I'm reducing the spring pack on my F-1 to soften the ride and thought I might get it a little lower by flipping the rear shackles. Is this a good idea or should I leave it be? I know I can reverse the spring eyes but I'm to cheap to pay to have it done and don't really want to do it myself.
Have you flipped the axle (axle above leaf springs), if you have, and also want to flip the shackles, unless you have a c notch it will start to hit the frame. I would suggest moving the axle to the top of the leaf springs. thats what i did on my F100... it was pretty low.
I had to move my shock mounts when I did mine. But, that was the only thing that I didn't expect to have to do. Cory
I have a 51 F1 and theres no room to put the axle on top of the springs. It looks like there would be an inch of clearance. My springs have sagged some but not that much. IM going to replace them with 60's Mustang springs and a Mustang rear.
I guess flipping the axle on top of the springs would be the simplest way to go. I've got a 9" I'm getting ready to install.
Anyone use the No Limit rear leaf kit? it has repositioned mounts and softer springs, I've got stock setup now and I'm debating what to do, (and still have a reasonable bed floor)
My 51 F-1 has axle over spring, and reversed spring eyes. I "Cd" the frame, as a "C" notch isn't enough. Had to raise the bottom of the bed about 5 inches. But it sits very low. P S.. You CAN'T flip the shackles on a stock F-1. I was just under mine to check.............OLDBEET
On the f-1's there's no room over the leaf spring for the axle without a notch. You should be able to get about 4" by removing leaves though.
You can buy shackles and perches from a 4wd shop pretty cheap. IM putting a ford 8" under mine with the mustang springs and cutting off the old spring mounts. IM then going to use angle iron and move the edge as close up tot he top of the frame as I can to help lower it more and then go from there. If you shop around look at the jeep spring perches and mustang shackles its all after market and cheaper than speedway sells stuff for.
I may just leave it at removing a few leaves. I don't care to go superlow but thought a 4 or 5 inch drop might be good. I had thought I might could switch the rear hangers side to side and flip them and still leave the axle under the springs to get a little extra drop.
I looked at a 48 F1 over the weekend with the following rear end mods: The rivets holding the rear spring hanger to the frame were drilled out and the castings were flipped 180 degrees and bolted back on. The shackles pointed up and back. It had the main leaf and three additional leafs on both sides. The axle was below the spring. There was a 1" spacer (rasing block) between the spring and the axle. It looked like 4" +/- of clearance between the axle and frame. This truck gets driven a lot and so far as I know the owner is satisfied.
We took 5 leaves out of the stock pack, flipped the rear axle, and c-notched the frame. Moved the shock mounts and added a little extra bracing. Drove it to the Hunnert and never came close to hitting the frame.. It a 49' by the way.......
Everything on mine was in pretty poor shape, so.........I used a Ch***is Engineering kit. It was easy and lowered the back about 4". Not slammed but gave me about 7" ground clearance at the front of the running boards on a mild rake.
If you need a quick extra inch or so out back you can do what I did here. Simply drill out the 4 rivets (each side) on the rear most spring hangers. Raise the hanger up the inch or so it takes, so the bottom 2 holes on the hanger use the top 2 holes in the frame. Bolt together using grade 8 bolts. Then take some angle iron, weld it to top of the frame, and drill the two holes for the top 2 holes on the hanger. Secure with 2 grade 8's.(couldn't find picture of this)
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