i have a rigid flaring tool, and it worked awesome for my brake lines. i cant remember the part number, but check home depot in the plumbing section, it is about $45. as far as bending, i used a small blue point tubing bender (and an empty beer bottle works fine too!) and just took my time. make sure you put the tubing nut on the tube BEFORE you flare it.......sounds stupid, but i'm sure i'm not the only one who has messed this up a few times. or, maybe i'm just an idiot! also deburr your ends very well, it makes a cleaner therefore better sealing flare. good luck, and take your time, it can be discouraging, but make it fun!
No doubt in my mind ... the best ... not cheap ( about $275 ) but works great ... Makes all 4 types of flares ... Available off eBay for less than $275 ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAST...091164750QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item170091164750 They also make great tubing benders ... I suggest using 3/8 tubing from Car Quest for fuel lines . Straight sections come in various lengths. Car Quest has 72 inch long pieces. MY NAPA only has 60 inch long pieces. I always use the GM frame mounted fuel filter so with two 72 inch sticks ... I can get from the tank to the fuel pump with only the fuel filter as the connecting point.
Autozone offers a flaring tool set and they have benders suitable. My total cost was about $30 but I got a flaring tool set that had been loaned out. Help = don't forget when you are bending that there is "take up" in the bend. I guess what i'm trying to say is that all pipes have a pipe length requirement for a bend. For example, 1/2" pipe loses 4" or something like that. Find an appropriate table and take those figures into account so you don't have to cut both ends and lose pipe.
Remember brake and fuel lines should be double flared. I have the little eastwood bending tool that is nice when doing brake lines under the car. I also have 2 other benders for doing fuel lines. As far as the double flare tool kit seems like there is only 1 cheap 1 and if you look around you can buy it at a reasonable price. For some reason "cheap" tools seem more expensive in the US than Canada.
I agree with rigid, I have their benders, and flare tools for both single and double flare. what material are you using? stainless or mild steel?
I have do a rigid 845 flaring tool but I do not have the adapters for double flaring. I am not sure what tubing material to use yet for my brake and fuel lines (tank to fuel pump). Any recommendations?
Master cool makes the best flare tool, period. I did Firedomes entire truck with one yesterday, and didn't cuss once. they take a couple of flares to get used to - but the process, while having more steps to it, is far simpler. as far as benders are concerned, I use the "ol nylon special" I got it from Snap on or Matco years ago, and apparently, it came from Robinair. for cutting, I use the imperial "imp" mini cutter. it is much more versatile than the standard size cutter, simply because you can use it with one hand, and fit it in tight spots. the only down side to any of the above is this- the flare tool requires at least 2 inches of straight tubing to make it work, so don't pitch your old manual flare tool- you might need it every once and a while. (very rarely, though. I have used mine twice since I got the mastercool, and both times it was to repair the very end of a line instead of replace it.)
what are you running for motor? fuel pump? I typically use 3/8 aluminum for anything under 400 cubic inches, 1/2 for anything over. 3/16 steel line for the front half of the braking system, 1/4 to the rear hose, and 3/16 out to the rear wheel cylinders. I like the stuff that comes in a roll from speedway- it is really forgiving.
yep. it is also more fatigue prone...but nothing looks better than stainless. it's also harder to bend due to the "grain" if you do it wrong, it looks like kaka. if you do it right, it will outlast you and probably the car. not to mention internal moisture resistance-no such thing as a rusty stainless line.
Also....debur the line after cutting and before flaring.......I use a small, fine file..... After installing nut and flaring the tube, tape the nut to the end, so it doesn't move down the line before bending.....I've bent a few lines and then after the fact had to straighen 'em back out, as the tube nut was on the wrong side of the bend.....DOH!
Here is some good information on brake lines: http://www.cl***ictrucks.com/tech/0501cl_brake_line_basics/ I've tried alot of benders and this is the one that I have had the best luck with and get the best quality of bend - line it up and bend to the right angle. The bender that was used in the article is an "Imperial Eastman" I believe that it is this one: https://www.flowline.net/default.aspx?page=item%20detail&itemcode=364-FH-03 Which if it is I got royally SCREWED when I bought mine. I couldn't find it anywhere on the net - so I called Walton and they sold me one for $85 or something like that. The problem with it is that it only does 1 size - so you would have to buy a 5/16" one for the fuel lines. once you get the hang of it, it works well. When I did my lines - I had to make some really tight bends right @ the end of the line - so I took the "hook" off the bender and "zip-tied" the fitting to the bender handle to get a closer bend. Even though I got screwed on the price - it is worth the $40 or so that it seems to be going for now (I bought mine probably 2 years ago)
I agree. I also found out the hard way if you try to make the flare too big, you will split the tubing. I used straight lengths to make my lines. I used a piece of #12 solid wire to make a template, then just followed it right along the tubing to get the bends just right. Take your time and it'll look real clean.
I bought a bender from the snapon guy works good but is confusing how to work it. its like this weard contraption. has a handle that changes positions so you can get into tight places. I recomend a 180 degree bender.
I have heard that you should not use a tubing cutter (the type that you spin around, and tighten) as it causes metal fatigue. The source I got this from, a magazine, suggested using a cut off wheel instead. Comments? Tucker
Here is the flaring tool I have. It ROCKS. The brake line is also fantastic. TED is a good guy http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=flaring%20tools
I don't know about the metal fatigue issue, but to get a nice clean flare on a tube end, you need a good 90 degree cut. The tubing cutters make that just about fool proof. I'm not sure how easy that would be with a cut-off wheel.
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