there don't you? All cars have at least three brake hoses, one to each front caliper or wheel cylinder and one to the junction block on the rearend, or four, same in front but 2 in back, one going to each wheel cylinder.

    There are a few NEVERS when building a brake system:
    1. Never use "used" brake hoses.
    2. Never use rebuilt master cylinders.
    3. Never reuse old brake pipe(steel lines).
    4. Never think it's good enough when something is wrong and you know it.
    5. Never forget to test that system before hitting the streets. If you don't care about yourself and your passenger/s, at least give a little thought to the rest of the world out there.
    6.
     
  16. joeks
    Joined: Dec 25, 2006
    Posts: 145

    joeks
    Member

    well i think i fixed the problem, i replaced the m/c and all the hoses and that seems to have done it. u guys once again proved why this place kicks ass, i appreciate all the help.
     

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